????? Sram axs whether original or Transmission are completely independent systems......nothing in the motor determines or affects how gear shifting is achieved...... whether cable or electronic.
SRAM T-type cassette worn out after 940 miles
- Thread starter Pazman
- Start date
The difference being a T type chain rollers are a larger diameter than on an Eagle chain but the pitch is the same.....so only the T type chain checkers will be accurate on a T type chain
sethimus
😠 Temu Gary 😠
and there is no official chain gauge from sram, only one for eagle and below. go figure why
--> you are supposed to run the system to the ground
apart from Park tool CC4.2, or Pedros chain Checker, or SRAM's CHTL8058000
these measure the distance between the backside of 2 rollers rather than between 2 rollers...hence the thickness of the rollers makes no difference to its measurement.
an "old" one will under measure
sethimus
😠 Temu Gary 😠
the first 2 are 3rd party (hint: no official SRAM product), the CHTL8058000 is for all SRAM chains that need to get changed after 0.8% elongation (hint: all chains but t-type)
you are welcome
Shimano only not sram
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
I had a GX t type chain break into 3 pieces after 150 miles and a GX cassette creak like my old knees in the morning after 225, probably due to loose or loosening pins. Upgrading both to XO and hoping for a better result. The torque emtbs create is so much higher, these are the few parts that actually deserve emtb specific ones.
I am now riding Transmission XX 3000 kilometers and everything looks like new. Even the chain is still within tolerance, despite a lot of mud and rough terrain. At the time, it was an experiment for me to take the most expensive components for a change. But when I look at it now, it actually seems to be worth it.
FlightDeck
Member
You're on the money here. I do similar with all my bikes but have three chains that get hot waxed and rotated. Road bikes rotate every 350 km and eMTB gets rotated every 120-160 km dependant on conditions. All chains get wiped down with microfibres cloth after riding in the dry (Main conditions I ride in where I live) and after riding in the wet all chains get rinsed clean with water and dried.
Did you comprehend the whole Shimano aspect of my statement?
But as far as Ttype goes you are dead wrong. The motor is connected to the shifting and it is not independent. Probably came out after you made your post.
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The problem here is the new Ebike power output is overkill for Ttype chains and cassettes.
I wear out cassettes long before the chain ever gets worn. The last 10 chains ive gone through, and not one of them was out of spec.
If you are an eco warrior or ride slow, yes you can get stupid miles out of a cassette to the point you may war out a chain.
If you ride aggressively with a strong Ebike you will wear out the cassette first. That means cleaning the chain perfectly, and hot waxing every two rides. Right now cassettes are only lasting between 200-600 miles. One or two got to 900 miles. Only one cassette stopped hopping chains with a new replacement chain.
I f
Sram Transmission is different and I am yet to experience personally, or get much feedback on it. The cassette profile is different and T Type chains retain standard pitch but have larger diameter rollers. The difference the T Type design makes is that gear change can be made under load....in fact gear change is actually better under load most of the time. SRAM says TType chains and cassettes wear together so it recommends running both until slippage starts to occur, and then change both. Due to the larger roller diameter you also need a compatible chain wear checker.
There has of course been a big increase in motor power recently so it will be interesting to see the impact of that on drivetrains.
My only personal experience with AXS Transmission is 450 miles on a bosch cx gen 4 with zero measureable chain wear....thats with XS 1275 cassette and GX chain. I have XS 1270 on a Bosch gen5 bike but not enough miles on that to make any judgements. The 1270 does however have a replaceable small cogs section rather than being fully pinned.
I find all of that contrary to the experience of what riders have posted here....including my own. Leaving T Type to one side, most riders say they expect c 500 to 700 miles for a chain up to 0 5% stretch......then 2 or sometimes 3 chains before a cassette nerds changing. Of course there are variables which include differing trail conditions, drivetrain maintenance methods, the spec of the cassette and chains used, and how any rider uses the drivetrain.
Sram Transmission is different and I am yet to experience personally, or get much feedback on it. The cassette profile is different and T Type chains retain standard pitch but have larger diameter rollers. The difference the T Type design makes is that gear change can be made under load....in fact gear change is actually better under load most of the time. SRAM says TType chains and cassettes wear together so it recommends running both until slippage starts to occur, and then change both. Due to the larger roller diameter you also need a compatible chain wear checker.
There has of course been a big increase in motor power recently so it will be interesting to see the impact of that on drivetrains.
My only personal experience with AXS Transmission is 450 miles on a bosch cx gen 4 with zero measureable chain wear....thats with XS 1275 cassette and GX chain. I have XS 1270 on a Bosch gen5 bike but not enough miles on that to make any judgements. The 1270 does however have a replaceable small cogs section rather than being fully pinned.
It is my belief that reducing wear and tear on the drivetrain is reduced if you ride with "mechanical sympathy". That means using the gears to keep cadence above 65 with light pressure on the cranks. The assistance provided by the motor is likely to be a great deal more progressive than rider input to the cranks, so using a suitably tuned mode that keeps pedal pressure fairly low is best in my opinion. For those that insist on riding in ECO I believe that is just putting undue strain on the drivetrain..........we are ( mostly) after all riding comparatively heavy full suspension bikes! Obviously cleaning and lubing the drivetrain is also important. A lot of emphasis is placed on different lubes, but actually very little lube is required and I dont think there is much difference between them. Far more important is keeping the drivetrain clean. the majority of wear due to friction occurs between the rollers and pins so using a cleaning method that gets rid of dust /dirt etc in those areas is key.
A chain also loses lateral stiffness over time partly due to the roller/pin wear but also due to "aggressive" gear changes. That loss of lateral stiffness impacts on the mech guide wheel ( upper jockey) required distance from the cassette cogs. Pre T Type mechs may need B tension screw adjustment when that happens. T Type has no B tension adjustment or end stop screws..........but if it is AXS micro adjustments can be made in the AXS app or by using the changer pod with the side button held in whiclst the chain is on the 2nd largest cog.
In support of your reference to lateral stiffness, I point you to the following thread. (You may remember it anyway).
https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/rumbling-noise-chain-ring-or-motor-bearings.44441/#post-646856
In summary I had a rumbling noise on the bike. Turned out to be the chain, which was measured over 100 links at 0.3% stretch, but that was over 1500 miles and to be fair that chain did look a bit past its best! So I measured side flex vs a new chain. the pic below was in the above thread.
sethimus
😠 Temu Gary 😠
there’s a tool for that:
www.abbeybiketools.com
LL Chain Wear Tool
Chain wear has become a little more complicated ever since 1x drivetrains have gained popularity. These drivetrains are designed to cross chain, something most of us were taught to avoid when we started riding bikes as a serious endeavor. Add to that the variables that flat top chains have...
www.abbeybiketools.com
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