Kenevo Gen1 38mm Boxxer - new stanchion possible?

The dilemma now is whether to:

a) change it out entirely

b) Risk sinking another circa 500 into the avalanche damper upgrade that I've seen people mention

Decisions decisions. Quite annoying to be throwing parts away on a brand new bike.

I've already changed the Codes for Dominions as well 🤦‍♀️
 
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If its that bad why not send it back for warranty. Maybe there is something wrong with it.

I'm going to try 3 tokens and dropping the pressure to make it a bit softer.
 
also - the brakes - how are they compared to the code RS? I was riding some steeps yesterday and thought the code RS were quite powerful.
 
biota said:
When I say "bottom out", I absolutely do not mean harsh end of stroke. I mean metal to metal like when you hit a 4-inch nail with a hammer.

So I'm not getting harsh end of stroke because of too many volume spacers. That would be vastly preferable to what I am getting.
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So this definately sounds like you do not have enough pressure in the air spring.
biota said:
I'm close to 80kg with gear and I've used TH, but again after that didn't work I've gone off sag and feel.
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As do this one, based on the pressures you have cited here.
biota said:
And yes I've cycled the fork whilst increasing pressure. If I hadn't done this then - pressure would equalise during operation, + pressure would drop and sag would increase significantly. It's not.
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Good that you have done this and it gets ticked off from things to troubleshoot. This is what would happen.
biota said:
More pressure is simply not the answer. The logic you apply to not fixating purely on sag is equally or more applicable to fixating on pressures.
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I fully stand in my opinion that an individual should base fork setup to feel at the end of the day, but again it is not easy to troubleshoot someone else’s problem without any information about the situation such as the pressures used. To me, what you have said in this thread indicates that you should at least try going higher in the pressures of the fork.
 
MagisterBibendi said:
So this definately sounds like you do not have enough pressure in the air spring.

As do this one, based on the pressures you have cited here.

Good that you have done this and it gets ticked off from things to troubleshoot. This is what would happen.

I fully stand in my opinion that an individual should base fork setup to feel at the end of the day, but again it is not easy to troubleshoot someone else’s problem without any information about the situation such as the pressures used. To me, what you have said in this thread indicates that you should at least try going higher in the pressures of the fork.
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There's nothing to lose in trying more pressure I suppose and maybe no compression damping.

But I can foresee other problems with running say 15% sag.
 
James_C said:
also - the brakes - how are they compared to the code RS? I was riding some steeps yesterday and thought the code RS were quite powerful.
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Yeah I had the codes on my Slash and they weren't really terrible, I just didn't like the lack of defined bite point and overall squidginess. They did give me arm pump on anything a bit longer as well.

I used to be into moto trails and the brakes on a 70kg gas gas had a very defined bite bite and stopped you easily.

They definitely have a nicer bite point and I've been able to adjust the levers in really close because they have reach and bike point adjustment, and only require a little bit of throw to do the job.
 
We run 95psi, 3 volume spacers and a rider weight of 65kg. Bike works perfectly with that on the Boxxers.
 
biota said:
There's nothing to lose in trying more pressure I suppose and maybe no compression damping.

But I can foresee other problems with running say 15% sag.
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Now that the equalization of air spring chambers is clarified, it does sound very strange if you end up going a lot less than 20 % static sag and still bottoming out metal-to-metal… 🤔 It does raise the question could there be something wrong with the fork.
 
biota said:
What bike is it?
180mm?
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It's a Trek Session, running the Boxxers at 200mm, it's been professionally setup by TFTuned and RSRbikeworks using data-logging/telemetry. Sag showing at 24% and using 88% of maximum travel (not the hardest track in terms of max use)
 
Weeksy said:
It's a Trek Session, running the Boxxers at 200mm, it's been professionally setup by TFTuned and RSRbikeworks using data-logging/telemetry. Sag showing at 24% and using 88% of maximum travel (not the hardest track in terms of max use)
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TF are on my list to call for a chat. From the website it seems like they don't mind giving a bit of advice.
 
biota said:
TF are on my list to call for a chat. From the website it seems like they don't mind giving a bit of advice.
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Yeah they're awesome mate, give them a shout and speak to Ruth. Tell her i sent you and she'll give you a friendly welcome. (although she'd do that anyway).
 
