Levo Gen 2 2020 Levo Comp – 2000 mile check in - UPDATE

GL1

Member
Oct 22, 2020
78
37
Golden, Colorado USA
Just a post to celebrate turning 1,000 miles on my Levo!

I am blessed to live in an area (Golden, Colorado USA) where eBiking opportunities abound between our county trails, state parks, and other public lands. Being a long time, very competitive MTB and Moto rider I have found the perfect synergy in eBikes and wanted to pass along my comments to the community at large and specifically anyone looking to jump into the eBike world and / or looking to purchase a new Levo.

I’m a statistics professor so I’ll start with some of that (and I’d love to get some stats from others if they have some of these.)

My 1000 Mile Stats:

2020 Levo Comp, Medium

Delivery Date / First Ride: 5/22/2020
Date hit 1000 mi: 10/22/20 (5 months from purchase, avg. 50 mi per week)

59 - Total rides
67 - Hours of riding (roughly)
55 - # of charges (I charge after most rides unless I have 70% or better depending on my ride plans)
117,772 feet - Total elevation gained
132,562 - Total elevation lost (some rides where I was dropped off higher and rode home)
44.96 mph - Highest speed
22,679.97 - Total calories burned (est)
52 miles, 4200 feet climbing, 159% support, 15% battery -Longest Ride
12.13 - Avg speed for all rides.
17.59 - Highest average speed on a ride (all out turbo with only 800’ elevation etc.)
159.06% - Lowest level of support
410.62% - Highest level of support
277.00 - Avg overall level of support

My 1000 Mile Notes:

Overall:

The eBike has me on the bike more than I have been in years. It motivates me to get out. I have explored more trails and ridden many trails I hadn’t in years! I am still getting plenty of exercise and likely more than I did with my standard MTB.

I use my bike mainly for trail riding but also for some commuting…or a combo of both which I love!

I feel that sharing trails is no problem at all with the possible exception of going “turbo” on someone’s tail on singletrack climbs and breathing down their neck. I consciously avoid this situation to assuage negative eBike opinions. I lower my assist level and simply pass when it’s possible and reasonable with a positive word to the other rider and then go on my way. In 1000 miles I have not had any negative interactions or comments from other trail users.

I can’t believe how much I enjoy eBiking over either regular MTB (with less opportunity to go as far in the same amount of time) or, dirt biking (which is loud and hard to deal with in technical terrain due to the weight of a moto.) eBiking is the perfect mix for me. I would not buy another regular MTB or a dirt bike at this point. All eMTB all the way! I love the mix of cardio but also the way it performs. Personally with my moto background I like the extra weight as it holds corners better and makes the suspension a bit more active. I certainly ride the eMTB differently than a light MTB where you can really throw it around. But, I love the glued and rail feeling of an eMTB on technical terrain and in swooping singletrack.

Up and down the Levo is the absolute best bike I’ve ever owned. I had a Bulls too…nice bike but not as nice as the Levo. I have considerable time on a 2019 Kenevo too and still…2020 Levo by far…700 battery of course but the overall quality and ride as well.

Bike Specific:

I can’t say enough about the 700 battery. Honestly, often times I only do an hour or so ride and don’t get anywhere near using much more than 50% of capacity (even at full turbo, 20+ miles and 3000+ feet of climbing.) But, it’s really nice to have it. I have ridden with some guys that have the 500 Levo and Kenevo and the two of us with the 700w Levo’s have a LOT more range if we are following similar battery saving riding techniques. On one ride that as about 32 miles and 4800 feet of climbing we all were saving battery but we rode a lot in our second mode (45%) and at the end we still had nearly 50% while they were down around 15% and had been riding in their lower modes most of the time trying to conserve battery. So even if we had wanted to go longer (and we could have), we had to cut the ride short for the 500 watters.

