100km Rides on EMTB

Macone

E*POWAH Master
Oct 28, 2018
163
230
Wellington New Zealand
your 50k rides, will have to turn into 60k rides, then 70k rides, then 80k rides, e.t.c. you are wasting your time (and money) looking for short cuts, it makes no difference if you are riding a road bike, a gravel bike, a hard tail or a full susser, just gotta put the time and k's in
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
your 50k rides, will have to turn into 60k rides, then 70k rides, then 80k rides, e.t.c. you are wasting your time (and money) looking for short cuts, it makes no difference if you are riding a road bike, a gravel bike, a hard tail or a full susser, just gotta put the time and k's in

My daily commute is about 10k each way then on certain days I’ll take a much longer way home. You’re right, there’s some adjustments I can make but in the end it’s building up endurance!
 

Pdoz

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Feb 16, 2019
1,112
1,206
Maffra Victoria Australia
I never even thought of the impact of the tyres to be honest. I guess my 50 km ride was about 60% paved roads.

If that is the case, I’ll never get up to 100k on them.... my back and shoulders feel ok on the rides so I hadn’t thought about my position.

I think unfortunately the seat is as far forward as it will go but I can tilt it back slightly to hopefully take a little more weight off of my hands

Thanks for your input!

Ok, so 60 % road might explain the sore butt- life is way too short to sit spinning pedals on the road. Hit the trails, use that dropper post and suddenly a sore butt is the least of your issues!

On a slightly more serious note, What I do on longer transports is vary my seat height so my butt to seat position changes slightly - drop it 5/10 mm for a few minutes then raise it back up again.

You could also pump the rear shock up " too much" +/- drop the forks a bit during a ride ( it'd at least give your butt a rest whilst you did the pumping) .

CHANGES to ergonomics can be just as effective as " good" ergonomics as you start getting fatigued - and knowing WHEN to do them .
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
Ok, so 60 % road might explain the sore butt- life is way too short to sit spinning pedals on the road. Hit the trails, use that dropper post and suddenly a sore butt is the least of your issues!

On a slightly more serious note, What I do on longer transports is vary my seat height so my butt to seat position changes slightly - drop it 5/10 mm for a few minutes then raise it back up again.

You could also pump the rear shock up " too much" +/- drop the forks a bit during a ride ( it'd at least give your butt a rest whilst you did the pumping) .

CHANGES to ergonomics can be just as effective as " good" ergonomics as you start getting fatigued - and knowing WHEN to do them .

There is so much to consider here. Wow.

I have checked the sag on the rear shock and it was around 40% so way too much. I have locked it out now to reduce that sag - now at 20% until I can get some air in.

Good point on the dropper post, that will definitely help on fatigue.

I was riding with my wife so I’ll reserve the exclusive trail riding to my solo rides, but you have given me some excellent pointers. Thank you
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
Are you aware the bar controller on the full e limits grip choices? ( it has a bit that clamps under the grip) . Hopefully It may be possible to modify whatever you have ordered.

For the motor power you mean? In that it gets in the way?

I Ordered These (ergon ga3)
Will they work?
 

Pdoz

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Feb 16, 2019
1,112
1,206
Maffra Victoria Australia
For the motor power you mean? In that it gets in the way?

I Ordered These (ergon ga3)
Will they work?

The button thing adjacent to the left handgrip - it's easiest to explain if you remove your grip and take a look, but that switch thingy has a notch thingy that sort of clamps under the grip clamp thingy - so you need to either use giant grips or be prepared to file / dremel / negotiate with whatever you buy. I think giant do an " ergo max" which might be worth looking for if you really want this style, I fitted the giant swage lock on but I'll go out on a limb here and say I'm not a fan of those style of " ergo" grips - this is bias from about 40 years ago , but I remember them locking my grip on the bars and at least on a bmx they reduced control. I know they are popular amongst commuters so will bow to their greater long distance knowledge.
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
The button thing adjacent to the left handgrip - it's easiest to explain if you remove your grip and take a look, but that switch thingy has a notch thingy that sort of clamps under the grip clamp thingy - so you need to either use giant grips or be prepared to file / dremel / negotiate with whatever you buy. I think giant do an " ergo max" which might be worth looking for if you really want this style, I fitted the giant swage lock on but I'll go out on a limb here and say I'm not a fan of those style of " ergo" grips - this is bias from about 40 years ago , but I remember them locking my grip on the bars and at least on a bmx they reduced control. I know they are popular amongst commuters so will bow to their greater long distance knowledge.

