Cracked rear Hunt rim.

[Tone461]

Discovered these when cleaning the wheel. Brought second hand two years ago so not really complaining but cracks just seem a bit weird, like the spokes have tried to pull through the rim. Despite riding in rocky Wales a lot, never broke a wheel before, guess I've been lucky.
Any good deals on 27.5 wheels (Boost six bolt, sram hd) about?

 

[VWsurfbum]

Hunt Wheels are POOOOOO.

I've seen loads of deals about, depends on budget really, bit like bikes.

 

[yorkshire89]

How posh do you want to go? I just ordered a rim from Stif, they are closing down and have some great deals.
Reserve carbon rim - £650 on their website but posted one out for £189 after calling and asking for a price.

 

[RustyIron]

Generally that's the result of improper spoke tension. There are a lot of self-proclaimed experts who think they're Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and can ascertain tension by plucking spokes, that's just nonsense. Even if you have someone else build your new wheels, get yourself a gauge and check their work. Trust but verify.

 

[Stihldog]

Those cracks do look concerning for either carbon or alloy hoops. (3-4 cracks?). I wonder if the spoke tension was inconsistent, ie a few loose spokes? Sometimes riding over rough surfaces can settle some spokes at either the “J” bend or nipple.

A spoke tension meter can insure equal tension around the diameter of the wheel. Drive side/non-drive side can be different though.

I might still use that wheel BUT, check the tensions and add witness marks for each crack. Could just be a faulty or cheap rim.

 

[Stihldog]

Generally that's the result of improper spoke tension. There are a lot of self-proclaimed experts who think they're Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and can ascertain tension by plucking spokes, that's just nonsense. Even if you have someone else build your new wheels, get yourself a gauge and check their work. Trust but verify.

Jehsus, you’re a fast typer ( you beat me to it), and you’ve probably laced a thousand more wheels than I. But a tension meter is a fairly cheap tool. I calibrate mine occasionally.

 

[irie]

My Hunt Trail Wide rear did the same after 3,000+ miles on my Rail but to be fair they were NOT built for eMTB use and abuse. The reason I had the wheel on my Rail is only because it was originally on my Trek Fuel EX (.analog).

Hunt Trail Wide V2 OR Hope fortus 30W Pro 5?

So I've narrowed it down to the wheels within my budget. Mostly ride local trails with bike parks a few times a year. Appreciate any experience and opinions please.

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Tone461]

Yeah, hadn't planned on carrying on using it . The reason I had it on was because I'm cheap. like my bike.

 

[RustyIron]

a tension meter is a fairly cheap tool. I calibrate mine occasionally.

Right? But using that fancy Park tool requires careful consideration of spoke types, diameters, thicknesses, and the manufacturers recommendations. Who is smart enough and patient enough to figure all that out? Not me. When I get a new bike or new wheel set, the first thing I do is put it on the stand. I measure the tension of every spoke: front brake side, front drive side, rear brake side, rear drive side. Then I write the numbers on the tension gauge box. I don't need to remember, and I can never forget.

On new wheels, I'll check the tension at 150 miles. They'll be way off. Then I check again at 300 miles. There will probably be a little deviation. After that, I check tensions about every six months, or whenever I get the urge. Doing a little periodic maintenance takes FAR less time than installing a new spoke.

 

[Stihldog]

Then I write the numbers on the tension gauge box. I don't need to remember, and I can never forget.

That’s a good idea . I’m gonna do that. Even when I lace my own wheels. (Which seems to take me forever (4hrs), but it can be therapeutic . Some music by the “Background Elevators” helps I’ve never seen them live.