I have not de-restricted my bike nor do I have plans to. When commuting (on roads) sometimes a higher assist speed would be nice and would result in being passed a bit less by cars on certain roads. But, based on the Levo’s gearing it would also mean likely having to change the gearing to optimize the higher speed as well as reduced battery range (although with the 700w…not sure that would be a huge issue.) Offroad it’s rare I would ever want higher speed…maybe on flat dirt roads but it’s great as is and I want to keep it a Class 1 and be able to use Mission Control accurately (rather than Blevo etc. which modification would necessitate to get accurate mileage etc.)

I did get the firmware update installed but not before I had about 600 miles on the bike. One thing I had done was to make my maximum on level 3 only 95% and my response about 80%. Not sure if this saved some stress on my motor but I have certainly cranked on it on some very steep obstacles and climbs. But, at 1000 miles, my motor is original and has had no issues at all. It was a later 2020 shipped bike and from what I can tell on the motor serial number, is likely to have been “fixed” and not have the prior belt slipping issue. I think. At any rate, it seems just as powerful as and quiet as it has since the beginning.

The battery still says 100% health in Mission Control.

I had issues with the rims sealing for tubeless. The strips included did not entirely seal it well enough to keep some leakage through the spoke nipple holes. I tried some Stans tape and that was worthless. It would not stick to the rims at all even after thorough cleaning. Waste of money. I taped them twice around (covering all the spoke nipple holes) with good quality electrical tape, installed the specialized rim strip over that and it’s been perfect since then with zero leaking or PSI loss.

I ditched the Specialized grips for some fatter and softer ones. No biggie. I’d like to try a carbon bar and may in the future to see if it reduced hand fatigue a bit but so far it’s been fine. I did go to a slightly longer stem given my height (5’9”.) I know most would say I should be on a large but I like the medium and find it a bit more manageable. I am in-between but just saying…you can be a bit taller and still do fine on a medium. (It’s all that was available anyway in May of last year….the Larges were gone.) The dropper post is still plenty long to accommodate me and well below the max height line on the post.

The front stock tire (Butcher) is still going (and still looking) okay at 1000 miles. The rear I had to replace around 200. It was simply not stout enough for me (at 172 lbs). I like to think I’m a rather finesse rider but I was pinching it and had to run too high of PSI. Sidewalls were not standing up to the rocks here either. I looked at rim inserts but ultimately just went with a DHR Minion full DH casing and it’s been perfect now for near 500 miles on a lot of rough terrain. So, with that I don't see the need for any inserts unless I really wanted to run lower pressure (and I'm running 24-26 psi.) I don’t run very low pressure because regardless of what tire I run on the stock rims they also seem to be able to break the bead and leak around the bead a bit too easy. I have dented the rear rim a few times and pulled them out with covered channel locks easily (maybe too easily...seem a bit flimsy at the lip). The stock rims (Rovals) on the comp are in my opinion…so-so but that’s acceptable to me considering the price point of the bike.

I upgraded the fork to the better internal dampener from Rock Shock and have 160mm of travel now. That is really nice and I did notice it. As is a commonly known issue, the stock 150 in the Lyrik for this year had a lot of sag and the new dampener solves that and gives it more travel. Very happy with this mod for $40.

I did have some shifting issues with the GX derailler out of the box. Personally I don’t love the auto-clutch. With narrow-wide I’m not sure it’s needed all the time and puts more wear on components. Beyond that though, the high setting no matter what I did (my friends was the same way) would on occasion slip off the cog down onto the frame and wear a groove in the alloy. If I adjusted the derailler to where it wouldn’t do this it would skip and didn’t have enough range on the bottom side. I solved this finally by slightly tweaking the derailler hanger inward and by putting a strip of rubber via double sided tape to act as a guide to keep it on that lowest cog. That has worked now for 600+ miles. Still, kind of annoying. Don’t love the derailler but again, considering the price point it has worked fairly well. I did also bend a few teeth on the cog. This is likely user error downshifting under load and turbo. I was able to remove the cassette and pound them back into line easily enough with a punch. No biggie and we all know this can and does happen given the torque on eBikes. Also, at 1000 miles there is some slight skipping beginning to happen. The chain is still original and within spec but I’m likely going to change it soon and see how that goes. After that a new derailler, cassette, chainring and chain may be in order before 2000 miles.

