Trek Rail - Gen 4

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My 2024 Trek Rail 9.7 : Gen 4 Bosch Motor, with a 2nd battery for all day riding (total 1500Wh)

I've had this for 2 years now with some superb days out on it : Bike Park Wales, DYFI, Revolution, Afan, Cannock Chase, Forest of Dean, LLandegla, Coed-y-Brenin, Sherwood Pines

55290108713_e64a61a8a3_b.jpg
 
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My 2024 Trek Rail 9.7 : Gen 4 Bosch Motor, with a 2nd battery for all day riding (total 1500Wh)

I've had this for 2 years now with some superb days out on it : Bike Park Wales, DYFI, Revolution, Afan, Cannock Chase, Forest of Dean, LLandegla, Coed-y-Brenin, Sherwood Pines

55290108713_e64a61a8a3_b.jpg
Did a battery swap on my Trek Rail 9.7 this morning. Took out the 650wh battery and tried a 500wh. What A Difference …wow! Less than 20 kms but with steep climbing and gravity back home.

80% battery left. I couldn’t believe it.
IMG_1404.webp

IMG_1403.webp
I’m thinking …things are gonna change. This tank felt like a SL. Fast and nimble.
 
Find the same when install the 500Wh batteries our bikes originally came with, completely changes (improves) the handling.

Isn't only due to the 0.7kg weight reduction from the 3.5kg 625Wh battery to the 2.8kg 500Wh battery, is also due to the weight being lower down and further back.
 
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Find the same when install the 500Wh batteries our bikes originally came with, completely changes (improves) the handling.

Isn't only due to the 0.7kg weight reduction from the 3.5kg 625Wh battery to the 2.8kg 500Wh battery, is also due to the weight being lower down and further back.
Is that all the weight savings? 0.7kg.

Completely changes the feel. Amazing.

Wonder if I should tell my wife? 🤔
 
You can save almost half a kg by removing the battery lock mechanism and RIB. I removed the lock/handle block on the end of the battery and fitted an angled plate which then holds the battery in place with the two bolts through the frame that originally captured the lock mechanism. Yes it now takes a bit longer to remove the battery (I need to undo the 2 bolts and jiggle the battery with its new bracket to slide it out), but now I mostly charge it on the bike. No downsides for me and 440g less up high where you don't want it!

- RIB 160g
- Battery handle unit 70g
- Lock 250g
+ new bracket 40g
Total weight saving 440g
 
Is that all the weight savings? 0.7kg.

Completely changes the feel. Amazing.

Wonder if I should tell my wife? 🤔
That is the weight saving.

As an experiment to see if they really do have better puncture resistance than the previous version (with which we got punctures) instead of front Maxxis Assegais DD fitted EXO+ which are a little lighter (180 grammes) which had much the same effect (centrifugal force and all that). No punctures so far but taking spare tyres etc. with us when we go to France on Thursday for a couple of weeks.
 
You can save almost half a kg by removing the battery lock mechanism and RIB. I removed the lock/handle block on the end of the battery and fitted an angled plate which then holds the battery in place with the two bolts through the frame that originally captured the lock mechanism. Yes it now takes a bit longer to remove the battery (I need to undo the 2 bolts and jiggle the battery with its new bracket to slide it out), but now I mostly charge it on the bike. No downsides for me and 440g less up high where you don't want it!

- RIB 160g
- Battery handle unit 70g
- Lock 250g
+ new bracket 40g
Total weight saving 440g
Did that a couple of years ago, batteries now bolted in. A previous member @RolfRapRap printed the brackets and sold some on eBay which I bought for both 500 and 625 batteries (different bracket lengths).
 
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Did that a couple of years ago, batteries now bolted in. A previous member @RolfRapRap printed the brackets and sold some on eBay which I bought for both 500 and 625 batteries (different bracket lengths).
Swapping out to a smaller 500wh battery is a game changer for me. Could have done this years ago …oh well.

The next step is to get rid of the gen4 locking mechanism on two or three of my Trek’s. There’s a Minor problem though. Sourcing out a supplier that’s not in the EU. Sometimes the logistics of shipping can be difficult to get it here in Canada. Any suggestions? Links?

