Cane Creek Electric Wings Crankarms - Incredible Price

RickBullotta

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Joined
Jun 5, 2019
Messages
2,276
Reaction score
2,079
Location
USA
For folks in the USA or who can buy from the USA, this is a ridiculous deal on the Cane Creek titanium crankarms. They're compatible with ISIS mount systems, and are literally half price right now - and cheaper than they've ever been ($495 USD). They're 165mm, but they ride more like 155-160mm because of the design of the pedal mounting area.

 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — Living Intelligence Reports, exclusive discounts & ad-free Up to 25% off Peaty's, PEMBREE, Magicshine & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Only 165.
I would’ve got em at 155mm

Look at the design though. They ride more like a 155 or 160 in terms of clearance. Different design with less overhang in the pedal area.
 
Look at the design though. They ride more like a 155 or 160 in terms of clearance. Different design with less overhang in the pedal area.
The part I’m worried about is the end of the crank arm being hit, pushing spindle into the bearings, while motor is powered (occasionally causing full motor stop for a millisecond under full power )Very temporary but very harsh motor resistance. That is what hurts ebiz motors. 10mm clearance is a lot. I’m sure they are nice, but I’m headed to 150-155 once I find some like these.
 
What's funny is that these were $1500 when first released, which was just stupid.

Anyways, I do love my EEwings on my trail bike and they have lasted over 3 bikes for many years.

If these e-bike cranks were available in 155mm's at this price I'd order a set.
 
The part I’m worried about is the end of the crank arm being hit, pushing spindle into the bearings, while motor is powered (occasionally causing full motor stop for a millisecond under full power )Very temporary but very harsh motor resistance. That is what hurts ebiz motors. 10mm clearance is a lot. I’m sure they are nice, but I’m headed to 150-155 once I find some like these.
The poster's point is that most cranks have about 10mm of material past the pedal shaft hole whereas these don't which means that these have better clearance than most 165mm cranks.

crank-clearancefinal.jpg
 
The poster's point is that most cranks have about 10mm of material past the pedal shaft hole whereas these don't which means that these have better clearance than most 165mm cranks.

crank-clearancefinal.jpg
Ohhhhhh……… 👌🏻
Still not as much clearance as 155mm
 
I picked these up on this sale before I saw this thread, I was already looking for 165mm replacements and looked like they actually fit my Druid. I read people say the bb is low on my bike, but looking at the geo charts it has the same bb drop as my last two bikes 🤷‍♂️. I rarely get pedal strikes and when I do it's usually my laziness, plus the stock 150mm doesn't feel right to me.
Not sure I care able the 6.3mm of extra arm clearance, though I guess it's nice to have. By that I mean if I'm going to get a strike it's usually b/c I'm leaning towards a downward arm and it's the pedal that gets hit not the crank, and the pedal will still be 15mm lower than a 150mm crank.
 
The poster's point is that most cranks have about 10mm of material past the pedal shaft hole whereas these don't which means that these have better clearance than most 165mm cranks.

crank-clearancefinal.jpg
However, the pedal is still at 165mm. Most of my strikes are pedal strikes and not crank strikes. That’s why I’m not interested.
 
I picked these up on this sale before I saw this thread, I was already looking for 165mm replacements and looked like they actually fit my Druid. I read people say the bb is low on my bike, but looking at the geo charts it has the same bb drop as my last two bikes 🤷‍♂️. I rarely get pedal strikes and when I do it's usually my laziness, plus the stock 150mm doesn't feel right to me.
Not sure I care able the 6.3mm of extra arm clearance, though I guess it's nice to have. By that I mean if I'm going to get a strike it's usually b/c I'm leaning towards a downward arm and it's the pedal that gets hit not the crank, and the pedal will still be 15mm lower than a 150mm crank.

Those 150s are ISIS standard correct (unfortunate name!). Want to sell them?
 
However, the pedal is still at 165mm. Most of my strikes are pedal strikes and not crank strikes. That’s why I’m not interested.

LOL. I love the internet. Humans will literally defend a number. Just like most people can't tell the difference between a 44 and 51mm offset fork, 99.98% of humans can't notice any practical difference between 165 and 155mm crankarm lengths in terms of pedal strikes. And TBH, a wider pedal will have as much impact. Whatever works for you!
 
Powerslider said:
However, the pedal is still at 165mm. Most of my strikes are pedal strikes and not crank strikes. That’s why I’m not interested
LOL. I love the internet. Humans will literally defend a number. Just like most people can't tell the difference between a 44 and 51mm offset fork, 99.98% of humans can't notice any practical difference between 165 and 155mm crankarm lengths in terms of pedal strikes. And TBH, a wider pedal will have as much impact. Whatever works for you!

