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You can contact the app developer. He'll want a ride file to examine. His contact info is in this forum thread somewhere. ST Ride App - Tracker/dash/logger for STEPS motors

Using Shimano's app, both the level of assist (motor output vs human output) and max torque can be adjusted for each of the three modes, and two such setups can be stored (profile 1 and 2). I'm sure you will find settings that suit your needs.

M8150 or EM900. No additional spacers, but the rubber one behind the e-thirteen crank gets deleted.

I would use them. The extra weight of the Rise is insignificant compared to the variation in rider's weights. Extra torque from the motor is small compared to the torque from braking hard. So if they work for you on your other bike they should work on the Rise. I have 7 years on Light Bicycle...

Keep in mind that 85 Nm at 90 rpm is about 800 Watts. None of these motors can sustain that for long. Their controllers will dial them back to avoid overheating. Max power is for short bursts to get up a steep section. Like takeoff power on an airplane.

Could you revise the equations so it doesn't count reductions in burned kcal? When my heart rate is less than 50 such as before I start riding, burned kcal values are decreasing, as if energy is being added to my body.

What data does ST Ride use to calculate "Burned kcal" ?

Gary, if I had to pay you $100 every time I hit a pedal I would never strike a pedal. But I choose to live closer to the edge, and take some risks in the interest of fun riding, like pedaling through a corner to gain speed for a steep climb, or struggling to get over rock or log on an uphill.

I'm guessing Gary never slides out on corners, never lands jumps front wheel first, never catches a handlebar on a tree, never strikes a rock with a pedal, never goes over the bars, .... But does Gary have any fun?

Before I got an e-bike I was not overly concerned about pedal strikes. I have been riding MTBs for 40 years, and I know how to avoid pedal strikes, but mistakes happen. My pedals show the damage, but XT Trail pedals can take a beating. But with an e-bike I'm worried about damaging the motor. I...

The drawings and dimensions on page 38-39 of the technical manual (Blue Paper) might help you figure that out.

I looked into buying one from the US, but ended up getting an M20 in Canada. On tariffs, I assumed they would apply based on manufacture in Spain, not US. I also found that the tariff on incomplete bikes was about half what it is on fully assembled bikes, so I was going to get the wheels shipped...

When Strava imports a ride from ST Ride, it classifies it as Ride, not an E-bike Ride. It states E-bike ride in the description, but not where it shows the type of activity. Is this a problem in the ST Ride app, or with Strava?

Keep up the good work. I really like the ST ride app.

Good choice on the tires. But you still have to ride cautiously on smooth clean ice. Smooth ice hidden by thin snow is the worst. I've only lost studs if there are exposed rocks and I lets the tires skid on them.

Great idea. But is there any chance that powering up the charger while it is connected to the battery is bad for the battery? This would happen if you turned on the smart plug remotely to get it charged for a ride. Orbea instructions for the EP8 RS say to plug in the charger before connecting it...

To help make sense of what is happening, a simple formula relates power, torque and pedal cadence. Power (Watts) = (Torque (Nm) x rpm)/9.554. So your example of 150 rpm at 34 Nm would be 534 Watts.

Do you really need finned pads? How often do you get your brakes so hot the rotors turn blue? Pads without fins for any Shimano 4 pot brake should fit and are much cheaper.

The article in Cycling Tips linked in an earlier post showed poor results for DLC

This test seems legit regarding MTB chains. Shimano XTR looks like it would be worth the money. Finding the best bicycle chain: What over 3,000 hours of testing revealed - CyclingTips