I haven’t seen this modification or upgrade on any Trek bikes near me. But it looks like it’s worth the effort.
 
Sourcing out a supplier that’s not in the EU. Sometimes the logistics of shipping can be difficult to get it here in Canada. Any suggestions? Links?
When I removed the lock over a year or more ago I don't think Rolph was still selling the 3D printed adapters that irie bought. I just made my own from a right angle steel plate that you can buy from a DIY store and then welded on some nuts to take the two frame bolts. I glued a piece of inner tube around the end that bolts into the frame which serves to fine tune the gap between the battery cover and the frame hole. I recall that someone on this forum was also making the same kind of piece from thicker aluminium, but that was quite some time ago so I doubt if he's still producing them.

This was a prototype I knocked up to test the dimensions and fit. The plate with the label attaches to the end of the battery. If you're a handy DIYer it's a fairly simple job. This was for a 625Wh battery, so you'd need an extended version to take the 500Wh. Hope this helps?

IMG_20260622_170816435.webp
 
When I removed the lock over a year or more ago I don't think Rolph was still selling the 3D printed adapters that irie bought. I just made my own from a right angle steel plate that you can buy from a DIY store and then welded on some nuts to take the two frame bolts. I glued a piece of inner tube around the end that bolts into the frame which serves to fine tune the gap between the battery cover and the frame hole. I recall that someone on this forum was also making the same kind of piece from thicker aluminium, but that was quite some time ago so I doubt if he's still producing them.

This was a prototype I knocked up to test the dimensions and fit. The plate with the label attaches to the end of the battery. If you're a handy DIYer it's a fairly simple job. This was for a 625Wh battery, so you'd need an extended version to take the 500Wh. Hope this helps?

View attachment 187222
Interesting 🤔. I might be able to fabricate something from some alloy angle bracket. (Trial and error stuff).

Maybe add some anti-vibration like Irie suggested.
 
0.7 kilos you say hmm, looks down at sausage and egg belly and considers life choices....ah well;)
But I agree. I think the Trek Rail is massively underrated.
I love mine even after 3 yrs. Not much original stuff left on, but that's half the fun.:love:
 
When I removed the lock over a year or more ago I don't think Rolph was still selling the 3D printed adapters that irie bought. I just made my own from a right angle steel plate that you can buy from a DIY store and then welded on some nuts to take the two frame bolts. I glued a piece of inner tube around the end that bolts into the frame which serves to fine tune the gap between the battery cover and the frame hole. I recall that someone on this forum was also making the same kind of piece from thicker aluminium, but that was quite some time ago so I doubt if he's still producing them.

This was a prototype I knocked up to test the dimensions and fit. The plate with the label attaches to the end of the battery. If you're a handy DIYer it's a fairly simple job. This was for a 625Wh battery, so you'd need an extended version to take the 500Wh. Hope this helps?

View attachment 187222
Or use a spacer to extend the 500Wh battery to the same length as the 625Wh. Is what I did because our Rails came with 500Wh batteries and spacers. Might be Trek part number W582323
 
0.7 kilos you say hmm, looks down at sausage and egg belly and considers life choices....ah well;)
You could save another 300g by removing the aluminium battery cover (it's also aluminium on carbon framed bikes). How many sausage and egg dinners does that equate to? :ROFLMAO:

Of course you'd have to find something to fill the hole. I've considered cutting out a panel from some closed cell foam sheet but haven't been bothered yet.
 
You could save another 300g by removing the aluminium battery cover (it's also aluminium on carbon framed bikes). How many sausage and egg dinners does that equate to? :ROFLMAO:

Of course you'd have to find something to fill the hole. I've considered cutting out a panel from some closed cell foam sheet but haven't been bothered yet.
When I bought the battery lock deletion stuff I also bought lighter (-200gm) battery covers. They creaked and drove Mrs and I crazy so went back to the OEM battery covers.
 
Maybe I should get cutting out my closed cell foam sheet. That won't creak!
 