The Guide brakes have been a pleasant surprise. I’m partial to Shimano but these have performed excellent for 1000 miles and I am actually still on the original pads! I check them every few rides and they are close to needed changed but still have some life left. No squishy in the brake lines and they have great feel and handle the weight of the eBike well. Very happy with them.

I did not “flip the chip” or do anything to the shock positioning. The rear (and front) shocks are still buttery smooth and performing perfectly.

The seat dropper post is beginning to get a bit of play but not too bad. Still, fully functional. I do not love having to take the shock out and mess with everything to extend or shorten the cable enough to move the seatpost. This is an internal seatpost routing issue but it’s a bummer as it makes it difficult to swap the bike to different riders easily.

There is some general creaking and clicking that has occurred as is normal in my experience for any bike around this mileage and in alloy. I have lubed and greased some points and that has helped. I will probably overhaul the suspension bearings at some point but movement is still great and I really see no need yet.

My only “complaint” if I had one would be the pedal strikes. It took me awhile to adjust coming from a bike with a considerably higher bottom bracket. And yes, even with the 165’s it strikes a lot. But I also know that’s part of the magic of this frame design downhill and keeping the weight low. I’ve adapted and the battery is pretty well protected. Overall the 165 are the right length and spinning on the eBikes is much more effective (and likely easier on the motor and drivetrain) than trying to push big gears.

Also, why no USB or other power ports on our Specialized eBikes? That is one think I liked on the Bulls. The ability to charge my phone or to hook lights up to the main bike battery. Seems like something Specialized would be all over. Accessory market!

So that’s it. 1000 in and still going strong! I’m already saving for my next one and this next time I’m going carbon! Happy trails!

eBike 1.jpg


eBike 2.jpg


eBike 3.jpg
 
Last edited:

Tim1023

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2020
646
565
Hamburg, Germany
Just a post to celebrate turning 1,000 miles on my Levo!

I am blessed to live in an area (Golden, Colorado USA) where eBiking opportunities abound between our county trails, state parks, and other public lands. Being a long time, very competitive MTB and Moto rider I have found the perfect synergy in eBikes and wanted to pass along my comments to the community at large and specifically anyone looking to jump into the eBike world and / or looking to purchase a new Levo.

I’m a statistics professor so I’ll start with some of that (and I’d love to get some stats from others if they have some of these.)

My 1000 Mile Stats:

2020 Levo Comp, Medium

Delivery Date / First Ride: 5/22/2020
Date hit 1000 mi: 10/22/20 (5 months from purchase, avg. 50 mi per week)

59 - Total rides
67 - Hours of riding (roughly)
55 - # of charges (I charge after most rides unless I have 70% or better depending on my ride plans)
117,772 feet - Total elevation gained
132,562 - Total elevation lost (some rides where I was dropped off higher and rode home)
44.96 mph - Highest speed
22,679.97 - Total calories burned (est)
52 miles, 4200 feet climbing, 159% support, 15% battery -Longest Ride
12.13 - Avg speed for all rides.
17.59 - Highest average speed on a ride (all out turbo with only 800’ elevation etc.)
159.06% - Lowest level of support
410.62% - Highest level of support
277.00 - Avg overall level of support

My 1000 Mile Notes:

Overall:

The eBike has me on the bike more than I have been in years. It motivates me to get out. I have explored more trails and ridden many trails I hadn’t in years! I am still getting plenty of exercise and likely more than I did with my standard MTB.

I use my bike mainly for trail riding but also for some commuting…or a combo of both which I love!

I feel that sharing trails is no problem at all with the possible exception of going “turbo” on someone’s tail on singletrack climbs and breathing down their neck. I consciously avoid this situation to assuage negative eBike opinions. I lower my assist level and simply pass when it’s possible and reasonable with a positive word to the other rider and then go on my way. In 1000 miles I have not had any negative interactions or comments from other trail users.

