Cranks for EP8 motor

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Well that’s why the cranks are failing!! The E8000 cranks Do NOT fit the EP8 motor, so if Shimano know you can’t just bung them on the new motor, it would explain why your having massive failure with your cranks as they are NOT compatible
 
Shjay said:
Well that’s why the cranks are failing!! The E8000 cranks Do NOT fit the EP8 motor, so if Shimano know you can’t just bung them on the new motor, it would explain why your having massive failure with your cranks as they are NOT compatible
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Shjay,
The crank arms themselves are the same. When they are installed on E7000 or E8000 motors, a spacer is used to achieve correct spacing and preload. The arms themselves are the same. The assembly as a whole is not. Have a look here to see how the configs are different: https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058908731-Shimano-alloy-E-spec-Crank-Manual-
 
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TSB 157 leaves out one of the most critical requirements. Frequency!!!!
I’m assuming that checking this once for a hairline crack is not sufficient. Are the expectations for riders to check on the spindle conditions prior to every ride? How about during the ride as well, may be after a DH run or intense climbs, we should take the crank assembly apart on the trail? Ethirteen should share the data that supports their testing, and if tested to failure after have many use cycles?
None of us want to end up like Laurent Fignon…
 
I don't understand why people try to blame shimano for the issues that the bike manufacturer has caused by choosing to use 3rd party crank arms.
 
I managed to remove my e13 cranks this afternoon and inspect the axle ends on my ep8 motor. Both ends appear to have the beginnings of hairline fractures visible on the inside emanating from the small hole. I will be contacting the shop tomorrow to see what their response is. Ffs 😑

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DarrenCC said:
I managed to remove my e13 cranks this afternoon and inspect the axle ends on my ep8 motor. Both ends appear to have the beginnings of hairline fractures visible on the inside emanating from the small hole. I will be contacting the shop tomorrow to see what their response is. Ffs 😑

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View attachment 84361
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Sorry to hear/see that. It makes me feel better about going for Shimano cranks, but I'll have to inspect mine to make sure no issues have started. It looks from your profile that you have a Rise. How old is it?
 
Richridesmtb said:
Sorry to hear/see that. It makes me feel better about going for Shimano cranks, but I'll have to inspect mine to make sure no issues have started. It looks from your profile that you have a Rise. How old is it?
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I bought it last May. I got the all clear on the motor axle today from the shop mechanic so I can keep riding. At least if anything goes wrong in future I will have this assessment on record. I may well change the cranks myself at some point. It’s a shame, I have nothing against the e13 cranks (other than one falling off last year), but after Shimano’s statement that only Shimano cranks should be used with their (Ep8) motor, it’s shaken my trust in them upholding a future warranty issue
 
Hello everyone!

So what size of Shimano crank is the recommended for a Large Orbea 165mm or 170mm?
and is there a preferred model? (FC-EM900, FC-M8150 or FC-EM600)

Thanks
 
FreeFly787 said:
Hello everyone!

So what size of Shimano crank is the recommended for a Large Orbea 165mm or 170mm?
and is there a preferred model? (FC-EM900, FC-M8150 or FC-EM600)

Thanks
Click to expand...
I think the bikes come with a 165mm crank, I can check tomorrow. If you scroll up, someone posted a link to a Shimano ep8 compatibility list
 
Upon removal of the E13 crank arms for an inspection and removal of the inner seal ring and reinstallation with new loctight according to the latest specs on an Orbea Rise with EP8, It seemed as if the left crank arm in particular pinch bolts would not attain 14NM. With meticulous increasing the torque back and forth from one of the two bolts to the other, in the end, neither one would ever click the torque wrench at 14NM and after approaching the torque on one side and then going back to the other, it noticeably would move slightly again and neither one would ever click the new spec of 14. We also replaced the chain and cassette and will be taking the cranks off again to replace the chainring once we get an EP8 chainring nut socket at which point the owner would prefer to replace the crank arms with Shimano if we can find a set in the USA or UK for easier shipping to receive them before an upcoming out of town trip. Does anyone know of any in stock availability of 165 or 170 EP8 crank arms from either manufacturer?
 
I ordered and received the Shimano m8150 crank arms, still have some questions about installation.

On the shimano Instructions:
1. Picture (2) shows the wide spline of the crank arm (opposite to the crank's clamping screws) goes to the wide part "spline" of the crank axle (opposite to the hole)

2. the Stopper plate pin goes thru the hole of the crank axle?

3. The complete picture is a bit confusing cause the hole is upwards and the crank arm is upward, but that way the pin of the stopper plate would not engage in the hole of the crank axle.

Please help!!!