Maybe I should get cutting out my closed cell foam sheet. That won't creak!
Well I had no idea that the battery cover was alloy…even though the bike is carbon (Rail 9.7). But that makes sense because the covers easily slide into the 500wh or 625wh when you do the swap.…or the final colour swap between her bike and mine (ssshhh 🤫). No adapter necessary since the 500wh battery is exactly the same length as the 625wh battery.
When I bought the battery lock deletion stuff I also bought lighter (-200gm) battery covers. They creaked and drove Mrs and I crazy so went back to the OEM battery covers.
I think I’ll keep the original battery cover for the Rail. It already matches the colour, scratches and dirt. 😉.

So I’ll pickup a short length of alloy angle bracket (probably enough for 3-4) from my local DIY store. I have the drill press, vice, counter sinks, taps, calibration tools, files, etc.

Any tips for cutting or sizing or measuring? I’ll use blue loctight and probably some rubber or foam anti-vibration tape where needed.

Thanks in advance. 🙏
 
Any tips for cutting or sizing or measuring? I’ll use blue loctight and probably some rubber or foam anti-vibration tape where needed.

Thanks in advance. 🙏
Your experience and design will be different to mine if you're using a 500Wh battery rather my longer 625Wh. However, I would advise that you knock up a quick prototype first which will allow you to see where the insertion and removal issues arise, and to fine tune the precise positions for the mounting bolt nuts (or threaded holes) that the two frame bolts will screw into. A couple of pointers:

1 - with the original lock system the battery simply popped out laterally from the frame. This won't be the case with the new bolted system because the bracket that you will make will need to intrude further up inside the frame towards the headtube (because this is where the two fixing bolt holes are). What this means when you come to insert or remove the battery is that you first have to insert the new bracket into the frame hole at the headtube end, then slide the battery up towards the headtube enough to give clearance between the bottom of the battery and the electric connector block that sits at the bottom of the hole in the frame. Now you can insert the bottom of the battery into the frame hole and pull the battery downwards so as to slot the female battery connector into the male connector block in the frame, then push the battery fully flush into the frame. If you've correctly positioned your fixing nuts (or threaded holes) on the end of your bracket these should now align nicely with the two frame holes under the headtube and you can just screw the fixing bolts in. BTW the original bolts here that hold the lock mechanism in place are the Torx type that have a tiny protrusion in the middle of the star hole (can't remember their nomenclature) so you'll need an appropriate Torx key with a central hole in order to get these out. I replaced them with normal bolts!

To remove the battery is the same fiddle in reverse! Once the two fixing bolts under the headtube are removed you'll need to prise the top of the battery cover laterally out from the frame hole a few mm with your fingernails (!). This means that you can now slide the battery up inside the frame in order to pull the male/female battery connectors apart. Now you can pull the bottom of the battery laterally out from the frame hole, and then pull it down so as to slide the bracket at the top of the battery out. Yes, I know this all sounds daunting, and it can sometimes be a bit of a fiddle, but if I've explained myself clearly you will find that once you've discovered the knack it really isn't so hard.

If you look at the photo of my prototype you will notice the odd shaped cut-out in the plate with the retaining nuts. This is necessary in order to provide the clearance around the frame hole to do all this jiggling at the head tube end (because your bracket will be inside the frame at this point while the battery cover will be outside). You can see my red markings to show where I needed to modify the original cut out to give a better jiggling experience" :)

2 - you mention using locktite, presumably on the two fixing bolts into your bracket. If you don't intend to remove your battery now and again, then fine. But what I did was to cut a small strip of inner tube and wrap and stick it around the end plate of my bracket, over the two retaining nuts. This serves two purposes: 1 - it allows me to fine tune the positioning of the battery in the frame hole and hence the frame gap around the battery cover (i'm a bit fussy on aesthetics); 2 - it means that my two fixing bolts have to screw through this rubber to reach their retaining nuts. This acts as a perfect "thread locker" and prevents the bolts from coming loose, but allows easy removal and re-insertion whenever needed. In over several 1000km with this system my fixing bolts have never come loose and I've not had the slightest rattle or noise from it.

I hope this long explanation is coherent and helpful. It took me a while to figure out the details of how to make it all work properly, but once I'd created the prototype it didn't take long to get to the finished version. Sadly I can't show you a video of inserting or removing my battery because my video format is not accepted here!

Good luck with your project!
 
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