Dengfu E82 | 3x3 nine IGH
- Thread starter kaaskopf
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #62
Small update
I got an amazing offer for an 3x3 hub with belt and electric shift. As a bike nerd i always wanted to try it.
It will make the bike even more heavy but doing a full suspension belt drive seems like a nice challenge and has a cool factor for me.
Currently i have the linkglide madrone setup that works also very good,
so i will move the madrone to my other bike (e10) and will try todo a belt drive conversion on this e82, mainly for the low maintance aspect of the whole setup.
parts ordered;
3x3 hub 12x148 32h
3x3 E.TR.CMD electric MTB trp shifter
3x3 electric actuator
3x3 BRK.203.TRP 2.3 203 disc
3x3 BS.28 Gates cdx sprocket
3x3 CS.24 chain sprocket as backup if belt project is not possible
3x3 brake adapter 180-203
3x3 AP.TA PM1 torque plate
Found cheap aliexpress Gates CDX parts
a.aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
i roughly calculated my belt length at 117t with the gates calculator and 39-28t sprockets(smallest that 3x3 offers, and smallest gates offers in 104bcd) i added 3 tooth for belt-growth and tensioner.
My plan is so fab a iscg05 tensioner or go for a hanger mounted tensioner option. I got a pinion bt1 tensioner so i only need an adapter plate
this was quickly throw together for illustration purposes only. it needs to be bigger for 39t cdx sprocket
my plan to power the electric shift actuater is to take a 1t3(lights display battery) bafang canbus cable and tap into the 12v front light cirquit
some might say that is a risk..
but i found out that this 3x3 is closely copied the rohloff design in some places. the electric shift actuater seems similar, and with rohloff it only uses 0.6w at 12v
the bafang front light output is 12v 0.5amp so that is about 6 watts, 10x as much as needed. should be good and no need for extra adapters/wiring
but lights need to be activated on display.
the shifter handle bar controller works on a small watch battery so no wires needed there, its also has ev-spec mounting
I got an amazing offer for an 3x3 hub with belt and electric shift. As a bike nerd i always wanted to try it.
It will make the bike even more heavy but doing a full suspension belt drive seems like a nice challenge and has a cool factor for me.
Currently i have the linkglide madrone setup that works also very good,
so i will move the madrone to my other bike (e10) and will try todo a belt drive conversion on this e82, mainly for the low maintance aspect of the whole setup.
parts ordered;
3x3 hub 12x148 32h
3x3 E.TR.CMD electric MTB trp shifter
3x3 electric actuator
3x3 BRK.203.TRP 2.3 203 disc
3x3 BS.28 Gates cdx sprocket
3x3 CS.24 chain sprocket as backup if belt project is not possible
3x3 brake adapter 180-203
3x3 AP.TA PM1 torque plate
Found cheap aliexpress Gates CDX parts
Gates Carbon Drive CDX Kurbelgarnitur 46T schwarz
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
Gates Carbon Antriebsriemen CDX Center Track Bike Belt Drive Carbon Fiber Fahrrad - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
i roughly calculated my belt length at 117t with the gates calculator and 39-28t sprockets(smallest that 3x3 offers, and smallest gates offers in 104bcd) i added 3 tooth for belt-growth and tensioner.
My plan is so fab a iscg05 tensioner or go for a hanger mounted tensioner option. I got a pinion bt1 tensioner so i only need an adapter plate
this was quickly throw together for illustration purposes only. it needs to be bigger for 39t cdx sprocket
my plan to power the electric shift actuater is to take a 1t3(lights display battery) bafang canbus cable and tap into the 12v front light cirquit
some might say that is a risk..
but i found out that this 3x3 is closely copied the rohloff design in some places. the electric shift actuater seems similar, and with rohloff it only uses 0.6w at 12v
the bafang front light output is 12v 0.5amp so that is about 6 watts, 10x as much as needed. should be good and no need for extra adapters/wiring
but lights need to be activated on display.
the shifter handle bar controller works on a small watch battery so no wires needed there, its also has ev-spec mounting
Last edited:
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
1.7mm is so small it likely will have no problem. The rear triangle probably flexes laterally more than that
curufinwe_wins
Member
For 2mm spacing, I'd recommend doing that at the chainring bolts instead. Lots of spacer options
- Thread starter
- #67
on m510 the chainring fits inside the spider and thus spacing it the wrong way with chainring bolts
curufinwe_wins
Member
Oh duh, you're right of course. Just looked back at mine. Unfortunate, but there should be about that much extra thread for the lockring so you should be fine there too.