Just wondering could tight bushings manifest in the fork behavior that biota is describing? Don’t have any personal experience on that issue though.
 
Bad luck man. I was told here in the UK that RS don't sell bushings for the Zeb when I asked, have to get new lowers they said. I think my Zeb has reamed Formula bushings in, that COULD be my old Lyrik though.
I hope that if your bushing is damaged that’s not the case for you. MAYBE a Fox 38 busing might do, I'd ask Sprung Suspension or J-Tech.
 
nB2000 said:
Bad luck man. I was told here in the UK that RS don't sell bushings for the Zeb when I asked, have to get new lowers they said. I think my Zeb has reamed Formula bushings in, that COULD be my old Lyrik though.
I hope that if your bushing is damaged that’s not the case for you. MAYBE a Fox 38 busing might do, I'd ask Sprung Suspension or J-Tech.
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Yeah I spoke to a small indie suspension guy who told me the same, RockShox don't supply them. But he said he can get something that does the job
 
There are patch repair kit for sure like this one: SCRATCH COVER - FORK REPAIR KIT

It is a long process but pretty straightforward. If there is not a lot of matter removed (I mean not too deep) you could give a try, that would be also a fun hobby to do and a nice achievement: "I scratch cover repair my fork".

Not sure you can recover 100% smooth, issue would be that you might let dirt inside your fork. At this stage I would do it, worst case scenario, it is not better, and you use it as is and wait for some discount prices.
 
whitymon said:
There are patch repair kit for sure like this one: SCRATCH COVER - FORK REPAIR KIT

It is a long process but pretty straightforward. If there is not a lot of matter removed (I mean not too deep) you could give a try, that would be also a fun hobby to do and a nice achievement: "I scratch cover repair my fork".

Not sure you can recover 100% smooth, issue would be that you might let dirt inside your fork. At this stage I would do it, worst case scenario, it is not better, and you use it as is and wait for some discount prices.
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I was planning to try that stuff and discussed it with the guys at Jtech who well the kit, they said its not really for straight scratches (inline with movement), My BOS fork had a 1" long 0.3mm wide sctrach done by. a bit of grit in the seal and they said that wouldn't be repaired well. If you guys try it I'd love to know if it succeeds, thats unfortunately a massive gouge you have by the look
 
whitymon said:
There are patch repair kit for sure like this one: SCRATCH COVER - FORK REPAIR KIT

It is a long process but pretty straightforward. If there is not a lot of matter removed (I mean not too deep) you could give a try, that would be also a fun hobby to do and a nice achievement: "I scratch cover repair my fork".

Not sure you can recover 100% smooth, issue would be that you might let dirt inside your fork. At this stage I would do it, worst case scenario, it is not better, and you use it as is and wait for some discount prices.
Click to expand...

aparently this stuff called 'black nail polish' exists and has a secondry use on fork stantions....

obviouly not the easy 'fill the gouge' method🤭 but could be worth speaking to your local goth neighbour

^^ as used by my mrs on her Ohlins rfx38's before a warranty replacement csu (y)

Rich.
 
James_C said:
If its that bad why not send it back for warranty. Maybe there is something wrong with it.

I'm going to try 3 tokens and dropping the pressure to make it a bit softer.
Click to expand...
I tried 150psi and 140psi with 3 tokens today. Used maybe 80% travel although this is on forest trails with smallish jumps. It doesnt feel harsh at all, softer than my other bike (levo with lyrik). I'll see what happens at a bike park at the weekend.

What tyre pressures are you using, that will have a marked effect as well. I use 25/28psi
 
So this has since gone back to SRAM under warranty because it bottoms out hard, as we've established.
Shop also noticed it feels odd under extension when off the bike and just bouncing it by the handlebars.

SRAM won't touch it until I okay a new stanchion at basically £200, which they will fit foc as goodwill.
However, they've said if something inside requires 'service' that will be +£140.
And the big one... if there's damage to the lowers they'll need to replace them at about £400.

So potentially £740 in, they could tell me there isn't anything warrantyable wrong with them and not change anything with the damper and actual issue I sent it back for 😱

Based on what I've been reading about the boxxer I don't even think I'd want to throw the £340 after it.

And I've missed an afternoon riding with my mates today 😭😭😭
 
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