Crap. Year they won’t fit then. I’ve cancelled them now. I’ll look into the ergo max and the others you mentioned. My balance of commuting is probably 80/20 so it’s probably advantageous to set my bike up a little more commuter focussed
 

Clausguld

Member
Mar 25, 2019
33
25
Denmark
I had the same problem With my full-e 2. I normally ride 150km a week mixed on and of road, I done this the last 6-7 year. After 400km on the giant I change the seat, never get use to it
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,702
the internet
I think unfortunately the seat is as far forward as it will go but I can tilt it back slightly to hopefully take a little more weight off of my hands

Work on your core strength and flexibility.

to increase core strength simply ride stood up much more. pump, bunny hop and manual more (or learn to).
No dull indoor gym work required.
You'll be amazed how much stronger your core can become after just a few weeks of riding like this.
lower back/shoulder/neckflexibility can be increased with simple yoga. eg. a 5min "salute to the sun" routine every morning
 
Last edited:

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
I had the same problem With my full-e 2. I normally ride 150km a week mixed on and of road, I done this the last 6-7 year. After 400km on the giant I change the seat, never get use to it

What was the problem with it? For me it just put too much pressure on my ass bones
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
Work on your core strength and flexibility.

to increase core strength simply ride stood up much more. pump, bunny hop and manual more (or learn to).
No dull indoor gym work required.
You'll be amazed how much stronger your core can become after just a few weeks of riding like this.
lower back/shoulder/neckflexibility can be increased with simple yoga. eg. a 5min "salute to the sun" routine every morning

I’ll do all of these things thank you! I do also try to remind myself that some of the “weight” should be better dispersed by my non existent core strength and not just rely on my arms on the bars to support my upper body
 

Pdoz

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Feb 16, 2019
1,112
1,206
Maffra Victoria Australia
I've got 1200 km on my full e seat, no fancy pants, just zero interest in being bored - so if my bum is getting sore I'll get up on the pegs for a while and practice manuals / bunny hops / zig zag around a little.
 

100 Cols

Member
Mar 9, 2018
103
152
Côte d'Azur, France
I agree on many things written here (but not all!).

I commute, climb mountains, do 5+ hours road trips with my roadie friends, ride sunday leisure rides with my wife as well as bike tourism now and then. Full suspension eMTB is remarkably good for all these activities and most comfortable "endurance road bike" I've ever ridden, even though that opinion is a heresy for traditionalists.

My thoughts on riding long distances:

- "Ergo grips" are no good, they allow only one good riding position, which is exactly something one should avoid on long endurance rides.
- I have found inner bar ends are a great solution. They enable multiple hand positions (similar to riding on hoods on a road bike) and allow avoiding "arms wide open" riding position. https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=192456;menu=1000,2,14
- Actively using the dropper post helps avoiding saddle sore. Drop the saddle on downhills, move your azz backwards and go low. Regularly changing your riding position helps a lot.
- Maybe get yourself another set of of wheels and tyres, one for commute and road/gravel riding, one for harder mtb stuff. E.g. Schwalbe G-One is fast and silky smooth for gravel and road riding. Tyre comfort is important for endurance (excepting the "harden the fu:k up" people of course).
- Personally I've found that Fabric Scoop Radius Gel is really comfy, but as said before, saddle is a highly personal choice.
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
I agree on many things written here (but not all!).

I commute, climb mountains, do 5+ hours road trips with my roadie friends, ride sunday leisure rides with my wife as well as bike tourism now and then. Full suspension eMTB is remarkably good for all these activities and most comfortable "endurance road bike" I've ever ridden, even though that opinion is a heresy for traditionalists.

My thoughts on riding long distances:

- "Ergo grips" are no good, they allow only one good riding position, which is exactly something one should avoid on long endurance rides.
- I have found inner bar ends are a great solution. They enable multiple hand positions (similar to riding on hoods on a road bike) and allow avoiding "arms wide open" riding position. https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=192456;menu=1000,2,14
- Actively using the dropper post helps avoiding saddle sore. Drop the saddle on downhills, move your azz backwards and go low. Regularly changing your riding position helps a lot.
- Maybe get yourself another set of of wheels and tyres, one for commute and road/gravel riding, one for harder mtb stuff. E.g. Schwalbe G-One is fast and silky smooth for gravel and road riding. Tyre comfort is important for endurance (excepting the "harden the fu:k up" people of course).
- Personally I've found that Fabric Scoop Radius Gel is really comfy, but as said before, saddle is a highly personal choice.

I had never even heard of inner bar grips. I have a lot going on in my cockpit though so I don’t know where they might fit (bike mode changer, screen, phone, seat dropper, gear levers) but I used to ride road bikes on tri bars so maybe these grips work too

I remember once having a fabric saddle, I’ll look into that again.

Thanks!!
 

Nailz

New Member
Apr 11, 2019
40
13
Frankfurt, Germany
Work on your core strength and flexibility.

to increase core strength simply ride stood up much more. pump, bunny hop and manual more (or learn to).
No dull indoor gym work required.
You'll be amazed how much stronger your core can become after just a few weeks of riding like this.
lower back/shoulder/neckflexibility can be increased with simple yoga. eg. a 5min "salute to the sun" routine every morning

Just wanted to add I took your advice last night. Riding stood up bouncing about, going down all the tracks instead of paths. I’ve been riding a commuter bike for so long I had forgotten how much fun it can be to ride an MTB. I felt like a kid again. Especially with the EPOWAH!

Thanks!!
 

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