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Why you're confused is because there are two wide parts. Those cranks can only go on one way... The Japanese don't make instructions for dumb dumbs like is lol
 
DarrenCC said:
I managed to remove my e13 cranks this afternoon and inspect the axle ends on my ep8 motor. Both ends appear to have the beginnings of hairline fractures visible on the inside emanating from the small hole. I will be contacting the shop tomorrow to see what their response is. Ffs 😑

View attachment 84360

View attachment 84361
Click to expand...
Got to change my crank arms yesterday for Shimano M8150, and upon inspection I see a small hairline too, did you got any response about it?
Screen Shot 2022-03-30 at 4.27.02 PM.png
 
FreeFly787 said:
Got to change my crank arms yesterday for Shimano M8150, and upon inspection I see a small hairline too, did you got any response about it?
View attachment 85006
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The shop mechanic said no problem with mine and gave me a written report so I’m all good. It was the dealer where I originally bought my Rise and he was aware of this ongoing issue. Can you get to the dealer you purchased from and have yours checked?
 
I agree, I'd never ride with a crack in the spindle, written report or not. A piece of paper and a promise of a refund/replacement in the event of a failure won't help much when you are potentially nursing a broken ankle, off work and not riding for X months.

I'd be amazed if the crack doesn't get worse. Prior reports (and general metallurgy) suggests that.
 
DarrenCC said:
I bought it last May. I got the all clear on the motor axle today from the shop mechanic so I can keep riding. At least if anything goes wrong in future I will have this assessment on record. I may well change the cranks myself at some point. It’s a shame, I have nothing against the e13 cranks (other than one falling off last year), but after Shimano’s statement that only Shimano cranks should be used with their (Ep8) motor, it’s shaken my trust in them upholding a future warranty issue
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Dude. I can CLEARLY see that there are cracks on both sides. I wouldn't trust that mechanic as far as I could throw him.
 
Planemo said:
I agree, I'd never ride with a crack in the spindle, written report or not. A piece of paper and a promise of a refund/replacement in the event of a failure won't help much when you are potentially nursing a broken ankle, off work and not riding for X months.

I'd be amazed if the crack doesn't get worse. Prior reports (and general metallurgy) suggests that.
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I agree 100%. It started to crack from when there was no crack to start, and no natural high pressure point. Now there is a crack, physics says it will get worse, it literally has to, because the same forces will now be focussed on the existing crack. You need a motor fix.
 
What about if one uses an Alloy Preload Cap, instead of the plastic Shimano, could that help making the crank axle stronger or more durable?
 
e*thirteen Components said:
Shjay,
The crank arms themselves are the same. When they are installed on E7000 or E8000 motors, a spacer is used to achieve correct spacing and preload. The arms themselves are the same. The assembly as a whole is not. Have a look here to see how the configs are different: https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058908731-Shimano-alloy-E-spec-Crank-Manual-
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Installed the e*thirteen cranks on my YT Decoy that has an E8000 motor and used the required spacer. They perform awesome with absolutely no issues. Be sute to follow updated torque specs and you should be good to go. Have checked checked before and after several rides and the have remained secure and in place.
 
FreeFly787 said:
What about if one uses an Alloy Preload Cap, instead of the plastic Shimano, could that help making the crank axle stronger or more durable?
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I used an alloy preload cap and its must more robust than cheap, crappy plastic piece of shite that came on bike. Its been a few months with no issues of coming loose. Have not noticed any cracks last time I looked. Time will tell about longterm usage/qualty defects. I think if crank arms remain firmly in place, there would definitely be less propensity to cause cracks on the motor spindle.
 
I think an alloy pre-load cap creates more problems then it solves. The allow is malleable and is going to fare better not backing out then an allow cap would. In addition, as you torque it, it will deform, and thus deform the threads and again, stop it from coming out. Don't assume alloy is better in this case, with my materials experience, I would specifically avoid alloy for this part/condition for the reasons I listed, plus a few more.
 
ebsocalmtb said:
I think an alloy pre-load cap creates more problems then it solves. The allow is malleable and is going to fare better not backing out then an allow cap would. In addition, as you torque it, it will deform, and thus deform the threads and again, stop it from coming out. Don't assume alloy is better in this case, with my materials experience, I would specifically avoid alloy for this part/condition for the reasons I listed, plus a few more.
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Respect your opinion and sure you have an educational background that warrants it. I work in aerospace and have experience with alloys, plastics and composites. At 2-4nms, not sure how much stress is being put on end cap. Don't think the alloy or plastic cap would really keep crankarm inplace in the event the 2 primary clamping screws came loose. Cap serves more as a means to preload crankarms. When I switched out stock Shimano 165mm cranks to the 160mm e*thirteens, purchased the specific tool needed to remove oem end cap and both of them we already lose, could have used my fingers on one and the other was not even close to 2-4nms. Would be interested to know yiur other reasons for not using alloy.
 
Singletrackmind said:
Installed the e*thirteen cranks on my YT Decoy that has an E8000 motor and used the required spacer. They perform awesome with absolutely no issues. Be sute to follow updated torque specs and you should be good to go. Have checked checked before and after several rides and the have remained secure and in place.
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The topic is E13 failures on the EP8, NOT E8000.
 
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