SCOTT Syncros Hixon iC SL / 15mm Rise / integrated cockpit

[NeilJPatron]

Hi all. Quick question about the factory fit Syncros iC SL / 15mm Rise / integrated cockpit on my 2023 SCOTT Patron eRIDE 900 ST Tuned.

So……as I’m getting more familiar with my Patron, the more I’m learning that there’s a lot of factory fit parts that are quickly becoming form over function, so to speak.

Don’t get me wrong, I did buy one hell of a bike for a newbie at a price I couldn’t refuse for a brand new, £10.5k original RRP.

There’s a few things I would like to change in order to make the geo a bit more adjustable, and clean up the bars/stem/cockpit as it is from the factory.

I’d like to fit a separate bar-stem configuration, some narrower bars (yes, I know I can cut the factory bars down but I want to keep all the original parts should I want to go back to standard), replacing the Kiox 300 with the Purion 200 to clean up the stem area……I’m sure you’ll understand.

Also, I have asked this before in a separate thread, but does anyone know of any aftermarket lockout/dropper post levers that aren’t so cluttered, yet retain the functionality, are more compact, and aren’t so ugly?

 

[elvendawn]

I'm curious, do you use the lockouts much (if at all) on the e-bike? As an alternate option, just remove lockout cables/twinlock levers and get a single dropper lever. I got rid of it on my Ransom and was much better off when needing to work the dropper.

 

[NeilJPatron]

I'm curious, do you use the lockouts much (if at all) on the e-bike? As an alternate option, just remove lockout cables/twinlock levers and get a single dropper lever. I got rid of it on my Ransom and was much better off when needing to work the dropper.

To be honest………..no.

I’ve been playing around with the two different settings on fire road climbs and flat trails and never noticed any difference between fully open/half/full locked out.

It maybe useful for someone, somewhere but I can’t see it being beneficial for what I’m using the bike for.

The levers look hideous, the cables add to the visual eyesore and I can’t imagine how they used to be when they incorporated the fork adjustable lockout mechanism into the previous version!

I’m running FOX 38 FIT Factory Grip 2 Air Kashima’s. So fortunately don’t have to worry about the front end

I definitely think the lockout delete will be the best thing to do. Single lever for the dropper…….the Fox branded one looks pretty trick. If you’ve any other suggestions for the dropper lever replacement let me know

I’m also looking at fitting a Purion 200 display in place of the LED controller and deleting the Kiox 300 display clutter too.

Cheers. Neil.

 

[elvendawn]

I definitely think the lockout delete will be the best thing to do. Single lever for the dropper…….the Fox branded one looks pretty trick. If you’ve any other suggestions for the dropper lever replacement let me know

I suggest going with what you like for the lever, for the most part they are going to work similar, with some being slightly better (just my opinion though). I've used TranzX, Bike Yokes, Wolf Tooth long, OneUp v2 remote, and OneUp v3 remote and so far OneUp v3 is my favorite, or could be just that the v3 complete dropper system is great .

 

[elvendawn]

To be honest………..no.

I’ve been playing around with the two different settings on fire road climbs and flat trails and never noticed any difference between fully open/half/full locked out.

It maybe useful for someone, somewhere but I can’t see it being beneficial for what I’m using the bike for.

Agreed, I didn't find much use for it on a 170/170mm enduro bike, I can see the argument for "more efficient" climbing for xc racers or for 10 year old bikes (not sure when twinlock was developed) with poor anti-rise/squat kinematics, but most modern bikes are much better in that regard including Scott bikes. I'm guessing its part of their heritage so they use everywhere, but seems like unnecessary complication for most people with modern bikes.

 

[NeilJPatron]

I suggest going with what you like for the lever, for the most part they are going to work similar, with some being slightly better (just my opinion though). I've used TranzX, Bike Yokes, Wolf Tooth long, OneUp v2 remote, and OneUp v3 remote and so far OneUp v3 is my favorite, or could be just that the v3 complete dropper system is great .

