Fitting Hope brakes on my e-Sommet

[Riksbar]

Had anyone swapped the rear brake on their e-Sommet? I have a set of Hope tech V4s and whilst the front brake is a straight forward swap the rear looks like it needs the hoses removing at a minimum.

Has anyone else done this and am I better off dropping the motor out as well? How easy is it to feed the new hose through the frame? My plan is to detach the hose for the Guide at the calliper, detach the hose for the Hope at the lever and fasten the new hose to the old one then pull it through that way. Any obvious flaws to this plan?

Thanks in advance

 

[Lawson]

Just drop the motor and route it through

 

[R120]

Yes you will need to drop the motor, and in order to do this and access all the bolts on the drive side its likely you will need to remove the chainring or spider too. Its not too much off a faff, and gives you chance to tidy up the other cabling too.

 

[Riksbar]

Wow, that was a mission. I dropped the motor but feeding the hose through was a pain. For future reference disconnect the caliper and feed it from above. I made a small plastic tool to go into the hose exit hole on the chain stay to guide the hose up to connect it. Just waiting for a bleed kit to arrive to finish the set up. Quite surprised at the gravel and twigs in under the plastic guard on the non drive side of the motor. Took the opportunity to foam the top of the motor and the hell-hole with the cables. Also put some water repellent spray I had for car upholstery onto the foam to help keep the muck off.

 

[Riksbar]

The small piece of plastic cut from a yoghurt pot, then put through the chainstay hose exit hole to guide the hose out.

I will be selling these for only £49.99 plus postage.???

 

[KarlosBoro]

Yes you will need to drop the motor, and in order to do this and access all the bolts on the drive side its likely you will need to remove the chainring or spider too. Its not too much off a faff, and gives you chance to tidy up the other cabling too.

How do you drop the motor, im having this problem with feeding braided hoses

 

[Gary]

The motor is held in place by 6x t40 Torx bolts. (in reality you only need to remove 4 and can leave two in and the motor hanging from them)
if you remove your chainring from the spider and losen the chainguide bolts you should be able to move it out the way to reach that one bolt behind the spider without the need to remove your cranks or spider. It's fiddly but negates the need for the shimano STEPS lockring tool

 

[KarlosBoro]

The motor is held in place by 6x t40 Torx bolts. (in reality you only need to remove 4 and can leave two in and the motor hanging from them)
if you remove your chainring from the spider and losen the chainguide bolts you should be able to move it out the way to reach that one bolt behind the spider without the need to remove your cranks or spider. It's fiddly but negates the need for the shimano STEPS lockring tool

I'm guessing I can leave the 2 bolts in that are next to where the bash guard comes back

 

[Gary]

a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words..

Yes. remove the plastic skid plate first
I'd remove the connector bay casing (3x cross head screws) and unplug the connectors too but you don't have to

 

[KarlosBoro]

a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words..

Yes. remove the plastic skid plate first
I'd remove the connector bay casing (3x cross head screws) and unplug the connectors too but you don't have to

This helps massively
Thanks boss