I can’t believe how much I enjoy eBiking over either regular MTB (with less opportunity to go as far in the same amount of time) or, dirt biking (which is loud and hard to deal with in technical terrain due to the weight of a moto.) eBiking is the perfect mix for me. I would not buy another regular MTB or a dirt bike at this point. All eMTB all the way! I love the mix of cardio but also the way it performs. Personally with my moto background I like the extra weight as it holds corners better and makes the suspension a bit more active. I certainly ride the eMTB differently than a light MTB where you can really throw it around. But, I love the glued and rail feeling of an eMTB on technical terrain and in swooping singletrack.

Up and down the Levo is the absolute best bike I’ve ever owned. I had a Bulls too…nice bike but not as nice as the Levo. I have considerable time on a 2019 Kenevo too and still…2020 Levo by far…700 battery of course but the overall quality and ride as well.

Bike Specific:

I can’t say enough about the 700 battery. Honestly, often times I only do an hour or so ride and don’t get anywhere near using much more than 50% of capacity (even at full turbo, 20+ miles and 3000+ feet of climbing.) But, it’s really nice to have it. I have ridden with some guys that have the 500 Levo and Kenevo and the two of us with the 700w Levo’s have a LOT more range if we are following similar battery saving riding techniques. On one ride that as about 32 miles and 4800 feet of climbing we all were saving battery but we rode a lot in our second mode (45%) and at the end we still had nearly 50% while they were down around 15% and had been riding in their lower modes most of the time trying to conserve battery. So even if we had wanted to go longer (and we could have), we had to cut the ride short for the 500 watters.

I have not de-restricted my bike nor do I have plans to. When commuting (on roads) sometimes a higher assist speed would be nice and would result in being passed a bit less by cars on certain roads. But, based on the Levo’s gearing it would also mean likely having to change the gearing to optimize the higher speed as well as reduced battery range (although with the 700w…not sure that would be a huge issue.) Offroad it’s rare I would ever want higher speed…maybe on flat dirt roads but it’s great as is and I want to keep it a Class 1 and be able to use Mission Control accurately (rather than Blevo etc. which modification would necessitate to get accurate mileage etc.)

I did get the firmware update installed but not before I had about 600 miles on the bike. One thing I had done was to make my maximum on level 3 only 95% and my response about 80%. Not sure if this saved some stress on my motor but I have certainly cranked on it on some very steep obstacles and climbs. But, at 1000 miles, my motor is original and has had no issues at all. It was a later 2020 shipped bike and from what I can tell on the motor serial number, is likely to have been “fixed” and not have the prior belt slipping issue. I think. At any rate, it seems just as powerful as and quiet as it has since the beginning.

The battery still says 100% health in Mission Control.

I had issues with the rims sealing for tubeless. The strips included did not entirely seal it well enough to keep some leakage through the spoke nipple holes. I tried some Stans tape and that was worthless. It would not stick to the rims at all even after thorough cleaning. Waste of money. I taped them twice around (covering all the spoke nipple holes) with good quality electrical tape, installed the specialized rim strip over that and it’s been perfect since then with zero leaking or PSI loss.

I ditched the Specialized grips for some fatter and softer ones. No biggie. I’d like to try a carbon bar and may in the future to see if it reduced hand fatigue a bit but so far it’s been fine. I did go to a slightly longer stem given my height (5’9”.) I know most would say I should be on a large but I like the medium and find it a bit more manageable. I am in-between but just saying…you can be a bit taller and still do fine on a medium. (It’s all that was available anyway in May of last year….the Larges were gone.) The dropper post is still plenty long to accommodate me and well below the max height line on the post.

The front stock tire (Butcher) is still going (and still looking) okay at 1000 miles. The rear I had to replace around 200. It was simply not stout enough for me (at 172 lbs). I like to think I’m a rather finesse rider but I was pinching it and had to run too high of PSI. Sidewalls were not standing up to the rocks here either. I looked at rim inserts but ultimately just went with a DHR Minion full DH casing and it’s been perfect now for near 500 miles on a lot of rough terrain. So, with that I don't see the need for any inserts unless I really wanted to run lower pressure (and I'm running 24-26 psi.) I don’t run very low pressure because regardless of what tire I run on the stock rims they also seem to be able to break the bead and leak around the bead a bit too easy. I have dented the rear rim a few times and pulled them out with covered channel locks easily (maybe too easily...seem a bit flimsy at the lip). The stock rims (Rovals) on the comp are in my opinion…so-so but that’s acceptable to me considering the price point of the bike.