- Thread starter
- #69
oke so i measured the growing chainstay length in size Large and 230x65 shock and 190 rear travel, ifs about 33mm
i tried to make a tensioner myself but any bb mounted option will run into the chainstays, now i know why all the pinion belt drive bikes run a higher chainstay..
also i Tried to contact PRI innovations for their derailleur mounted belt tensioner
(photo from interwebs. belt on a dengfu e22) (link to the build thread ; Belt Installation on the Wattwagons Hydra )
and it could work with the 28t cog of the 3x3 nine hub, but according to their calculations i run into a issue with growing belt length and the gates belt coming in 3 tooth increments which make it to short and too long compressed/uncompressed
might work with 170 rear travel but im not changing the rear shock, i like the amount of travel
or going with different ratios with reduces climbing. both not realy an option for me..
was worth a try
now the chain route
finding a good tensioner that will work with 24t (smallest cog in chain) is another challenge..
i will use a 32t narrow wide front chainring, so my input ratio is going the be 1.33
they sure didnt make it easy with 3x3 Nine's limited cog selection
i have a rohloff DH shorty tensioner and i ordered a UDH direct mount hanger. because its longer. the tensioner normally has a 17t max but maybe this hanger might boost it some to 24t ? worth a try
i tried to make a tensioner myself but any bb mounted option will run into the chainstays, now i know why all the pinion belt drive bikes run a higher chainstay..
also i Tried to contact PRI innovations for their derailleur mounted belt tensioner
(photo from interwebs. belt on a dengfu e22) (link to the build thread ; Belt Installation on the Wattwagons Hydra )
and it could work with the 28t cog of the 3x3 nine hub, but according to their calculations i run into a issue with growing belt length and the gates belt coming in 3 tooth increments which make it to short and too long compressed/uncompressed
might work with 170 rear travel but im not changing the rear shock, i like the amount of travel
or going with different ratios with reduces climbing. both not realy an option for me..
was worth a try
now the chain route
finding a good tensioner that will work with 24t (smallest cog in chain) is another challenge..
i will use a 32t narrow wide front chainring, so my input ratio is going the be 1.33
they sure didnt make it easy with 3x3 Nine's limited cog selection
i have a rohloff DH shorty tensioner and i ordered a UDH direct mount hanger. because its longer. the tensioner normally has a 17t max but maybe this hanger might boost it some to 24t ? worth a try
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #70
still alot going on
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
bram.biesiekierski
Active member
THat sounds like alot of hassles.
Why dont you build your own rear hub/wheel? Its actually not difficult at all. It is a little time consuming for a first go, and perhaps a little daunting. But really its not hard. I build all my own wheels including a couple for the old Kindernay hubs. And now a few wheels for the CYC HD hubs etc. Its actually a kind of enjoyable process i think.
Why dont you build your own rear hub/wheel? Its actually not difficult at all. It is a little time consuming for a first go, and perhaps a little daunting. But really its not hard. I build all my own wheels including a couple for the old Kindernay hubs. And now a few wheels for the CYC HD hubs etc. Its actually a kind of enjoyable process i think.
still alot going on
3x3 rear hub arrived, its so good looking, made in germany. the electronic shifters feels so damn good and have a small mechanical click to them
the rear belt cog aint going to work, cause the rear belt grows 33mm during suspension travel and belts only come in increments of 3. so i was advised to go different ratios/belt lengths which means more delays.
might try chaindrive in the meantime
also i am in the process of having the front triangle of the frame replaced under warranty because of massive creaking sounds under load.
