Brose T delimiting

[luckyOne]

Anyone delimited their Brose T here? I'm searching for the info about it and looks like there are two ways to do it:

1. Mess with speed signals to make the controller think we have not reached max speed yet. So you can either move the magnet to crank or use something like a badass box that will halve readings. This is quite simple solution but for me the downside of wrong speedometer and odometer readings is almost a dealbreaker.

2. As far as I understood from ads and info on the internet, peartune and some other boxes that are connected to both speed sensor and controller/speedo can somehow delimit it but still show correct speed and odometer. Maybe somebody knows how is that working? I think that almost 2 hundred euros for a box is too much, plus I like DIY so I'm itchy to make something myself using a microcontroller. So any ideas of how that works are really welcome.

 

[BeBiker]

I wanted real speed and range indication on my Decathlon e-st900, so crankmount/sensorbox/... was no option.
The 'decent' systems pass the original speed signal to the HMI, and give a modified speed signal to the motor controller.
That's why they will always interrupt both the 2P speed connector and the 5p HMI connector.

I bought a Peartune from ebike-tuningparts.com ebiketuningparts on Ebay.
It works, but you have to unplug the 2 water-tight connectors (one 2p and one 5p), and plug their cheapo breadboard connectors there.
You loose the water tightning on 4 places, and you loose the "click" that keeps the connectors in place.
To make it worse, they used cheapo stiff cables, so a disconnect while riding or wear-out is preprogrammed.
Paypal dispute is ongoing.

Now I have a Bikespeed-RS from bikespeed.de
This is what you want. A beautiful case, 4 original watertight connectors, flexible cables.

Pic1: Crappy Peartune while removing, with stiff cables and already bent pins.

Pic2: Comparison between crappy PearTune and superb Bikespeed-RS

Disclaimer: I only install it when riding on a closed private bike park. I remove it every time I drive on public roads.
Disclaimer to the Decathlon warranty service: This is photoshop, This is not my bike. This is not me.

 

[luckyOne]

I like it very much that you remove this bad stuff when riding on public roads

Have you managed to find the pinout of that 5pin connector? If it just sends forward signals to HMI it should be very easy to make something working on arduino or similar microcontroller

And btw, how it goes without restrictions? Does it fell better now?

 

[BeBiker]

Hey, nothing to find out. Buy it, plug it in, and it works.

I thought for a moment to figure out something myself, can not be too difficult.
Pinout of the 5p has to be: pos, neg, lights-button, speedsignal, on-button, or something similar.
For a frequency divider there is even no need for a uC, but you have some signal conditioning, casing, connectors, tests...
I decided to bite the bullet, pay it, and go riding some hours instead.

On a flat track with absolute maximum (untrained) leg power I get to 45 km/h now.
Downhill record was already crazy 65km/h, no battery needed here.

32 km/h is easy to maintain and there is no more 'handbrake effect'
.

 

[Gary Davis]

Hey, nothing to find out. Buy it, plug it in, and it works.

I thought for a moment to figure out something myself, can not be too difficult.
Pinout of the 5p has to be: pos, neg, lights-button, speedsignal, on-button, or something similar.
For a frequency divider there is even no need for a uC, but you have some signal conditioning, casing, connectors, tests...
I decided to bite the bullet, pay it, and go riding some hours instead.

On a flat track with absolute maximum (untrained) leg power I get to 45 km/h now.
Downhill record was already crazy 65km/h, no battery needed here.

32 km/h is easy to maintain and there is no more 'handbrake effect'
.

Hi,
I also bought the Bikespeed RS unit and it's seriously build with good quality connectors. How did you manage to put it into such small carter. Some original wires are way too long and take a lot of space. There also a quite big ferrite on one wire. Did you take some picture of the install ? Thanks in advance

 

[BeBiker]

Hey, I pushed the coil to another location, and the (too) long wires of the bike, indeed you have to rearrange somewhat.
But it fits

 

[Gary Davis]

Hey, I pushed the coil to another location, and the (too) long wires of the bike, indeed you have to rearrange somewhat.
But it fits

Hi,
Thanks again for the tip. I'll try to stick the coil and the Bikespeed RS unit with double side tape into the cover to be sure they don't move while reassembling.

 

[BeBiker]

I didn't tape them, but that might be a good idea.
The biggest challenge was to make sure the wires don't get stuk between both sides of the cover, when bolting together.

 

[BeBiker]

Hey look what I found:

 

[BeBiker]

And another :

 

[Gary Davis]

I didn't tape them, but that might be a good idea.
The biggest challenge was to make sure the wires don't get stuk between both sides of the cover, when bolting together.

that's exactly what i thought. It looks that the cover isn't so mud proof.