I upgraded the fork to the better internal dampener from Rock Shock and have 160mm of travel now. That is really nice and I did notice it. As is a commonly known issue, the stock 150 in the Lyrik for this year had a lot of sag and the new dampener solves that and gives it more travel. Very happy with this mod for $40.

I did have some shifting issues with the GX derailler out of the box. Personally I don’t love the auto-clutch. With narrow-wide I’m not sure it’s needed all the time and puts more wear on components. Beyond that though, the high setting no matter what I did (my friends was the same way) would on occasion slip off the cog down onto the frame and wear a groove in the alloy. If I adjusted the derailler to where it wouldn’t do this it would skip and didn’t have enough range on the bottom side. I solved this finally by slightly tweaking the derailler hanger inward and by putting a strip of rubber via double sided tape to act as a guide to keep it on that lowest cog. That has worked now for 600+ miles. Still, kind of annoying. Don’t love the derailler but again, considering the price point it has worked fairly well. I did also bend a few teeth on the cog. This is likely user error downshifting under load and turbo. I was able to remove the cassette and pound them back into line easily enough with a punch. No biggie and we all know this can and does happen given the torque on eBikes. Also, at 1000 miles there is some slight skipping beginning to happen. The chain is still original and within spec but I’m likely going to change it soon and see how that goes. After that a new derailler, cassette, chainring and chain may be in order before 2000 miles.

The Guide brakes have been a pleasant surprise. I’m partial to Shimano but these have performed excellent for 1000 miles and I am actually still on the original pads! I check them every few rides and they are close to needed changed but still have some life left. No squishy in the brake lines and they have great feel and handle the weight of the eBike well. Very happy with them.

I did not “flip the chip” or do anything to the shock positioning. The rear (and front) shocks are still buttery smooth and performing perfectly.

The seat dropper post is beginning to get a bit of play but not too bad. Still, fully functional. I do not love having to take the shock out and mess with everything to extend or shorten the cable enough to move the seatpost. This is an internal seatpost routing issue but it’s a bummer as it makes it difficult to swap the bike to different riders easily.

There is some general creaking and clicking that has occurred as is normal in my experience for any bike around this mileage and in alloy. I have lubed and greased some points and that has helped. I will probably overhaul the suspension bearings at some point but movement is still great and I really see no need yet.

My only “complaint” if I had one would be the pedal strikes. It took me awhile to adjust coming from a bike with a considerably higher bottom bracket. And yes, even with the 165’s it strikes a lot. But I also know that’s part of the magic of this frame design downhill and keeping the weight low. I’ve adapted and the battery is pretty well protected. Overall the 165 are the right length and spinning on the eBikes is much more effective (and likely easier on the motor and drivetrain) than trying to push big gears.

Also, why no USB or other power ports on our Specialized eBikes? That is one think I liked on the Bulls. The ability to charge my phone or to hook lights up to the main bike battery. Seems like something Specialized would be all over. Accessory market!

So that’s it. 1000 in and still going strong! I’m already saving for my next one and this next time I’m going carbon! Happy trails!

View attachment 42625

View attachment 42626

View attachment 42627
Thanks for the report! I completely agree about the USB port! I ended up going for a Raveman 1600 light for commuting as it has a USB out for charging phones, etc. I actually have a NOTSTRØM power bank from znex, but it irks me deeply to have to plant a battery on the side on my ebike.

And you just have to tell us about that saddle! How is it what you're right forwards for the climbs?
 

GL1

Member
Oct 22, 2020
78
37
Golden, Colorado USA
Thanks all. Yes, on the USB port...Bulls has done it among others. The power is right there and it would only be a few more dollars to Specialized to add. Maybe in the future...

