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Get the SICOMP one, perfect fit with loads of clearance, worth the extra £

Hey Croxy, yes I have one on my 150rs, great fit with plenty of clearance, had one of the cheaper mudhugger fronts fitted on the rear before, but this kept clogging with mud on really muddy rides to the point where the wheel wouldn’t rotate and I had to cut it off and shove in camelbak ! Since...

According to Whyte that is why it comes loose, I totally agree with them, it’s stopped mine from coming loose - did it 3 or 4 times without it, not done it once since, all torqued up the same amount each time, but you can think what you like - worked for me, maybe it’s my Whyte branded chainring...

My 2021 e150rs chainring kept coming loose, spoke to Whyte, they told me to fit the o ring, this I did and it’s not come loose since. They told me SRAM told them to remove it, which they did, but it will come loose, they told me this and to fit the o ring

Make sure you push the cable into the battery compartment to as much cable as possible, maybe even loosen the dropper lever and move on bars to allow more to be pushed into Downtube. Loosen seat post clamp and pull out as far as possible, keep pushing cable into downtube.. at bottom of seatpost...

Yep it was the rim tape ! Very poor fitment GIANT, new tape arrived today I’ll do a better job but not what you expect from a new bike ! Front tyre has also deflated overnight ffs !

So just tried to go tubeless on my wife’s Liv - Giant AM25 27.5 tubeless ready rims, fitted valve, squirted in the gunk, went to pump it up but air is coming out of 2 little holes in the rim close to the valve - anyone any ideas ? It has tubeless rim tape already fitted - guess I need to empty...

Not as far as I can tell , LBS charging me £25 to clear it !! I’m hoping they will update to latest SW when they do it too !!

Good effort ! They recommend changing the chain at 0.5% on an ebike ! They say 1.0% is the maximum! But if it’s still working stick with it as all parts will be wearing out and then replace when shifting / slipping gets too much, I’d carry a spare link with me just in case chain snaps so you can...

Ok so after much investigation! Chainring found to be loose (but only just happened as I’d checked it before !), cranks removed, cleaned, motor mounts checked - lower 2 behind plastic cover on non drive side moved about half a turn each, rest were tight. Cranks regreased and refitted, tested and...

I think Whyte must do well selling the touch up paints ! The paint job is very poor but saying that my wife’s Liv is more brittle ! You only have to look at it and it chips !!

If you cover the gap and not put it in the gap it will be fine, alternatively fit one of the small mudhugger mudguards to protect the area

So checked all the linkages are still at 24nm, removed and greased seat, bars removed and cleaned, so making the noise, sometimes it’s a creaking noise, some times just a metallic feel, only when pedalling so driveline related surely? Wd40’d the linkages earlier, Next up remove pedals and fit so...

That’s all tight ! I’ve ordered a lock nut removal tool so I can take chainring off to get to bottom swingarm bolt to check torque of it !

What’s the tool required to remove the chainring ? Anyone know ?

So my E150rs has started to make an occasional knock/tap sound from bottom bracket area, I know there is no BB, Amy ideas ? Only when pedalling, motor on or off, not all the time and more when loaded then spinning freely (so it wouldn’t do it on bike stand), 550 miles in

Time to get a tow bar fitted ! That’s the route I’m going to have to go down !

Actually just noticed the LBS have put the QR in the wrong way ? not going to touch it though, it’s working !!

Non disc side post fix and pre fix (Baden in photo order)

Yes, I took bike to local Giant store, they have added a spacer and readjusted to axle, said they would like to spend more time looking at it when it has its free service, so it’s booked in for end of May but at least there is clearance now ! I’m not familiar with thru axles with cup and cone...