they are very difficult to deal with but in the end i got a shipping label for a retour and hopefully a new front triangle.
this means i have to rebuild the whole bike at a later stage, but i can add cerakote like i originally wanted
have to send the 3x3 to a wheelbuilder and wait some more
- Thread starter
- #72
it is a time thing, i choose to let someone i know build the wheel, he has all the tools and knowledge, i dont.
electronic trigger shifter mounted on ev spec adapter. this shifter is actually a TRP branded part. Very nice mechanical clicking going on.
the electronic shift actuater unit
TRP 203 disc made for 3x3 bike so it matches with the front
torque arm / post mount adapter 180-203
the hub itself, shifting side, here the actuator mounts
its massive but not very heavy..
first up i have to make up a cable for the actuator. The shifter has its own small watch battery so no wires on handlebar.
For the actuator i plan to make a 1t3 can bus cable with motor- hmi/battery/lights
the lights output has 10x the power i need and the right voltage so i will try to take that and put a higo 4 pin male on it for first tests. (backup plan would involve a power converter from battery voltage direct but this will take space and more wiring)
in the meantime i will get the hub laced up and the frame repainted.
electronic trigger shifter mounted on ev spec adapter. this shifter is actually a TRP branded part. Very nice mechanical clicking going on.
the electronic shift actuater unit
TRP 203 disc made for 3x3 bike so it matches with the front
torque arm / post mount adapter 180-203
the hub itself, shifting side, here the actuator mounts
its massive but not very heavy..
first up i have to make up a cable for the actuator. The shifter has its own small watch battery so no wires on handlebar.
For the actuator i plan to make a 1t3 can bus cable with motor- hmi/battery/lights
the lights output has 10x the power i need and the right voltage so i will try to take that and put a higo 4 pin male on it for first tests. (backup plan would involve a power converter from battery voltage direct but this will take space and more wiring)
in the meantime i will get the hub laced up and the frame repainted.
Last edited:
I want to build in a 3x3 nine to my Dengfu E10.
But my dealer said the actuator has to be connected to the motor and the motor has to support the 3x3 hub. Otherwise it would not work.
At shifting there is a signal that the motor drops the support.
So he will not sell that parts.
But you just connect the shifter to power (12 or 6 Volt) and it should work?
Where do you order the shifter and trigger?
How this two parts are called?
But my dealer said the actuator has to be connected to the motor and the motor has to support the 3x3 hub. Otherwise it would not work.
At shifting there is a signal that the motor drops the support.
So he will not sell that parts.
But you just connect the shifter to power (12 or 6 Volt) and it should work?
Where do you order the shifter and trigger?
How this two parts are called?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #74
yes, i have a source which told me i can connect just power and it should work, but motor doesnt cut so you have to be gentle on the pedals same as with a derailleur
this was the order list
i contacted ebikerepair and they arranged everything. i choose all the parts based of 3x3s parts list
might change a cog later
www.ebikerepair.eu
this was the order list
i contacted ebikerepair and they arranged everything. i choose all the parts based of 3x3s parts list
might change a cog later
3x3 Nabenschaltung Set – Perfekte Nachrüstung für dein Black Forest Bike [3561]
3x3 Nabenschaltung für dein Black Forest Bike nachrüsten lassen ✓ 9 Gänge ✓ wartungsarm ✓ perfekt für Alltag & Touren ✓ jetzt Upgrade sichern!
www.ebikerepair.eu
Last edited:
Yep, I will.
My next idea is to convert the can signsl with a electronic to a analog signal. So I can use the brake connector to stop the motor.
But I know 230V and 400V and no chips or can protocol.
If it works without droping motor support, I know that I will be too lacy to make this.
If I do, I will show and do a Dokumentation
My next idea is to convert the can signsl with a electronic to a analog signal. So I can use the brake connector to stop the motor.
But I know 230V and 400V and no chips or can protocol.
If it works without droping motor support, I know that I will be too lacy to make this.