On the saddle...yes, I had thought that someone might point that out. So in full disclosure to my eBike brethren...I'm over 40 now and had a few prostate issues a year or so ago. It was bad enough that I gave up riding (after over 20 years) for an entire year. I was desperate to find anything that would get me back on the bike. When I first tried the Aeroelastic AE Eyes saddle I immediately put it back in the box. It was so awkward and I never thought I could use it. I even tried to return it and then sell it. After trying a bunch of others that still put some pressure on that area I went to it again with the resolve to see if I could make it work. It took a solid week, maybe 100 miles or so, but just as I'd read with others I fully adjusted. Now I don't even know it's there and ride all the tech etc. that I used to. Not going to lie...you have to watch out for that nose a little but it's situated considerably below the sit bone pads so even climbs do not bring it into contact and it's better than the fully noseless I tried because those still had some pressure and, the I found that having a nose is critical to me for control etc. So it's the best I've found and I have over 1000 miles on it now. I have one on my road bike too. Hey, whatever...it got me back on a bike. Kudos to my buddies for putting up with me though with that contraption on there. And yes, you don't want to slip off on the nose too often lol. You can see my review for the saddle on Amazon. I have talked with the designer / maker a few times. Great guy who had similar issues and came up with a solution that I am very grateful for.
 

Tim1023

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2020
646
565
Hamburg, Germany
Thanks all. Yes, on the USB port...Bulls has done it among others. The power is right there and it would only be a few more dollars to Specialized to add. Maybe in the future...

On the saddle...yes, I had thought that someone might point that out. So in full disclosure to my eBike brethren...I'm over 40 now and had a few prostate issues a year or so ago. It was bad enough that I gave up riding (after over 20 years) for an entire year. I was desperate to find anything that would get me back on the bike. When I first tried the Aeroelastic AE Eyes saddle I immediately put it back in the box. It was so awkward and I never thought I could use it. I even tried to return it and then sell it. After trying a bunch of others that still put some pressure on that area I went to it again with the resolve to see if I could make it work. It took a solid week, maybe 100 miles or so, but just as I'd read with others I fully adjusted. Now I don't even know it's there and ride all the tech etc. that I used to. Not going to lie...you have to watch out for that nose a little but it's situated considerably below the sit bone pads so even climbs do not bring it into contact and it's better than the fully noseless I tried because those still had some pressure and, the I found that having a nose is critical to me for control etc. So it's the best I've found and I have over 1000 miles on it now. I have one on my road bike too. Hey, whatever...it got me back on a bike. Kudos to my buddies for putting up with me though with that contraption on there. And yes, you don't want to slip off on the nose too often lol. You can see my review for the saddle on Amazon. I have talked with the designer / maker a few times. Great guy who had similar issues and came up with a solution that I am very grateful for.
Just had a read of their website. Interesting!
 

GL1

Member
Oct 22, 2020
78
37
Golden, Colorado USA
Okay! Just over 2000 miles as of today! So an update:

2020 Levo Comp, Medium
Delivery Date / First Ride: 5/22/2020
Date hit 2000 mi: 8/27/2021

2058.77 - Total miles as of 8/27/2021
172 - Total rides
177 - Hours of riding (roughly)
55,649 - Calories burned (roughly)
55 - # of charges on first battery (2020 / first 1k miles - I charge after most rides unless I have 70% or better depending on my ride plans)
25 - # of charges on second battery (New / warranty as of 2021)
258,679 feet - Total elevation gained
44.96 mph - Highest speed
11.76 - Avg speed for all rides.
17.59 - Highest average speed on a ride (all out turbo with only 800’ elevation etc.)
122.21% - Lowest level of support
439.57% - Highest level of support
240.93% - Avg overall level of support
383.62 - Avg Consumption
117.00 - Lowest Consumption
658.00 - Highest Consumption
55.80 miles / 7,338 elevation / 5 hrs 22 min - Longest Ride. Still had about 8% battery. Mostly 30% assist with a little 50% at end.

*I do feel this was about it's max without another battery. I had to see how close I could get on a single ride. Longer with less elevation of course.