You’ve done a bit of market research then!

I’ll take a look at each, thanks for the advice.

Out of curiosity, what bars are you running and do the aftermarket dropper lever bar clamps differ from manufacturer to manufacturer?

 

[elvendawn]

You’ve done a bit of market research then!

I’ll take a look at each, thanks for the advice.

Out of curiosity, what bars are you running and do the aftermarket dropper lever bar clamps differ from manufacturer to manufacturer?

I currently ride OneUp v2 carbon bars 800mm (cut to 760mm) in 50mm rise, too bad they don't sell the 760mm version in 50mm rise. I briefly tried PNW Loam carbon 31.8mm bars cut to 760mm in 38mm rise, but the extra backsweep was bothering my wrists - It's a minor thing that I was surprised it had such an affect. I definitely like the OneUp v2 better. Previous few bikes I've used Nookproof Horizon v2 31.8mm carbon bars with like 12mm rise and was pretty happy with it, but have interested in joining the high rise trend. I've also used OneUp v1 bars which were fine, Syncros Hixon iC bars on XC bikes - I think it looks cool, but with no ability to rotate bars for/aft I didn't stick with them long. OneUp v2 bars are well loved by many, so worth checking out.

Not 100% sure what you are asking about for dropper levers, but the lever action itself doesn't differ much, some use bearings to try to make it smoother, some have shorter or longer levers - longer is generally easier/lighter but needs more distance with the thumb, shorter would be more effort but faster to respond, etc. Wolf tooth now also has an interesting looking 360deg lever, that I've not seen before.

 

[NeilJPatron]

Interesting that you’ve been trying so many different methods to get the best results for your riding, and I understand we’re all different shapes and sizes but I’ve really been struggling with getting feedback from anyone else. Couldn’t ask for more. Thank you.

Both my wrists are wrecked and have been reconstructed after a motorcycle crash years ago.

Repeating myself but ……..goals are to do away with the one piece Syncros iC SL factory setup, which allows for an adjustable stem as you’ve mentioned/opens up the options for aftermarket bars. Tidy up the centre Kiox mount/cables.

Lose the 3 factory seat post/lockout levers, replacing them with a single seat post lever on its own.

You’ve been a legend in passing on your suggestions.

I’ll probably spend the rest of the evening baffled about everything but having fun looking…….and very probably spending a few quid.

 

[NeilJPatron]

I currently ride OneUp v2 carbon bars 800mm (cut to 760mm) in 50mm rise, too bad they don't sell the 760mm version in 50mm rise. I briefly tried PNW Loam carbon 31.8mm bars cut to 760mm in 38mm rise, but the extra backsweep was bothering my wrists - It's a minor thing that I was surprised it had such an affect. I definitely like the OneUp v2 better. Previous few bikes I've used Nookproof Horizon v2 31.8mm carbon bars with like 12mm rise and was pretty happy with it, but have interested in joining the high rise trend. I've also used OneUp v1 bars which were fine, Syncros Hixon iC bars on XC bikes - I think it looks cool, but with no ability to rotate bars for/aft I didn't stick with them long. OneUp v2 bars are well loved by many, so worth checking out.

Not 100% sure what you are asking about for dropper levers, but the lever action itself doesn't differ much, some use bearings to try to make it smoother, some have shorter or longer levers - longer is generally easier/lighter but needs more distance with the thumb, shorter would be more effort but faster to respond, etc. Wolf tooth now also has an interesting looking 360deg lever, that I've not seen before.

Soooo……breaking each step down, stem/bar clamp.
I’ve not found much on YouTube for anyone who’s done what I’m after on there for the Patron, but Brendon Fairclough had his bike fitted with a Diety copperhead stem, Diety bars, and lost the Kiox mount.

Not sure if I’m right here, but it appears that he’s retained the Acros headset and the copperhead is fitted to that?

