I replace my rotors every 4th set of pads. I measure them too, but don't push the limits of wear anymore. Usually rotors don't wear completely evenly and as the wear performance drops off. Of course I'm only getting 300ish miles out of a set of pads and 1200 on a rotor.
It's actually pretty easy to measure battery degradation if you have the correct tools. The BMS could do this, but most manufactures don't share this information.
The internal resistance gives a near perfect picture of the health of the battery. To test it you need to keep place a constant...
Get a wifi controlled plug. Then you can set timers, programs for early morning charging and even start charging from work so it's ready when you get home.
As others have said.
Let it cool after a ride
Keep it at 60%
Charge to 100% just before you ride. This balances the batteries and as...
The motors and electronics are identical. All 700 batteries are the same as well. S-works is just the parts bolted to it.
There are 3 Levo frames with decreasing total weight limits. 300lb aluminum, 275lb heavy carbon(comp) and 240lb light carbon(expert and s-works).
I get closer to 25-30 miles per cycle and 7000ft+ climbing. Not all miles are equal. All of mine are straight up or straight down. I'm very tall and tend to wear out parts fast, even with proper care.
Proper care vs just plug it in and don't worry about it will increase it's lifetime 2-3x.
So many people don't care and are proud of it. It's like the shocks on your car they wear out so slow it's hard to notice the day to day degradation
A well cared for battery should last 12-15kmiles. At...
I jump off 10+ foot drops and am 200lbs. Bottoming out the suspension at least 100 times in the last 2 years. With a 600lb spring that's over 1800lbs on the yoke, pivots and close to 800lbs on the wheels and fork.
If you drop a bike to shake off the water and it breaks, well you get the idea.
4300 miles on my kenevo. Original motor.
15+ sets of brake pads. 1 full set of bearings and a couple sets shock yoke bearings.
Custom build and it's holding up great
For my bike setup 180 lack the power to stop me, 200 work but requires too much hand force and I can feel them overload on 1 section of trail. 220 give me the best feel and more consistent braking. Better consistency leads to more confidence in where the limit is.
I have experienced this on my...
During prolonged threshold braking the interface of the pad and rotor reach a temperature range that starts to decrease the friction coefficient. At this point you need to pull harder to keep the same breaking rate. Adding more pressure doesn't add a linear amount of stopping power...
Stopping distance is not just a matter of crushing the level and locking the wheel.
There is a ramp in power from the hydraulic system.
There is a ramp in power from the temperature rise of the pads and rotor.
There is a decrease in power as gas is expelled from the pads and forms a boundary...
It's not just a physics argument.
You are trying to extract maximum stopping distance in an analog system with consequences.
If was as simple as can the brake produce more friction than the tire over the stopping distance, we would be done.
The answer is NO, adding additional brake power...
You would need to de-restrict, fit road style tires and put a bigger chainring on.
Even then you will get accelerated wear of the chain and cassette. Only using the small cogs on the rear wears them at a high rate.
A road style ebike should have a 50 front chainring.