POINTS TO PONDER

I went with a mullet setup in 2021 and LOVE it! As such, I had to switch over to Strava to get accurate stats (that or Blevo) since Mission Control (even the newest version as of today 8/27/2021) does not support a 27.5 wheel even though the bike was designed for it. :rolleyes:


PART REPLACEMENTS / UPGRADES

I am still on the ORIGINAL motor! No issues at all although I do feel it has a little less snap and a little more noise but it's not too perceptible. I still have the 4 year warranty so at the pace I'm going with roughly 1k miles / year we will see if it goes 4k in 4 years or goes before the warranty. I had all hardware and firmware upgrades as soon as they were available and I never allowed 100% full power (had max at 95%.) I believe my 2020 was shipped later in the year so from what I've read I think it has the "better" or "upgraded" motor and belt?

It did have a battery warranty at the very beginning of the year. It simply died. Had the two flashing green lights and would not charge. The bike would not turn on. The LBS believes it was from charging it when cold. I always keep it inside my garage which rarely gets below 50 degrees and carry it inside the car in the winter to and from my snow riding spots. The LBS said hitting it with a charge if it's cold is bad. That's their theory. IDK. I did start keeping the battery / bike inside. 25 charges on the new battery and no issues. Warranty was a snap and no questions asked. Took a week and the battery came with a new plastic guard too (which was good as I had cracked the one on the original.)

I have not done anything to increase or change the speed limiter. For most of my rides it wouldn't matter. Now that I have a 34 tooth chainring maybe it would on some flat roads etc. but I don't want to mess with warranty and it really doesn't matter to me much to go faster on flats which is the only place I'd even feel it. I have ridden a de-restriced Kenevo and was not overly impressed or felt it was something I really wanted for most of my riding (up's and down's offroad...so not a lot of flat commuting etc.)

I upgraded to alloy eCrossmax wheels (eBike specific Crossmax version.) Very happy with them. The original wheels were okay but the rear got beat. Flimsy for an ebike.

I have found that any regular front tire is fine. I like the Specialized Eliminator Grid 2.6. For rear I have found that the only tire that has really held up has been the Maxxis High Roller II DH Double Down. I can get near 500 miles from one of these and no rim bites if I run fairly high pressure. Even a Maxxis Minion DH only lasted a few hundred miles. I like a 2.3 on the back with my mullet setup. It feels quicker in the turns and accelerating. I have been thinking of trying a Cush Core in the rear to run lower psi but the DD has pretty much given me the durability I'm after and I'm happy with slightly higher PSI.

Brakes are original and have been bled twice. I did have to replace the rear brake line as it wore a hole where it enters the frame a bit after 1000 miles. I added some protection (see pic below) to try and keep that happening. I also changed out the rear derailler housing at the same time since I was in there. It's not easy per se, but it did go better than I thought wrestling the new cable into position. There are guides to keep everything pretty straight.

I added carbon bars. Easier on the hands / arms. Or at least I think it is.

I had to fashion a few things to keep the driveline in order. I added some protection around the chainring and a "guide" around the rear to keep the chain on as it would at times hop down on the frame and nothing I did adjustment-wise corrected this.

I've had to replace pedals twice and pins get bent. I have learned to watch the lower bottom bracket on these (which I don't love up but do love down with the lower center of gravity.) Still, I've whacked them pretty good on more than one occasion and all has held up.


IMPRESSIONS

For me and my experience, I'm pretty impressed. The thing is holding up and going the distance as you can see. It's so easy to put miles on eBikes, they need to be "overbuilt" in my opinion. eBike specific and stouter parts should be used. This can be evidenced by some of the components. For example, I feel the chainring (being Praxis steel) went the distance up to 2000 miles (and probably would have gone more if I hadn't upgraded to a 34 tooth.) But, the cassettes and chains are lucky to get 1000 miles. The rear wheel didn't make it past 1000 miles and forget about the stock tires. For rear especially, a double-down DH tire is in order for most riders.

Dropper Fusion Manic post - It's gone the distance.

