Orbea x Avinox Rumours

If the Bosch wasn't such a big fatty downtube creator. I'd of probably cancelled my Avinox Forbidden order last year for a Wild tbh, Really like how they ride but I jusf can't get on with how obese the Bosch bikes look. I know that sounds mad but I got rid of my old Shimano Eeb partly because of that so makes no sense to get something similar 😂


Also, My M1 doesn't rattle 😂
Well my last shimano powered bike had a downtube that was just .25" wider. So not really noticeable. I always thought the Wilds downtube looked fine.
 
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In early February I had knowledge of the new Orbea Wild Avinox as my dealer had some info. He also told me that I'd be waiting until 4th quarter to even get one and paying a lot more than I was able to buy my Bosch Wild for. As such I have zero regrets buying my CX-R Wild and I still have some reservations about the Avinox long term support, rattles, repairability, etc.
I think this is a good decision. When we saw the new Avinox powered bike it did look noticeably slimmer than the Bosch version (there was a Rallon RS there as well and it looked quite close to that) but if I were buying I think the Bosch bike would appeal more for it's power delivery and the dependability of the tried and tested Bosch system. Also I think Bosch have been quite clever in upgrading their software to make the bike more usable in the real world rather than trying to compete directly with DJI. There should be some great deals on the outgoing bikes that are already in bike shops (although I suspect that the ones that Orbea still have will be getting turned into Wild TRs).
The LT is a stunning bike though, no doubt about that.
 
If the Bosch wasn't such a big fatty downtube creator. I'd of probably cancelled my Avinox Forbidden order last year for a Wild tbh, Really like how they ride but I jusf can't get on with how obese the Bosch bikes look. I know that sounds mad but I got rid of my old Shimano Eeb partly because of that so makes no sense to get something similar 😂


Also, My M1 doesn't rattle 😂

It's really a bit of an optical illusion, at least in the case of the Wild.

The Bosch Wild can't fit the 800wh Bosch battery, as such it's pretty narrow in the downtube imo. It's not quite as narrow as the Avinox version, but it's no Yeti Lte!

The other catch is that the Avinox battery (I'm told) is a bit flat and so looks really narrow from side photos, but when on the bike it's not nearly as narrow.

I do think a lot of the small look of the Avinox is around the BB area, but I need chainring protection so that's for naught.

But I get it, I like my bikes to look like my girl, slender and sexy.
 
Internet found... Rear shock looks odd...

FB_IMG_1781626886013.webp
 
AI ?
No sight on the engine.
Front fork looks like after frontal crash
Damper not longer upside down
Language: mix of French and Spanish
The best is the OCJO MC12 wireless engine...
 
If the Bosch wasn't such a big fatty downtube creator. I'd of probably cancelled my Avinox Forbidden order last year for a Wild tbh, Really like how they ride but I jusf can't get on with how obese the Bosch bikes look. I know that sounds mad but I got rid of my old Shimano Eeb partly because of that so makes no sense to get something similar 😂


Also, My M1 doesn't rattle 😂
How does the forbidden drive ? How satisfied are you with it ?
I am currently deciding between a Druid E T2, Wild Bosch cx or even the wild avinox…
 
Why does it have that ugly brace? It looks kind of like it was cobbled together.

View attachment 186794

That 'ugly' brace is a signature Wild feature and purported to improve handling due to increased rigidity around BB area.

My own Wild is the best handling bike I've ever ridden and tracks particularly well when leaned over in rough terrain, so there might be something to it.
 
I like the brace!
as long as the valve of the damper isn't exactly behind it...
or knobs.

i have to unmount the damper to get the pump on it. (old wild fs where the Damper was rotated 180°). but can still happen with some dampers.
 
I hope the motor/dropper controller is wireless.

I'd happy lose the angle adjust headset on the rallon rs too, I just want a normal head tube so you can use a good headset.

Basically, if this is under 22kg, I'm in.
 
I hope the motor/dropper controller is wireless.

I'd happy lose the angle adjust headset on the rallon rs too, I just want a normal head tube so you can use a good headset.

Basically, if this is under 22kg, I'm in.
It looks like the dropper has a cable :-(

1781683159086.webp
 
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if so, i would go for another Seatpost.
Is the controler important for anything else ? could i just go for two DJI Controler ?
 
I'd happy lose the angle adjust headset on the rallon rs too, I just want a normal head tube so you can use a good headset.

And skip a major selling point of the new Rallon/Wild Family ... never ever.
That's one point why I consider buying the new Wild despite that a Rise would suite 95% of the trails I need a e-bike for way better.

