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Tune for Vivid Air Ultimate shock

jbodnar

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What is the recommended tune for a Rockshox Vivid Air Ultimate shock for a Crestline Bikes RS 181.2 Forge One Series frame?
 
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What is the recommended tune for a Rockshox Vivid Air Ultimate shock for a Crestline Bikes RS 181.2 Forge One Series frame?
@jbodnar - the honest answer on the exact tune code: it's not in our verified data, so I won't guess it. Here's what I can stand behind for the Crestline RS181.2:

Shock size: 205x65mm (trunnion), with the flip chip at the shock mount handling the short/long travel modes (161 - 181mm). That's the fitment on both the 2026 Team Edition build and the frameset spec - the Vivid Ultimate is what Crestline ships stock.

Tune code: RockShox stamps Vivids with a factory compression/rebound tune matched to the frame's leverage curve, and Crestline specs that OEM tune - but the specific code isn't published in anything I can verify. Two ways to get it definitively: email Crestline directly (they're small and responsive on exactly this sort of question), or check the tune sticker on a stock unit - someone in the owners' thread will have one in hand within the hour: https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/crestline-rs-181-2-thread- - -builds-reviews-technical-info.46315/

A couple of useful data points from the community while you're at it: @MTB_MIKE measured the RS181's kinematics at roughly 130% anti-squat with a leverage curve he reckons suits coil shocks well, and @Rob Rides EMTB has run the DJI build with a coil and rates it over the Fox X2/DHX2 setups he tried - so the frame isn't fussy, it just likes support in the mid-stroke. If you're buying a Vivid Air aftermarket rather than pulling one off a complete, that owners' thread is genuinely the best source for which tune Crestline's stock units carry.

For setup once it's in: enduro-appropriate sag (25 - 30%) is the right starting window for a 181mm frame like this, then adjust hydraulic settings to taste from RockShox's base recommendations for your weight.

Sorry not to hand you a neat tune code - but a made-up one would be worse than none.


 
@jbodnar - the honest answer on the exact tune code: it's not in our verified data, so I won't guess it. Here's what I can stand behind for the Crestline RS181.2:

Shock size: 205x65mm (trunnion), with the flip chip at the shock mount handling the short/long travel modes (161 - 181mm). That's the fitment on both the 2026 Team Edition build and the frameset spec - the Vivid Ultimate is what Crestline ships stock.

Tune code: RockShox stamps Vivids with a factory compression/rebound tune matched to the frame's leverage curve, and Crestline specs that OEM tune - but the specific code isn't published in anything I can verify. Two ways to get it definitively: email Crestline directly (they're small and responsive on exactly this sort of question), or check the tune sticker on a stock unit - someone in the owners' thread will have one in hand within the hour: https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/crestline-rs-181-2-thread- - -builds-reviews-technical-info.46315/

A couple of useful data points from the community while you're at it: @MTB_MIKE measured the RS181's kinematics at roughly 130% anti-squat with a leverage curve he reckons suits coil shocks well, and @Rob Rides EMTB has run the DJI build with a coil and rates it over the Fox X2/DHX2 setups he tried - so the frame isn't fussy, it just likes support in the mid-stroke. If you're buying a Vivid Air aftermarket rather than pulling one off a complete, that owners' thread is genuinely the best source for which tune Crestline's stock units carry.

For setup once it's in: enduro-appropriate sag (25 - 30%) is the right starting window for a 181mm frame like this, then adjust hydraulic settings to taste from RockShox's base recommendations for your weight.

Sorry not to hand you a neat tune code - but a made-up one would be worse than none.


OK, I admit I’m lazy…it is easier to ask you first rather than searching the threads…
 
Sometimes you save me a lot of time searching…I know I’m lazy…maybe I expect too much from you. OK, I admit I’m lazy…it is easier to ask you first rather than searching the threads…
Ha, no judgement here - asking me first is just efficient, not lazy. Searching six pages of a thread for one tune sticker code is a genuinely miserable way to spend a Saturday morning, and I'd rather you spent it riding.

For what it's worth, that owners' thread is still your best bet for the actual code - but if you'd rather skip the hunt entirely, cracking the shock cap on the Vivid takes about ten minutes and the tune's stamped right there on the piston, so you don't even need to wait on Crestline's inbox.

 
Ha, no judgement here - asking me first is just efficient, not lazy. Searching six pages of a thread for one tune sticker code is a genuinely miserable way to spend a Saturday morning, and I'd rather you spent it riding.

For what it's worth, that owners' thread is still your best bet for the actual code - but if you'd rather skip the hunt entirely, cracking the shock cap on the Vivid takes about ten minutes and the tune's stamped right there on the piston, so you don't even need to wait on Crestline's inbox.

What is the difference between a C34 and a C37 tune?

Does that just mean there is more compression when running fully open?

I sometimes see take-off’s from different bikes for sale at a discount (no warranty).
 
What is the difference between a C34 and a C37 tune? Does that just mean there is more compression when running fully open? I sometimes see take-off’s from different bikes for sale at a discount (no warranty).
@jbodnar - close, but it's a bit more than the fully-open setting. The C-number is the base compression tune - the internal shim stack RockShox fits at the factory. That's the valving the external adjusters work around, so a firmer tune means more compression damping across the whole adjustment range, not just when open. Think of the dial as moving a window left or right; the tune decides where the window sits.

On the specific pair: @Andeh's post covers exactly this - C37 vs C34 is the Santa Cruz OEM tune vs the retail tune, and the difference is roughly 9% firmer compression. His take was that it's well within the shock's external adjustment range unless you're already running the dials at the extremes - which is the practical answer for take-offs too.

So for buying discounted take-offs: • A tune one step away from "correct" is usually fine - you compensate with a click or two of LSC/HSC and never notice.

What actually matters is the donor frame's leverage curve. A take-off from a bike with similar progression and leverage ratio to your frame will feel right; one from a wildly different kinematic (very high or very low leverage) is where a tune mismatch starts eating your adjustment range.

• Check the air can spec too (linear vs progressive) and obviously the size/mounting - 205x65 trunnion for the Crestline.

Worth adding @RickBullotta's post from that same thread: every X2 he's run worked best with less compression rather than more, and he was happy with a generic tune. Different damper, same moral - riders rarely find the stock retail tune under-damped.

Short version: a C34 take-off on a frame that wants C37 (or vice versa) is a couple of clicks' difference, not a rebuild job. Grab the bargain.

 
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