Rock Shox Lyrik and Deluxe - They've both gone the distance. No rebuilds even. Both feel great still. I pretty much set and forget. I have added a bit more PSI for some jumping at the bike park.

Wheels - Stock are junky and flimsy for eBiking. The eCrossmax were a good upgrade and burlier.

Tires - Stock front is fine. Rear won't last 100 miles with real MTB. Go full DH double down and / or experiment with a Cush Core in the rear.

Drivetrain - The GX derailler has gone the distance. Front Praxis chainring in steel has held up well although I think for many riders, a 34 would be a better stock option than a 32. After two SRAM chains and cassettes I think they could go with burlier versions of each. The cassette has been eating into my freehub body. They should do a steel cassette with pinned cogs to keep them from moving independently with the power of the eBike and eating into the freehub body. I ordered a pinned cheaper steel one on Amazon. We'll see.

Brakes - Happily surprised. Don't love them but they have gone the distance with only ONE pad change in 2000 miles (and note the amount of elevation I have gained (which is then similar or a bit less than what I've descended.)

Everything else (minus the battery warranty) has been pretty impressive. So my short list would be that stock tires, rear wheel, cassette and chain are lacking. All else has gone the 2k miles distance very well!

Will I make over 4000 miles in the 4 year warranty period? We will see!


SHORT "IMPROVEMENT" LIST FOR SPECIALIZED

1) USB ports! PLEASE! My Bulls had this and it was sweet for night riding light plug in's and phone charging! Think of the accessories!

2) Burlier wheels and tires stock!

3) Burlier chain and cassette (and a pinned cassette please!)

4) Burlier bottom bracket / battery / bash guard.

5) Possibly better "padding" to protect the rear brake line (maybe others) from cable wear.

6) Can Mission Control please support 27.5 rear / mullet setup? The bike is designed for it. How does this work with 2022?

That's it!





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GL1

Member
Oct 22, 2020
78
37
Golden, Colorado USA
Well...so after all my 2000 mile bragging a few weeks ago guess what? Today the motor went. I had suspicions on the last few rides that it was slipping and today there was NO question. Gone. So right around 2200 miles and it's at the LBS for warranty and they were able to replicate the issue and confirmed it's the common belt issue. I'll update after I get it back.

I will say that it began slipping a few rides ago and I heard it. It would slip a little but then still grab enough to get assistance so I wasn't entirely sure. It also felt like it had a "power band" of some sort that I was not used to where it was lacking low power but still assisting at higher speeds. Today on a climb it was unmistakable and began slipping like crazy and quickly. Over a mile or so it was basically dead with zero assist and obvious slipping on any kind of hill no matter how slight. So I'd say it went from the first I began noticing it slipping a little or acting funny to full slipping that would not grab at all within about 50-75 miles. Before this it MAY have been losing some power but I can't say I could tell for sure. It seems like it's slowly been losing power for awhile.

It was also worse as it worked more and got hotter on the climb. After it cooled down on the descent and even now, on flat it will still grab some but when you put power / torque down or try and go up a hill it will start slipping and is very obvious. When it was hot from climbing it even stopped on it's own and gave the flashing blue and red lights once. It was getting some kind of error code from lack of signal / resistance or maybe heat. I was almost at the top of a particular climb so when it did this I just pushed it up to the pinnacle and then rode / coasted it down to the parking lot as I knew it was done and didn't want or need to damage anything.

I love the bike and for me as you know from my previous posts it's been great but it seems I did finally wear the motor out right over 2000 miles and 270,000' of climbing. Maybe that's good? I'm not sure what the engineering expectation of these is? Maybe we (and the Spec engineers) are still figuring out the benchmark.

VERY HAPPY there is a 4 year warranty on these and excited to get my new motor!
 

wattermelon1

Member
May 7, 2019
4
1
Utah
Please give me the specs for your new wheels. I have destroyed my stock rear wheel and want to go with the mullet set up and I got the 27.5 rear wheel with the proper disk and cassette size but found that there was not enough room on the wheel I got to fit the magnet unit to make the motor engage. Any advice or info you can give will be helpful. Thanks.
 

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