Been there, done that. That was the first thing I did. It worked for a little while and now it’s back. I’ve already been to my local Bosch dealer and there were several error codes, but most of them were a battery short. The battery is still under warranty, so I’m trying to get it replaced...
I have two batteries for mine, one 750w, (the one that came with the bike) and a 500w that I bought more recently. The problem I have only happens when I’m using the original 750w battery, and not with the newer 500w battery, so I’m pretty sure it’s the battery for mine.
I don’t think there were any specific bad batches per sey. I have heard that heavier riders who schralped their bikes hard in berms and whipped their bikes sideways off jumps and landed off center or possibly had rear suspension settings that were either too stiff or too soft and had repeated...
I actually don’t have mine setup to be poppy. I ride a lot of chunky stuff and I like to be able to plow it, so my setup reflects that. But because my bike is built up full 27.5 and a bit lighter than stock builds, it still handles jumps well and turns pretty quick considering how big it is...
I mean, it makes perfect sense. That’s what I wanted from the very beginning and it’s why I got my Voima and built it up with a 40. It’s a DH bike you can self shuttle and it pedals so efficiently and climbs so great, you can literally ride anything with it.
Well that settles it, I guess I’ll enter Rampage instead of the WC. 😂 Really though, I feel like air shocks are better for e-bikes because of extra weight of the bike and the air shock being progressive handles that better. Also because of the extra weight of e-bikes, the initial stiction of air...
I’m pretty sure more than half of the field on WCDH are on air shocks. It’s not the travel, it’s just a preference. But air shocks are more progressive, more adjustable and easier to add or remove air than to change springs. Also a little lighter too. I prefer air shocks, but different strokes...
It is difficult to get off. The bracket slides on a zig-zag set of rails. I got mine off by gently prying it up and backwards while pulling on it. You need to wiggle and pull away, towards the bottom of the down tube. It will come off.
The purpose for rotating chains is to extend the drivetrain life, because as the chain stretches out, the chainring and cassette teeth will wear faster, but if you rotate chains, the stretching doesn’t happen as fast and your chainring and cassette will last longer. Waxing also extends the...
I currently Rotate 2 chains on each of my bikes and I rotate them when i can feel when the chain is in need to be cleaned and re-waxed. You can hear and feel it. It gets a little noisy in the lowest gears and becomes a little notchy feeling. I used to automatically rotate every 300 miles, but...