Choosing the Right Brake Pads

[pagheca]

A very basic question: I need to change the pads on my trek powerfly rear disk brake. Rather than going to a shop I want to do it by myself this time and I noticed the original are much more expensive than something else (e.g. 27 € vs. 7€ or so). Are the original worth the cost?

 

[irie]

What is the rear caliper model/what pads are required for it?

 

[pagheca]

The brakes are Tektro HD-M275. e10.11 pads are the standard, and p20.11 an option.

 

[dotcodotuk]

Tektro pads should be dirt cheap - even Trek sell them for £10 here, which would presumably include their usual Trek Tax on top of what you could source elsewhere.

Your brakes will take the same pads as Deore M585 and many, many other brands so you can source some alternative replacements from either Shimano (B01S / B03S / B05S) or any of the usual decent brands that make third-party spares.

Worth checking your rotors are capable of dealing with sintered/metallic pads before moving to them though - and prepare for some squealing until the new metal pads have removed the resin residue from your rotors.

 

[irie]

The brakes are Tektro HD-M275. Pads e10.11 pads are the standard, and p20.11 an option.

I might be wrong, but it looks like you can buy genuine Tektro e10.11 pads on ebay.it for about €10

 

[pagheca]

Are there better compatible pads I can use? More efficient, durable, and/or quieter?

Any recommendations?

 

[irie]

Are there better compatible pads I can use? More efficient, durable, and/or quieter?

Any recommendations?

Are the stock pads noisy and/or inefficient?

How long/how many kms do they last before they wear out?

 

[pagheca]

Are the stock pads noisy and/or inefficient?

How long/how many kms do they last before they wear out?

1. Since the last service, the rear brake pads have become very loud at low speed. This is actually the main reason I want to replace them. The sound is so harsh that it sometimes scares riders ahead of me, as if a truck were braking right behind them....

2. I don’t really have a reliable way to estimate pad life. It could be around a thousand kilometers, or maybe much more. I suspect wear is significantly higher here, since I ride downhill at much higher speeds than before moving, and more speed means more kinetic energy to dissipate (½ m v²), so braking is harder on the pads.

 

[VWsurfbum]

If they will post, I recomend the Uberbike ebike specific pads. Quiet and lasts very well. OEM pads tend to be more metalic and can get noisy, but last longer but with less braking power.

 

[MeatBike]

Are there better compatible pads I can use? More efficient, durable, and/or quieter?

That usually comes down to what compound you go for. Good explanation here:

Brake Pad Compounds Explained

■ Organic Organic brake pads, also known as resin or Kevlar pads, offer low noise and are very quick to bed-in due to their softer composition. Delivering a strong initial bite you can feel the power as soon as you apply the brakes. Expect them to wear faster than alternative compounds. Perfect...

epicbleedsolutions.com

 

[pagheca]

Thanks guys.

I’m realizing that choosing the right brake pads for your riding style is a lot more involved than I expected. From what I’m reading, it seems that ceramic pads might actually suit my typical usage better. Not an easy choice, though.

Another interesting source I found: https://hardheadedram.bike/ceramic-vs-sintered-brake-pads-whats-best-for-e-bikes/#:~:text=If%20you're%20riding%20in,pads%20are%20the%20clear%20winner.

My most common use right now is commuting (3.5km downhill, 3km urban sections, 3.5 km gravel, and back, most weekdays), but I’m also doing long hilly rides on both road and gravel, and occasionally some MTB on the weekends.

I also plan to do multi-day bike trips with a heavier load.

(I changed the title of the thread.)

 

[irie]

1. Since the last service, the rear brake pads have become very loud at low speed. This is actually the main reason I want to replace them. The sound is so harsh that it sometimes scares riders ahead of me, as if a truck were braking right behind them....

I would not be surprised if the rotor or pads were contaminated during the "last service". If so then the rotor will be contaminated and new pads will quickly be contaminated by the rotor.

If you can please post a picture of the rotor.

 

[MeatBike]

Brake disc cleaning spray and a fine grit sandpaper will remove the bedded in pad material from the last set, along with any contaminants.

Always a good idea to do this when changing pad compounds and before bedding in the new pads.

 

[pagheca]

If you can please post a picture of the rotor.

Actually doesn't look very clean...

I add also a picture of the pads. The pads don't look worn to me, but the case is quite dirty.

 

[VWsurfbum]

Pads don't look worn, but I would hazard a guess that they might not be "clean" so out with the sand paper and brake cleaner for you!

 

[Purple parznip]

A very basic question: I need to change the pads on my trek powerfly rear disk brake. Rather than going to a shop I want to do it by myself this time and I noticed the original are much more expensive than something else (e.g. 27 € vs. 7€ or so). Are the original worth the cost?

Gorilla pads,last longer,better braking and feel,get enduro ones.

 

[MeatBike]

Gorilla pads,last longer,better braking and feel,get enduro ones.

That's what I use, the Enduro Pro Resin version. Great pads. That compound might not be best suited to OP's needs though.

 

[irie]

Thanks for the pics - the rotor is ugly especially in the second picture!

Definitely contaminated so don't put new pads in before it's cleaned. If I was near the bike shop that did the service I would take the bike back to them to clean up the mess they may have created.

Oh, and after the rotor is cleaned do not put the old pads back in, they will contaminate the rotor again.

 

[Polar]

You will probably get lots of recommendations about pads and mostly what they use themselves but it's lots of alternatives like no branded. Ali express, original etc.
I have used Galfer purple for year and would not change them for other alternatives
Iove the pads not the price.

 

[jackamo]

Actually doesn't look very clean...

View attachment 174240
View attachment 174241
I add also a picture of the pads. The pads don't look worn to me, but the case is quite dirty.

View attachment 174242

Pads are probably glazed and just need a sanding , for a better option if available for your brakes may i suggest Galfer purple pads . Excellent braking and last for ages.

 

[Bigmike]

As above i have tried several different pads and all ways go back to galfer purple

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Your disks look knackered to me, your second and third pics shows a definite 0.5mm to 1.0mm wear lip at 4 o'clock yet the rest of the disk looks fine (pinch zoom and you'll see it). Verdict a slightly warped rear disk (hence the noise). Replace the disk and replace the pads with some semi metallics.

 

[Kepa]

How are you using your brakes? I have similar "problem" with my daily commuter: due to lack of proper braking my pads were "glazed". Solution was/is either to find a good long hill where you can brake properly, heating up the brakes, or to sand the pads. I have shimano GRX brakes and stock pads.

Looking at your pics, I'd start with a proper cleaning.

 

[Polar]

pads.

Looking at your pics, I'd start with a proper cleaning.

Actually that sounds like a good starting point