 

[NeilJPatron]

 

[elvendawn]

Interesting that you’ve been trying so many different methods to get the best results for your riding, and I understand we’re all different shapes and sizes but I’ve really been struggling with getting feedback from anyone else. Couldn’t ask for more. Thank you.

Both my wrists are wrecked and have been reconstructed after a motorcycle crash years ago.

Repeating myself but ……..goals are to do away with the one piece Syncros iC SL factory setup, which allows for an adjustable stem as you’ve mentioned/opens up the options for aftermarket bars. Tidy up the centre Kiox mount/cables.

Lose the 3 factory seat post/lockout levers, replacing them with a single seat post lever on its own.

You’ve been a legend in passing on your suggestions.

I’ll probably spend the rest of the evening baffled about everything but having fun looking…….and very probably spending a few quid.

Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on prospective) we are all different and prefer different things, cockpit is generally one of those things that is more preference than anything else. Best thing you can do is try different things to see what you do and don't like.

Can also check out the many different reviews out there on YT or bike blogs etc - but I take most of that with a grain of salt since they're often just trying to sell something, but can also give good points based on their experience I might not have thought about.

Can also get some deals on used parts from marketplace or pinkbike when trying find a setup you like, without having to invest in new stuff at first. Like you said just have fun with it trying new things.

 

[NeilJPatron]

Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on prospective) we are all different and prefer different things, cockpit is generally one of those things that is more preference than anything else. Best thing you can do is try different things to see what you do and don't like.

Can also check out the many different reviews out there on YT or bike blogs etc - but I take most of that with a grain of salt since they're often just trying to sell something, but can also give good points based on their experience I might not have thought about.

Can also get some deals on used parts from marketplace or pinkbike when trying find a setup you like, without having to invest in new stuff at first. Like you said just have fun with it trying new things.

Exactly that great for a bike magpie/bike tart. lol.

 

[elvendawn]

Soooo……breaking each step down, stem/bar clamp.
I’ve not found much on YouTube for anyone who’s done what I’m after on there for the Patron, but Brendon Fairclough had his bike fitted with a Diety copperhead stem, Diety bars, and lost the Kiox mount.

Not sure if I’m right here, but it appears that he’s retained the Acros headset and the copperhead is fitted to that?

So I don't really know a whole lot about Scott's cable routed headset, my Ransom and Scale were before they started that. But I'm pretty sure the Stem (in your case is also integrated with the bars), is not attached to the headset, they are separate. It sounds confusing since your have an integrated stem/bars, and cable routing integrated into your headset. You should be able to fit a normal stem on there that can fit 35mm or 31.8mm bars in it. Cable would route through the headset outside the stem and seem to be covered up by an outer plastic piece that might attach with the stem cap.

If you are going with the Purion 200 I'm guessing losing the Kiox mount isn't a big issue? Also Scott probably sells Syncros stems that are probably similar to your iC bar/stem combo that can accept standard bars. https://www.syncros.com/us/en/products/syn-mountain-cockpit-stems

 

[NeilJPatron]

Correct re the Kiox as I’m getting more familiar with the DH/Enduro riding, and my confidence levels and (cough’s) skills are improving, the more I understand the capabilities of the bike are way more than I’m ever going to be able to match.

But, trying to find my way out of the ‘all the gear, no idea’ quagmire, I did buy the bike from a ‘I’d rather be looking at it, than for it’ perspective.

The price I paid for a brand new ‘23 bike with the spec it has couldn’t be replicated in a 25/26 bike for the same money.

Getting back to the Kiox, I do appreciate the amount of riding data it provides, but I now see it as being an expensive, vulnerable item…….riding DH with it attached or not, the mount is still likely to take a hit at some point, when the inevitable bike-meets-countryside happens.

Arguably we could say the same about the Purion, but at least the Purion will give me the data I’d like to have but with the benefit of removing a couple of more cables from the visual spaghetti that is the lockout/Kiox etc carry on.