2019 Powerfly 9.7 LT + US

S

Standingwaves

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Climbs incredibly well. Decends as fast as you want.
Put on a fatbar carbon V2 I had for another project, WTB seat and XTR spd.
Updates:
Raceface Next R 35mm Carbon and RF Turbine R stem
Nukeproof Horizon CS Ti trail pedals.
Ergon GE1 Slim
SQlabs 60X saddle
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62mi so far and hasn't disappointed. The plus tyres take loads of abuse and instill confidence on tree roots, rocks and cornering. Suspension is dialed in using the online calculator. The climbing is unreal and can float the front wheel. I pass my Levo and Haibike buddies on a few local climbs. A little more effort to tug up on the bars if coming up on a deep rut from rain but since I'm clipless I jump the whole bike and float over such obstacles. Drops as well, hit them at speed and no problem.
Fit and finish is top notch with the paint being top spec I hate to think of it hitting the dirt... I had a few moments but was able to save it and stay upright.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Cheers
 
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Thanks man that's pretty accurate description of what my friends PF7 and PF8 feel like on all our local trails. Did you consider the Levo before you bought the Trek?
 
Yes, Levo is still on the shortlist. The price for the Powerfly 9.7 carbon at my LBS was $2300USD cheaper than the Levo Comp Carbon....might revisit Spesh in 2021+ after they've sorted out a few things.
 
Have you rode the new Levo? I was able to ride one in Charlotte NC and it was great. Still doesn't compare when it comes to motor performance on the Trek. Haven't had a chance to ride the 9.7 but I would think the 160 ,150 suspension combo would be spot on for 90% of my riding in NC.
 
D6LGP said:
Have you rode the new Levo? I was able to ride one in Charlotte NC and it was great. Still doesn't compare when it comes to motor performance on the Trek. Haven't had a chance to ride the 9.7 but I would think the 160 ,150 suspension combo would be spot on for 90% of my riding in NC.
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Yes,
But only around a parking lot. I went back to the Trek the next day....
106mi now. The climbing on this thing is unreal. Soaks up anything on the way down once suspension is dialed in.
 
Wondering what kind of range you get on the 9.7? We barely made 18 miles riding hard in mostly turbo. Would you consider a second battery and do you think it will be to big to carry in a pack?
 
That’s about right.

A second battery is useful but I wouldn’t fancy lugging one around with me, I’d rather plan rides that allow you to swap it out from the car.
 
Lots of factors go into range. Terrain, hills..etc. I did one full charge to dead battery ride and it was over 4 days. Mostly fire roads, asphalt with two hill climbs. Spent most of the time in ECO and Tour with the climbs in eMTB. A few starts in Turbo (awesome power!) I was at 32mi when it shut down. I planned a few Turbo hill climb rides around 8mi each and yes there was about 8-7 miles left on the range. Plan your routes and dial the mode accordingly. Now at 178miles and absolutely love it. Never had so much downhill time ?
 
Raceface Next R 35mm Carbon and RF Turbine R stem
Nukeproof Horizon CS Ti trail pedals.
Ergon GE1 Slim
SQlabs 60X saddle
201 flawless.miles
Thank you TREK !

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Doomanic said:
That’s about right.

A second battery is useful but I wouldn’t fancy lugging one around with me, I’d rather plan rides that allow you to swap it out from the car.
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I made a small investment in ties and a small aluminum block and a second battery; see the result. No anxiety range, I can take on any trail. I covered the bat with a wine bag ($6.00)

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on the trail .JPG
 
You would then swap all the battery plastics and hardware over if your battery dies? I guess it's not that hard. Protip: you don't need to really bother with the 2x very tiny/long M3 screws at each end that thread into the painted metal cover with the Trek logo. Just the larger screws.
 
protowheeler said:
You would then swap all the battery plastics and hardware over if your battery dies? I guess it's not that hard. Protip: you don't need to really bother with the 2x very tiny/long M3 screws at each end that thread into the painted metal cover with the Trek logo. Just the larger screws.
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, I trained myself to do the job in about 3 minutes, I have T10 and T20 drivers and extra scraws just in case I lose on in the "sand". The big payoff is no anxiety I can ride as long as I want and use the "Turbo" mode without fear.
 
Jacob Shavit said:
, I trained myself to do the job in about 3 minutes, I have T10 and T20 drivers and extra scraws just in case I lose on in the "sand". The big payoff is no anxiety I can ride as long as I want and use the "Turbo" mode without fear.
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I also would point out that I am 73 and I ride for the fun of it about 70% fire roads and cutover on a single. So I do not take a lot of "air" in my age you need to stay on the ground most of the time (before going under....). I have done some long trips on rough ground and the battery did not move.
 
protowheeler said:
You would then swap all the battery plastics and hardware over if your battery dies? I guess it's not that hard. Protip: you don't need to really bother with the 2x very tiny/long M3 screws at each end that thread into the painted metal cover with the Trek logo. Just the larger screws.
Click to expand...
I also would point out that I am 73 and I ride for the fun of it about 70% fire roads and cutover on a single. So I do not take a lot of "air" in my age you need to stay on the ground most of the time (before going under....). I have done some long trips on rough ground and the battery did not move.
 
PaulBlair said:
Looks good! How much is?
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Well, not much, the battery cost about $800, the small aluminum block that I drilled to fit the cover scraws was a negligible cost, the short straps are about $10. The aluminum block is there to make sure the battery does not slide down (just in case).
 
Nice DIY extended range batt.. can you go +50mi?

I've got 671mi on the 9.7 with NO issues.
 
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