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Shimano MT8120 rear brake not biting at lever pull — tried full flush and new calliper?

Dougster

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I ride a Modraker shimano mt8120 brakes.

Hi can any one help me.ive bleede my brakes and my rear is just not going perfect.ive tried re bleeding and still the same. Done a full flush new calliper and it's just not biting at the start point when you pull the leaver. Looked at lots of different ways and still same cheers Dougie.

@Greg Watts
 
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That bite-point-too-far-out feeling on a Shimano rear, even after a full flush, is almost always trapped air sitting in the caliper — and the rear is the worst offender because it's mounted horizontally with the bleed nipple pointing slightly down, so bubbles love to hide in there.

A few things worth working through in order:

1. Pistons fully retracted before you bleed
The whole Shimano system is calibrated assuming the pistons are pushed all the way back. As @Mikerb → points out, if the pistons have crept out (or weren't cleaned and pushed fully home on the new caliper), the fluid volume is wrong and you'll get a long throw before bite. Clean the pistons first, then push them right back, then bleed.

2. The bumpy-ride trick
This is the classic fix when a Shimano rear stays spongy after a textbook bleed. @Stihldog → swears by it: go ride something rough to shake the trapped bubbles loose, then do a second lever bleed (funnel on the lever, tap the line and caliper, let air rise out the top). Two-stage like that clears what a single bleed won't.

3. Gravity bleed if it's stubborn
Still soft? @Stihldog also flags that moisture or air collected in the caliper sometimes needs a gravity bleed — open the caliper nipple, let fluid drip through under gravity with the funnel on top, no pumping. Slow, but it walks the trapped air straight up and out.

4. Check you actually got the right MT8120 result
Worth being honest that the XT 4-pots have form here. Several riders on here — @ntm95 among them — find the 8120s suffer a wandering/lazy bite point that survives even expert bleeding. So if you've genuinely done a clean retraction, two lever bleeds and a gravity bleed and it's still mushy, you may be chasing a known caliper trait rather than a bleed error. A fresh set of pads and making sure the rotor's true (no slight warp pumping the pistons back) rules out the easy culprits.

One more: make sure you used genuine Shimano mineral oil, not a substitute — wrong fluid can give exactly this vague-lever symptom.

If none of that lands it, tell me what your lever feel is doing exactly — firms up after a few pumps, or stays soft no matter what? That distinction tells us air vs. seal/piston pretty quickly. Cheers Dougie.
 
That bite-point-too-far-out feeling on a Shimano rear, even after a full flush, is almost always trapped air sitting in the caliper — and the rear is the worst offender because it's mounted horizontally with the bleed nipple pointing slightly down, so bubbles love to hide in there.

A few things worth working through in order:

1. Pistons fully retracted before you bleed
The whole Shimano system is calibrated assuming the pistons are pushed all the way back. As @Mikerb → points out, if the pistons have crept out (or weren't cleaned and pushed fully home on the new caliper), the fluid volume is wrong and you'll get a long throw before bite. Clean the pistons first, then push them right back, then bleed.

2. The bumpy-ride trick
This is the classic fix when a Shimano rear stays spongy after a textbook bleed. @Stihldog → swears by it: go ride something rough to shake the trapped bubbles loose, then do a second lever bleed (funnel on the lever, tap the line and caliper, let air rise out the top). Two-stage like that clears what a single bleed won't.

3. Gravity bleed if it's stubborn
Still soft? @Stihldog also flags that moisture or air collected in the caliper sometimes needs a gravity bleed — open the caliper nipple, let fluid drip through under gravity with the funnel on top, no pumping. Slow, but it walks the trapped air straight up and out.

4. Check you actually got the right MT8120 result
Worth being honest that the XT 4-pots have form here. Several riders on here — @ntm95 among them — find the 8120s suffer a wandering/lazy bite point that survives even expert bleeding. So if you've genuinely done a clean retraction, two lever bleeds and a gravity bleed and it's still mushy, you may be chasing a known caliper trait rather than a bleed error. A fresh set of pads and making sure the rotor's true (no slight warp pumping the pistons back) rules out the easy culprits.

One more: make sure you used genuine Shimano mineral oil, not a substitute — wrong fluid can give exactly this vague-lever symptom.

If none of that lands it, tell me what your lever feel is doing exactly — firms up after a few pumps, or stays soft no matter what? That distinction tells us air vs. seal/piston pretty quickly. Cheers Dougie.
Thanks for the reply I've changed callipers and now pads, so that illuminates them.ill try re bleed. My bike is a mondraker crafty race. Which im sure is the mt8120, cheers Dougie
 
Thanks for the reply I've changed callipers and now pads, so that illuminates them.ill try re bleed. My bike is a mondraker crafty race. Which im sure is the mt8120, cheers Dougie
Good news on ruling out the caliper and pads - that's actually useful progress, @Dougster, because it tells you the problem is in the system rather than a faulty component.

One thing worth flagging: based on what I've got in front of me, the Mondraker Crafty Race runs a Bosch CX-R rather than Shimano brakes from the factory - so I can't confirm it ships with MT8120s as standard. That said, plenty of riders swap brakes, so if yours has them fitted that's fine - just worth knowing in case any of the routing or bleed port positioning differs from what you'd expect on a Shimano-native build.

For the re-bleed, the one thing I'd add to what I said before: now that you've got a fresh caliper and fresh pads in there, do push the pistons fully home before you start. New caliper pistons can sit slightly proud out of the box, and if you bleed with them in that position you'll bake in the wrong fluid volume from the off. Clean them, retract fully, then bleed.

After the bleed, give the bike a proper shake down a rough bit of trail before you judge it - Shimano rears can hold a bubble that only shifts once the system's been vibrated a bit, then a second lever bleed clears it. @Stihldog's post on brake setup is worth a read for the finer details of getting everything properly settled.

Let us know how it goes - if it's still vague after that, we can dig further.

 
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