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With fiberglass battery cover fitted. Got the colour match pretty bang on! Now making a fibreglass motor cover:)

Hi sqzer. Yes I used the sketch Rob provided at the start of this thread. I started with a 50mm x 50mm, 2mm thick aluminium angle (bought off ebay). However, I did run in to problems as explained in this thread that led me to trim down the bracket and only attach with a single bolt. The...

Thanks for sharing Chris, amazing job! Hoping to get mine to around that weight but with the 625Wh battery. Nearly finished my fibreglass battery cover, just need to clear coat it. 100g bang on.

Also now experimenting with making a fiberglass battery cover after I discovered the aluminium one weighs a whopping 400g. No real need but enjoy a project:) Going well so far but painting it will be a challenge! 95g in this state:

Hi, sorry failed to come back sooner! All good, had no issues with the bracket. Still super quick to take the battery out. If anything it feels more secure. Couple of bad pics below:

Just done a couple of laps of the red route at Dalby with no problems. Everything looks good, no movement. Will strip it down during the week and check the bracket and rivnut but so far so good. 3D printed a plug for the key hole and a blank to fill the unused screw hole in the frame to limit...

Not the large hole where you would put the key but the non drive-side countersunk hole on the underside of the down tube. On the carbon frames there is an aluminium insert with a machined flat on the inside. Gives a nice surface to bolt the clamp up against. Problem with trying to make them...

Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and...

He is spacing the fork downwards so it won't it hit the downtube.

"Why is everyone looking for a solution to a problem that dosen't exist? " I feel having a lock on the battery was a solution by Trek to a problem that doesn't exist. I can remove a £1200 pair of forks off a bike with a pocket multitool. I can release a £1200 wheel with a QR. Why do I need a...

Ran into a problem. Not sure how the original guy solved it but when you install the battery into the frame you have to insert the bottom end first to hook it onto the plastic latches. Problem is then the new aluminium bracket won't clear the frame when you swing the top end in. In the guide...

If you have the brace fitted then the potential weight saving is just over 400g. Assuming the aluminium bracket will be around 50g.

After getting my first ebike a couple of weeks back this video pretty much sums up how much fun I am having!

One thing I have realised is that with this mod you lose the battery face plate support when you remove the battery handle end cap. Without this the Trek face plate will be loose against the battery at the top end and likely rattle around. You also lose the nice plastic trim around the end of...

Took it to bits today. There were two tokens in so tried with non and 75psi. Still feels like I can't anywhere near full travel, maybe 100mm max. With the fork lowers off I notice that the damper cartridge, when compressed, feels like an air spring. I thought it should just travel through it's...

Managed to change the bearings today. Thought I would post in case anyone else is struggling. the drive side black cap just pulls off by hand. Then the freehub pulls off by hand. Watch out for the pawls flying off! To get the axle out, lay the wheel horizontal, disc rotor side down, support...

So the rear hub on my Line Pro 30 on the Rail has developed a fair bit of bearing play after just 800km. Anyone know how the axle comes out of the hub? Can get the freehub off but the axle won't push through (with a medium amount of force). Can't find a guide online. Have I been unlucky with...

Sure is a looker! Is that an XL?

I admit the front wheel is pretty straight forward but the rear wheel can be a pain. I'm always amazed when I watch the MTB XCO racers professional mechanics struggling to change a rear wheel with the bike the right way up. Flip it upside down and you'd shave 20second off that change!

Same as you, I have always removed and installed wheels on all my bikes with the bike upside down on the ground. I find any other method more fiddly and harder to get the wheel aligned properly. Agree, with a heavy ebike I do worry about damaging bar mounted controls.