If I do, I will show and do a Dokumentation
- Thread starter
- #79
for sure its doable. bosch engines already have it.
i will not make anything like that because i dont think its needed as with my eco tuned m510 its very easy to release the pedals, as im currently doing with cassette shifts.
you could also reverse energineer the bafang shift module and hook that up to the can H/L cabling if you wanted too
i will not make anything like that because i dont think its needed as with my eco tuned m510 its very easy to release the pedals, as im currently doing with cassette shifts.
you could also reverse energineer the bafang shift module and hook that up to the can H/L cabling if you wanted too
- Thread starter
- #83
i hope long enough 
i didnt build the wheel myself, got better things in life todo
spoke tension looks very high, it sounds like a decent harp
i think this rim has allowance for high spoke tension and so does the hub
lets see if it lasts, i dont have much good experiences with 29" rears
i didnt build the wheel myself, got better things in life todo
spoke tension looks very high, it sounds like a decent harp
i think this rim has allowance for high spoke tension and so does the hub
lets see if it lasts, i dont have much good experiences with 29" rears
slickrock
Well-known member
Bravo on your your project here! Not to mention the scope of it - you are taking the whole thing on, including trying to make e-shifting work outside of Bosch. Dealing with chain growth, tensioner choice and placement and mounting challenges, belt size selection, monkey bone integration, wheel building is a tall order. Ad to that trying to make e-shifting work on a Bafang.
I'm not aware of hardly anyone converting their EMTB to belt with a 3X3 NINE - lots of recumbent bikes making the conversion though. In 2024, I had embarked on converting my Pole Sonni to belt drive and chronicled the process on this thread. I had settled on the 3X3 over Rohloff for a number of reasons, but the main one was through-axle compatibility as the E12 required too many steps to get fitting compliance (have to use shaft adapters because there is no thru-shaft) so the hub can be warranted. And the 3x3 can fully handle ebike motor torque. The first thing that held the project up was I had 220mm rear rotor and adding the monkey bone would push it to 240mm, which was a nonstarter. Pole when bankrupt and it took many months to get an reduced brake boss adapter to bring the rotor size down to 200mm. Second, I waiting for that TRP e-shifter you got to be released. The prior 3x3 shifter was totally lame, but TRP kept stalling into 2026 for it be released. My 3rd hurdle happened when my second EMTB was stolen when my son borrowed it at the university, and had to drive funds into getting a replacement bike, so put the project on hold. And the tariff situation at the time did not help my Yankee behind one bit.
But still, I think I had easier go of it compared to you. My Sonni has a Bosch motor, so e-shift integration is directly supported. Second, the Sonni rear suspension more lent itself to belt conversion: The Sonni has an elevated chainstay and chain growth was very minimal at something like 8mm. With 39T chainring, the belt size I honed in on what be a perfect fit with the transverse mounted UT belt tensioner I got from Nicolai. Getting the mid-drive tensioner setup was a big challenge but I fashioned my own flanges to make the adaptation work. But never did buy the 3x3 setup and take to the next step, so I'm glad you are taking this on. Great of you to keep us up to date on your efforts.
- Thread starter
- #87
i love that belt tensioner for sure !
i went and put PRI to the test by making a custom tensioner for me,
PRI already makes them but it doesnt fit the large rear cog that 3x3 has
i ride on the beach a lot and chain maintance is not fun
i have other bikes as well, a normal analog surly krampus and a dengfu e14/e10 so thats why i could deep dive into this project like i'm.
the PRI tensioner ETA is september and i still want to do some cerakote finish in the meantime
might build the bike up in the winter time when i got all the parts again
i went and put PRI to the test by making a custom tensioner for me,
PRI already makes them but it doesnt fit the large rear cog that 3x3 has
i ride on the beach a lot and chain maintance is not fun
i have other bikes as well, a normal analog surly krampus and a dengfu e14/e10 so thats why i could deep dive into this project like i'm.
the PRI tensioner ETA is september and i still want to do some cerakote finish in the meantime
might build the bike up in the winter time when i got all the parts again
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