Can I run a non e-bike specific hub

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hvrider

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Hi,

i want to run a Deemax DH rear wheel on my bike (to match my front wheel). As shown.

I know Mavic make the e-Deemax, but I’m vibing the yellow. I could get a rim laced up to an e specific hub, but would rather not.

How absolutely necessary is it to run the e-bike specific version??

I am concerned the torque (120nm Bosch gen 5) could cause my hub to implode - I do not want to get stranded miles from home.

Any thought on this team?

Old man Greg said it was all good - but I am weary.

Thanks in advance

IMG_4840.webp
 
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The hub is one place where you want to choose something that's durable and reliable under constant high power. Wimpy, no-name 3 pawl hubs are not something I'd put on an eMTB. But I'd think the Mavic Deemax hubs (newer ones with ID360) are probably fairly stout. It also depends on what type of cassette you're running. I've destroyed HG alloy freehub bodies on eMTBs, so that can be another source of issues.
 
I don't see why not. A hub is just pawls, a ratchet & two or three bearings. FWIW I've run a non eeb Spesh back wheel on my Focus for two years & it's been fine. The other option is buy the decals & go matchy matchy for cheap.
 
E-Bikes can exert a significantly higher torque on the hub, BUT that will only affect you when you are a strong and heavy rider yourself and you often use full power with low cadence.
 
RustyMTB said:
I don't see why not. A hub is just pawls, a ratchet & two or three bearings. FWIW I've run a non eeb Spesh back wheel on my Focus for two years & it's been fine. The other option is buy the decals & go matchy matchy for cheap.
Click to expand...

The new Mavic and most DT Swiss hubs don't even use pawls anymore
 
Thanks for all the replies!

Based on the feedback and old man Greg, sounds like a fairly safe bet. Infact, rereading the Mavic website listing for e Deemax - it mentions the e bike specific hub uses a single spoke length l/r - but just says it using the ID 360 ratchet system. Nothing about it being beefier or somehow different.

I will click buy on a rear wheel. Thanks everyone
 
Noclutch said:
My DT Swiss 350 with 90t DEG didn't play well with my Bosch, but the 60t DEG DF does. FWIW.
Click to expand...
I spoke with DT Swiss when I was building/spec'ing my wheelset and they recommended not to go with the quicker engagement rings on higher powered eMTBs. I played it safe with the 36T on my older hubs.
 
Did my research and there are two things to look for. Use a steel freehub body and the lowest count ratchet rings.
Will use my yellow deemax too (when the bike will come finally)
 
RickBullotta said:
I spoke with DT Swiss when I was building/spec'ing my wheelset and they recommended not to go with the quicker engagement rings on higher powered eMTBs. I played it safe with the 36T on my older hubs.
Click to expand...
Some more info, specifically about the hybrid.
worldwidecyclery.com

DT Swiss DEG DF Upgrade Kit - An Integrated Anti-Kickback Device

Unlock smoother suspension with the DT Swiss DEG DF Upgrade Kit. Adjustable 0°, 10°, 20° settings reduce pedal kickback for XC, Enduro & DH.
worldwidecyclery.com worldwidecyclery.com
But yea I agree, much of it is marketing BS and CYA. As such, I'm running Reserve SL wheelset, not e-rated* :rolleyes: , on my Vala and they're doing just fine now that the 90t ratchet is gone. I tend to ride lighter than I am, because I'm as old as I am. :ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:
hvrider said:
Hi,

i want to run a Deemax DH rear wheel on my bike (to match my front wheel). As shown.

I know Mavic make the e-Deemax, but I’m vibing the yellow. I could get a rim laced up to an e specific hub, but would rather not.

How absolutely necessary is it to run the e-bike specific version??

I am concerned the torque (120nm Bosch gen 5) could cause my hub to implode - I do not want to get stranded miles from home.

Any thought on this team?

Old man Greg said it was all good - but I am weary.

Thanks in advance

View attachment 187946
Click to expand...
I use a Hope Pro 5 on Bosch 120nm bike, as I've done with previous E-bikes / enduro bikes. It's just a good idea to run a decent hub to be honest, and as other posters say on here if you're riding in high gears all the time, it'll wear the bearings faster etc etc.
 
MartinShires said:
It's just a good idea to run a decent hub to be honest
Click to expand...

Steel freehub body since forever on MTB's. I understand the weight weenie alu freehub bodies for serious XC racers and roadies but the gouging they get even on normal MTB's has always been an issue.

Extra torque on an emtb, a steel freehub is a no brainer.

Decent hubs too as you say. I see people buy these AliExpress hubs and say they are great... until they fail and people are stuck on the trail, then no parts are available or the hub body is mangled, then its a complete wheel rebuild for more cost than getting a quality hub to begin with.

I was a Hope fanboi for 15yrs+, then they got a bit more expensive and became less interchangeable, these days (8yrs now) I'm all DT Swiss. I have a few other sets of blingy hubs like Chris King and Tune but the price of a spare freehub with some of these is the same as a whole DT Swiss hub and they are not in any way a better hub.