So you believe that:

1. The majority of 'pedal strikes' are crank strikes rather than pedal strikes.

2. A crank length of 165mm is comparable to a crank length of 155mm.

3. Crank length differences are comparable with fork offset differences.

Numbers eh?
laugh.gif
 
So you believe that:

1. The majority of 'pedal strikes' are crank strikes rather than pedal strikes.

2. A crank length of 165mm is comparable to a crank length of 155mm.

3. Crank length differences are comparable with fork offset differences.

Numbers eh?
laugh.gif

No, but I believe that 10mm isn't a big difference with 390mm of BB height, and that those who claim it is should learn better riding technique. LOL
 
LOL. I love the internet. Humans will literally defend a number. Just like most people can't tell the difference between a 44 and 51mm offset fork, 99.98% of humans can't notice any practical difference between 165 and 155mm crankarm lengths in terms of pedal strikes. And TBH, a wider pedal will have as much impact. Whatever works for you!
I’m “defending” keeping MY pedals 10mm higher from the ground. I’m not attacking anyone for their approach, but that is mine. This is pretty easy to find comfort in when I already paid for my 155s and would be spending money to move my pedals closer to obstacles.
 
Last edited:
No, but I believe that 10mm isn't a big difference with 390mm of BB height, and that those who claim it is should learn better riding technique. LOL
Perhaps this post will help?

 
I can tell the difference between the $100 I paid for my Praxxis carbon cranks and the $899.99 that Cane Creak is asking for their 3D printed cranks.

Ha! Truth. I did get them a half price though. They are a thing of beauty when you see them in person
 
I hope y'all know I'm just trolling a bit here. Whatever works best for you is what is best.

Go ride!
 
If I’m hitting pedals or cranks 1-2 times a ride. 10mm could make the difference. Even a glancing blow is better than a full hit.
I’m a pretty decent rider. Most times I carry enough momentum to keep pedals level over rocky peaks. I never worried about strikes on my analog. On my Levo they make me cringe.
I think 10mm could be a noticeable difference.
 
So many factors of course. Tire size, shape and pressure. Fork axle-to-crown measurement, sag, spring rate, travel. BB drop in suspension design and shock setup. Crank length. Pedal size/shape.
 
So many factors of course. Tire size, shape and pressure. Fork axle-to-crown measurement, sag, spring rate, travel. BB drop in suspension design and shock setup. Crank length. Pedal size/shape.
Only 2 factors that really matter
Speed
Technique
🏁🤘🏼🏁
 
I will say that the lower lug length on CC Ti cranks is a real thing. Obviously from a seat height perspective, cadence perspective, pedal strike perspective, etc. it doesn't matter.

But when I went to the same length CC EEwings years ago from some CF cranks that hung down another 10mm or whatever, the difference was very real and my cranks were absolutely contacting the ground a lot less. I do not regret that purchase at all.

I really do think they are an exceptional product and I'm a total weight weenie. My pedal bike has lots of overpriced lightweight items installed. That said, on a 50# e-bike, that takes a beating, that cranks don't even weigh much because there is no spindle, I really think Al cranks are the way to go. That said, I'm rocking a bent E13 Al crank on my Relay at this very moment!
 
Perhaps this post will help?


Not really, that thread is fairly evenly split between ‘my cranks keep rubbing on the ground, can I take them off’ and ‘just ride better’
 
Not really, that thread is fairly evenly split between ‘my cranks keep rubbing on the ground, can I take them off’ and ‘just ride better’
irie said:
Re: Cranks - a "stack of cash" of about £55 ($70?) buys you 10mm more ground clearance which is proportionally 'quite a lot' (especially when your suspension is compressed).

In general the frequency of pedal strikes is a non linear function of pedal height.
 
Last edited:
Mounted up the new cranks on my Amflow today - no noticeable increase in pedal strikes! About 75-80 grams lighter than the OEM Amflow crank arms, they look great, and they don't hang below the pedal body.

I also upgraded my pedals to the new style XTR platform pedals. Like those too!
 
It would be cool to polish and send a set through a laser engraver. Like the rotary ones for cups. Do a cool topo, or geometric pattern. These are very cool cranks.
I’m just not spending money to get same size. My strikes are rare, but violent. I’m sure we will see some shorties coming.
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    676K
    Messages
    41,998
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top