Levo Gen 2 Change front wheel bearings

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,145
4,676
Weymouth
2019 Levo Comp. 1 hour job to change front wheel bearings. I used 6902-2RS LLB Enduro bearings.
Tools required are hammer, nail punch, press drifts or suitable sized socket, bearing grease, soft faced lever (e.g. small pliers), soft faced lever 13/14 mm diameter.
Remove wheel from bike. Pull off torque caps...no tool needed. Lever off hub end caps ( see pic). Any tool with a soft face shaft with 13 or 14 mm diameter will do. Just insert and lever out. Next use something like the curved and soft grip covered handle of small pliers to lever the hub spacer that sits between the bearings, to one side. This will expose an edge of the bearing when viewed through the hub. Place the wheel on a block of wood and on a hard surface. Working on the non disc side bearing first, use a nail punch to start drifting the bearing out. Keep moving the spacer to expose opposite edges of the bearing so you drift it out evenly side to side. Once out the spacer will also come out. Now drift out evenly the disc side bearing. If you left the disc on you will need an additional support under the hub like some plastic tube or a socket covered in cloth.....same size as hub diameter.
The new bearings can be greased up and either pressed in or tapped in using a suitable sized socket. Don't forget to insert the spacer after pressing or tapping in the first bearing. If you do not use a press with suitable pieces to keep the spacer central you can use the Maxle to align it before tapping the second bearing fully home.
Now replace the end caps....tap back in with a socket of suitable size. Finally replace the torque caps.

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Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,145
4,676
Weymouth
2019 Levo Comp. 1 hour job to change front wheel bearings. I used 6902-2RS LLB Enduro bearings.
Tools required are hammer, nail punch, press drifts or suitable sized socket, bearing grease, soft faced lever (e.g. small pliers), soft faced lever 13/14 mm diameter.
Remove wheel from bike. Pull off torque caps...no tool needed. Lever off hub end caps ( see pic). Any tool with a soft face shaft with 13 or 14 mm diameter will do. Just insert and lever out. Next use something like the curved and soft grip covered handle of small pliers to lever the hub spacer that sits between the bearings, to one side. This will expose an edge of the bearing when viewed through the hub. Place the wheel on a block of wood and on a hard surface. Working on the non disc side bearing first, use a nail punch to start drifting the bearing out. Keep moving the spacer to expose opposite edges of the bearing so you drift it out evenly side to side. Once out the spacer will also come out. Now drift out evenly the disc side bearing. If you left the disc on you will need an additional support under the hub like some plastic tube or a socket covered in cloth.....same size as hub diameter.
The new bearings can be greased up and either pressed in or tapped in using a suitable sized socket. Don't forget to insert the spacer after pressing or tapping in the first bearing. If you do not use a press with suitable pieces to keep the spacer central you can use the Maxle to align it before tapping the second bearing fully home.
Now replace the end caps....tap back in with a socket of suitable size. Finally replace the torque caps.

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Just as a follow up to this...............the reason I investigated and subsequently changed the bearings was simply because I felt a vibration transmitted through the bike to the cranks, but only when the front wheel was lightly weighted on a steep climb. I thought at first it was the front brake caliper but decided to check the front hub whilst I was investigating. The lesson I learnt was that the simple finger in the bearing to rotate it is not a definitive test because one bearing felt fine and the other had just a little more resistance. I decided to remove the seal on that bearing, clean it out as best I could and push some fresh grease into it just as a temporary measure whilst I ordered a new set of bearings. When I removed the bearings and tried them they felt OK. Both tests are inadequate because of course there is no load on the bearing for either test. Certainly when I had replaced the bearings I could tell how free the wheel was to spin with the bike hung in the bike rack, taking ages to come to a stop.......and that does seem to be a pretty good test. Moral of the story is if you are tuned in to your bike you can feel if something is not right.
 

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