Brakes problem.. (Code R, RSC and lever throw)

[CjP]

I’m running codes Rs and Hope discs and with a proper bleed, I’ve had a great lever feel and modulation. Lever moves no more then 25mm and as pads wear out I re bleed to suit or just swap them out depending on where I’m riding.
I bleed with pads in but a 2mm spacer to suit the Hope Discs.
No complaints so far.
Standard pads still squeal in the wet but no issues pulling the bike up.
Levo SL

 

[Fingerpuk]

Maybe I should bleed more often. The brakes I mean, myself I’m happy with my liquid content.

 

[Dustjunky]

I am short.. my fingers are short (The other measurments are impressive - that's what she said ;-) ). I ride M bike with SRAM Code brakes. You see my point?
So I hate that my brake lever goes 1/2 into its travel before the pad gently touches the disk. Some more and it finally brakes but lever continues until almost hitting the bar.. almost.. I can still put my small finger (from another hand) under at max squeeze but this initial empty stroke makes me really angry! I understand 10% or maybe 15%.. ok I have a good day today let it be 20% but not fucking 50% of dead travel!
I just want to say that it is exactly the same before and after the bleeding and on Code R and Code RSC.
Code RSC are nicer of course! feels more precise.. and all the way in is like that.. all the way out on contact the lever travels to the bar.. like couple mm off. Seriously this is counter-intuitive or plain wrong! When I move my lever distance all the way out situations is a bit better when it comes to closing lever to the bar.. but still 50% of nothing then modulation and then bar! C'mon!
I've heard that my problem solving is Shimano XT but there I've heard I won't have modulation. I like modulation.. that allows me to brake downhill without the locking the back wheel so I kind of need that.. but I honestly I hate this empty throw. I've also read that Shimano new XT has great everything, you can easily feel contact point (that's what I want and not after half of the lever travel) but as the brakes get hot it drifts away and you end up down with the lever to the bar.. or like in Sram brakes..
Over-bleeding helps but then starts rubbing, squeaking and actually it may end up with leak or some kind of blockage (when it gets hot?).

Help, ideas, your experience? How do you deal with your finger oversqueeze on the descents?
Thanks,
fil..

I’ve got them on my Kenevo 2020 and my YT Capra and I agree with you there crap ...frightening when your trying to slow down fast .....dont trust them one bit

 

[Sapientiea]

There is really no need to bleed the CODES that often. Usually it is a wrong bleeding procedure that is the problem. I have 4 mtb's all of which with CODES and they hold a bleed very long. Only one right hand brake of my wifes bike was a real pain in the butt to get right. Not sure what was the problem there, but I solved it by cleaning the calipers and pushing all new fluid in from top to bottom (flush).

Best way (I found) to bleed the brakes is : to set bite point outward and lever at 80mm from bar . Push fluid up from lever towards caliper and then apply vacuum at lever a few times in between you pull the lever and let it go as to allow for (most) air bubbles to escape. Remove bottom syringe and close port at the caliper first. Then put pressure on the syring and let it go up by itself. Remove syringe and screw bolt back to close. Works every time for me. Then set lever distance from bar and bite-point if present.

 

[jbj]

Wanted to add my 2c as I have been struggling bleeding new SRAM Code RSC calipers for a couple of days now. I had everything the initial poster mentioned - lots of bubbles on creating a vacuum at the lever after closing the bleeding edge port. Then, having pressurized the system, so much fluid leaks after removing the syringe at the lever before you can get the plug back in and the brakes were spongy afterwards.

The solution for me, as mentioned elsewhere in the answers hence this upvote, was to bleed per the procedure, put everything back together and then (carefully) pressurize from the caliper end - keeping the pressure on via the syringe while closing the bleeding edge port. This worked a treat and the brakes are perfect now. Simple when you think about it - pressurize at the caliper with the rotor and pads in, not the lever but be really really careful not to contaminate your pads.

HTH someone else struggling with these brakes.

Mike

 

[Sapientiea]

Wanted to add my 2c as I have been struggling bleeding new SRAM Code RSC calipers for a couple of days now. I had everything the initial poster mentioned - lots of bubbles on creating a vacuum at the lever after closing the bleeding edge port. Then, having pressurized the system, so much fluid leaks after removing the syringe at the lever before you can get the plug back in and the brakes were spongy afterwards.

The solution for me, as mentioned elsewhere in the answers hence this upvote, was to bleed per the procedure, put everything back together and then (carefully) pressurize from the caliper end - keeping the pressure on via the syringe while closing the bleeding edge port. This worked a treat and the brakes are perfect now. Simple when you think about it - pressurize at the caliper with the rotor and pads in, not the lever but be really really careful not to contaminate your pads.

HTH someone else struggling with these brakes.

Mike

A lot of bubbles coming from the syringe might indicate the bubbles are originating from the outside. It happens with the more cheap syringes and their connections. I also have had this problem and it makes bleeding much less effective. It might also explain why pressurizing the system from the caliper end works for you, while I do not need it?

 

[Redders473]

Wanted to add my 2c as I have been struggling bleeding new SRAM Code RSC calipers for a couple of days now. I had everything the initial poster mentioned - lots of bubbles on creating a vacuum at the lever after closing the bleeding edge port. Then, having pressurized the system, so much fluid leaks after removing the syringe at the lever before you can get the plug back in and the brakes were spongy afterwards.

The solution for me, as mentioned elsewhere in the answers hence this upvote, was to bleed per the procedure, put everything back together and then (carefully) pressurize from the caliper end - keeping the pressure on via the syringe while closing the bleeding edge port. This worked a treat and the brakes are perfect now. Simple when you think about it - pressurize at the caliper with the rotor and pads in, not the lever but be really really careful not to contaminate your pads.

HTH someone else struggling with these brakes.

Mike

Do you think this would work without attaching the syringe to the lever and just Pressurising the caliper via the bleeding edge tool

 

[nosuchuser]

Do you think this would work without attaching the syringe to the lever and just Pressurising the caliper via the bleeding edge tool

Yes, done it a couple of times when the pads have worn a fair bit.

 

[Redders473]

Yes, done it a couple of times when the pads have worn a fair bit.

Cheers bro that's tonights job

 

[Mcharza]

These two instructions are the best. Always got it working with these.