Just something to think about if anyone is building a new set of wheels. Lately I got a Podium and needed to rebuild a front carbon wheel with a DT Swiss OS hub (Oversize) to accommodate a 20mm thru axle. There are a few that accept 20mm on a standard hub like Hope and Industry9... worth thinking about for a new expensive wheel build in case other fork manufacturers jump on the 20mm axle bandwagon.
 
I have standard Hope Pro 4 hubs front and rear and have not had a problem in over 3000 klms
 
Endorium said:
This, hub is a hub. I know people on a non ebike can out out more watts than most ebikes.
Click to expand...

Definitely NOT the case. Lots of different hub designs (3 pawl, 6 pawl, ratchet gear/ring, sprag clutches, etc), freehub body materials, hub shell materials, hub shell shapes, and so on.
 
I fitted Industry nine hydra wheelset to my Trek Rail after a downhill run split the standard rim and snapped two spokes.
While the new rims and spokes have been fine so far, I am on my third drive-side bearing in 8000kms... I get less life from a drive bearing than I get out of my Vittoria Mezcal tyres! (and yes the bearings were installed in the correct orientation required for hydra hubs).
 
"i want to run a Deemax DH rear wheel on my bike (to match my front wheel). As shown."

Many DH rear wheels have 157mm axle spacing whereas your ebike is probably 148mm boost spacing.
 
Tom M said:
"i want to run a Deemax DH rear wheel on my bike (to match my front wheel). As shown."

Many DH rear wheels have 157mm axle spacing whereas your ebike is probably 148mm boost spacing.
Click to expand...

Deemax DH comes in both.
 
Tom M said:
"i want to run a Deemax DH rear wheel on my bike (to match my front wheel). As shown."

Many DH rear wheels have 157mm axle spacing whereas your ebike is probably 148mm boost spacing.
Click to expand...
I’m not that stupid, they come in 148
 
ozzybmx said:
Steel freehub body since forever on MTB's. I understand the weight weenie alu freehub bodies for serious XC racers and roadies but the gouging they get even on normal MTB's has always been an issue.

Extra torque on an emtb, a steel freehub is a no brainer.

Decent hubs too as you say. I see people buy these AliExpress hubs and say they are great... until they fail and people are stuck on the trail, then no parts are available or the hub body is mangled, then its a complete wheel rebuild for more cost than getting a quality hub to begin with.

I was a Hope fanboi for 15yrs+, then they got a bit more expensive and became less interchangeable, these days (8yrs now) I'm all DT Swiss. I have a few other sets of blingy hubs like Chris King and Tune but the price of a spare freehub with some of these is the same as a whole DT Swiss hub and they are not in any way a better hub.

Just something to think about if anyone is building a new set of wheels. Lately I got a Podium and needed to rebuild a front carbon wheel with a DT Swiss OS hub (Oversize) to accommodate a 20mm thru axle. There are a few that accept 20mm on a standard hub like Hope and Industry9... worth thinking about for a new expensive wheel build in case other fork manufacturers jump on the 20mm axle bandwagon.
Click to expand...
I was thinking about freehub design in relation to high wattage - seems to me like XD would be the superior choice - in terms of it can’t get all gouged up
 
ozzybmx said:
Steel freehub body since forever on MTB's. I understand the weight weenie alu freehub bodies for serious XC racers and roadies but the gouging they get even on normal MTB's has always been an issue.

Extra torque on an emtb, a steel freehub is a no brainer.

Decent hubs too as you say. I see people buy these AliExpress hubs and say they are great... until they fail and people are stuck on the trail, then no parts are available or the hub body is mangled, then its a complete wheel rebuild for more cost than getting a quality hub to begin with.

I was a Hope fanboi for 15yrs+, then they got a bit more expensive and became less interchangeable, these days (8yrs now) I'm all DT Swiss. I have a few other sets of blingy hubs like Chris King and Tune but the price of a spare freehub with some of these is the same as a whole DT Swiss hub and they are not in any way a better hub.

Just something to think about if anyone is building a new set of wheels. Lately I got a Podium and needed to rebuild a front carbon wheel with a DT Swiss OS hub (Oversize) to accommodate a 20mm thru axle. There are a few that accept 20mm on a standard hub like Hope and Industry9... worth thinking about for a new expensive wheel build in case other fork manufacturers jump on the 20mm axle bandwagon.
Click to expand...
Good call, my 81 year old Father gone DT Swiss on his WILD and they give off high quality vibe when I pulled them apart. Not overly expensive either.
 
hvrider said:
I was thinking about freehub design in relation to high wattage - seems to me like XD would be the superior choice - in terms of it can’t get all gouged up
Click to expand...

Or Microspline
 
I always look for a steel axle because I broke the aluminum axle on my previous hub.
 
RickBullotta said:
That's an HG freehub, not a microspline freehub.
Click to expand...
My apologies. Here is a gouged microspline. I could probably find a better example with more digging. I guess the point I’m trying to make is XD can’t be gouged, but micro spline still can.

But maybe it’s not really an issue (idk, I prefer sram drivetrains anyway)

IMG_4854.webp
 
The vast majority of the time a MS freehub body gets scoring/gauging is when it was incorrectly or inadequately torqued.
 
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