 

[Gary Davis]

Be careful ! You found a real fan. The guy put your name on the cover !

 

[Gary Davis]

And another :

View attachment 53246

Your image saved my life . I broke a little piece of plastic inside the 2 wires round connector and wondered which way to connect. I wanted to connect following color code (black /black) but the image shows black to brown and red to black which could seem strange. I managed to put all wires correctly inside the cover. Could you tell me the procedure to activate and deactivate the system because the manual mention "Tour" and "Sport" modes that we don't have. Thank you in advance.

 

[BeBiker]

I also don't know the modes "tour" and "sport"
Activating/deactivating is -+-+

 

[Gary Davis]

I also don't know the modes "tour" and "sport"
Activating/deactivating is -+-+

Thank you. It's a bit late but I will try this right now. Hope you will find a (waterproof)solution for your charging port

 

[Gary Davis]

I also don't know the modes "tour" and "sport"
Activating/deactivating is -+-+

Hi, I have a kind of animation on the display but I'm quite sure it doesn't work. If you can reach 45 km/h with untrained legs then... I have no legs at all ! I even experienced a strange feeling of kind of handbrake on/off several times while riding. I switched the bike off and on again and it hasn't happened again. I know it could sounds stupid but do you operate the activation sequence when the bike is off or on? As I told you, I had some hesitation about wiring because of broken plug but I don't think that's the problem. Sorry for all these questions and my broken English.

 

[RonnieX]

With the bike switched on and the power level at 2 or 3. Press the - button, then the + button, then the - button. Then the + button in quick succession.

If the dongle is operating, the battery power animation will perform an empty to full movement

if the dongle is off. The battery power animation will perform a full to empty movement!

 

[BeBiker]

With the bike switched on and the power level at 2 or 3. Press the...

I didn't know it wouldn't work in 1 or 4. Maybe that's the reason sometimes mine didn't work last days.

If the dongle is operating, the battery power animation will perform an empty to full movement
if the dongle is off. The battery power animation will perform a full to empty movement!

What do you mean with battery power animation ? I can't remember to have seen that...

.

 

[Gary Davis]

I didn't know it wouldn't work in 1 or 4. Maybe that's the reason sometimes mine didn't work last days.


What do you mean with battery power animation ? I can't remember to have seen that...

.

Q1 : 2 or 3 maybe to allow the system to decrease/increase by 1level within the range of 4. Am I clear ?
Q2 : Don't you have any animation at all on your display ?

 

[RonnieX]

@BeBiker go through the sequence of switching the dongle on or off and watch your display. You'll see what I mean about animation in your battery power level.

 

[Gary Davis]

@BeBiker go through the sequence of switching the dongle on or off and watch your display. You'll see what I mean about animation in your battery power level.

Do you also have also a speedometer animation (increasing/decreasing) together with battery animation ?

 

[RonnieX]

Not noticed that. I'll check shortly.

 

[Gary Davis]

I'm at my office now but I'll try to upload a video to be more clear

 

[RonnieX]

Speedo stays at 0 on mine.

 

[RonnieX]

out of interest, has anyone got a newer software version than mine?

 

[Gary Davis]

Same as mine

 

[BeBiker]

@BeBiker go through the sequence of switching the dongle on or off and watch your display. You'll see what I mean about animation in your battery power level.

I looked at it, and saw the battery animation the first time.
Never noticed that before...

 

[Gary Davis]

I looked at it, and saw the battery animation the first time.
Never noticed that before...

Hi, is your speedometer also varies from 0 to around 8 km/h (0 to 5 mph) and reverse ? I have both. I tried several times to upload a video in vain. File seems to large. This erratic behaviour takes around 30 s to complete then it stabilizes at 0 km/h. I begin to think about the "magnet" solution. Cheap but wrong odometer data

 

[neilski]

With the bike switched on and the power level at 2 or 3. Press the - button, then the + button, then the - button. Then the + button in quick succession.

If the dongle is operating, the battery power animation will perform an empty to full movement

if the dongle is off. The battery power animation will perform a full to empty movement!

Hi there, on looking on the bikespeed.de site there are two options the bikespeed-RS and the bikespeed-RS C which you are able to choose an individual sequence for turning off the functionality of the unit. just checking the bikespeed-RS can be activated de-activated by using the steps mentioned in your post? I don't have to get the more expensive one for this functionality?
Thanks

 

[RonnieX]

@neilski Yes, the cheaper variant can be switched on and off as described above.

Furthermore, it will be permenantly active regardless of powering the bike on or off, or removing the battery, until you repeat the proceedure to de-activate it.