Put it in neutral at the front, High Setting (if it gets a FlipChip) and 27," wheel at the back... slap in a 205x60 shock and a 36/Lyrik with a 160mm and you'll have a ±155/160mm Allmountain with CS on the longer side.
Pack in my Vorsprung Telum, the 170mm EXT Era from my Rallon R7 and put it into Low+Slack and its a DoubleBlack Eating Enduro Monster.

Yes it´s a little tricky to handle the headset while putting it together again, but the size of the bearings are at least pretty common ones.
 
And skip a major selling point of the new Rallon/Wild Family ... never ever.
That's one point why I consider buying the new Wild despite that a Rise would suite 95% of the trails I need a e-bike for way better.

Put it in neutral at the front, High Setting (if it gets a FlipChip) and 27," wheel at the back... slap in a 205x60 shock and a 36/Lyrik with a 160mm and you'll have a ±155/160mm Allmountain with CS on the longer side.
Pack in my Vorsprung Telum, the 170mm EXT Era from my Rallon R7 and put it into Low+Slack and its a DoubleBlack Eating Enduro Monster.

Yes it´s a little tricky to handle the headset while putting it together again, but the size of the bearings are at least pretty common ones.
I'd argue that by the time you've swapped forks, shock stroke change so different sag, done the flip chip, the static HA will change around 1* atleast, change in dynamic sag at the shock exaggerating this futher, the HA adjustment becomes redundant. Do you really need ~2* change between the different builds?
 
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It looks like the dropper has a cable :-(

View attachment 186833
The one that I saw didn't have a dropper cable, just the two brake hoses coming off the bars. The dropper was wireless running off the motor battery (as did all the electronic transmission), that's part of the whole RS thing, no separate batteries.
The rear brake hose was routed through a port on the side of the head tube/downtube also, not through the headset.
 
Release date is tomorrow so I'll spill a bit more info about it.
Despite the RS tune being restricted to 750w, the bike does have a boost function which gives 1300w for one minute. Somebody at the presentation that I was at asked them how quickly you could hit boost again and they said that there was no restriction so you could in theory keep hitting the boost button to keep accessing the extra power but they did make the point that one minute of boost would use approximately 5% battery so it wouldn't last long doing that.
 
Release date is tomorrow so I'll spill a bit more info about it.
Despite the RS tune being restricted to 750w, the bike does have a boost function which gives 1300w for one minute. Somebody at the presentation that I was at asked them how quickly you could hit boost again and they said that there was no restriction so you could in theory keep hitting the boost button to keep accessing the extra power but they did make the point that one minute of boost would use approximately 5% battery so it wouldn't last long doing that.

If that’s true this makes the limit even dumber. There has to be a way to bypass it. To limit to 750 but still allow minute bursts at 1300w lmao. How does that not make it “illegal” while still being limited lmao?
 
1 min Turbo with 1300W would be 21,6 Wh if you can reach it. ( 120rpm+ and 200W+ input)

even with the 800Wh Battery the normal M2s could boost to 1500W for one minute.

1500W for 1 Minute is 25Wh. in reality i guess more 30-35Wh for the Battery. so 20 min would be about right


The links shows: you need high rpm to get the power.



but yes it is stupid. I kind of see the point they make / adress. But i would like to create my own Profile.
i don't need 1500W for 5min + but i would like to get 1000W with 100rpm and 250W input for 10min+
 
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I'd argue that by the time you've swapped forks, shock stroke change so different sag, done the flip chip, the static HA will change around 1* atleast, change in dynamic sag at the shock exaggerating this futher, the HA adjustment becomes redundant. Do you really need ~2* change between the different builds?

Yes maybe you won´t need it ... but still nice to have. It it really makes a difference in my Eyes.

I'll only will change between the Builds once or twice a year for aeras like Finale Ligure or Punta Ala, where you can do a lot of pedaling and some legit hard Enduro Trails.

As I said 95% of my riding with it will happen in Allmountain Mode, for Shuttle and Lift serviced Runs I have my Rallon R7. The Wild LT wouldn´t be an Option if there already would be a new Rise with a proper new Motor.
At the moment the perfect Avinox Bike for my use case would be a Pivot Amped Pro ... but that's to expensive for my BikeLeasing Options.
 
I'm sure you're right that it's AI, but FYI the Wild doesn't have a Horst link but a concentric pivot at the axle à la Trek ABP.

Moved to a flex stay, as it’s taken them 8 years to work out how to stop them from endlessly cracking seat stays & they are worried about going bankrupt with warranty claims 😆
 
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