Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Because I’m a food technologist, built a company and employ engineers but I haven’t a clue how to work a phone forum thing.Why are you starting a 3rd thread on this issue?
![]()
Can I put a bigger chainring on it? Does it fit?
I bought a 2nd amflow spider. I’m popping down to a local engineering shop and getting 1.7 mm of material removed from the spider arms to increase the distance from the suspension arm. Wow, I've seen crazy things, but this takes the cake. So you're purposely making the material weaker on 120Nm...www.emtbforums.com
![]()
Chain ring swap
Hi, Has anyone swapped the standard 34 chainring to a 36 ?, is it possible without remove the spider which requires a specific Amflow tool. I was hoping to avoid that. Also, it looks like the crank arms are self extracting, i.e. you just unwind the bolt against the end cap and the arm is...www.emtbforums.com
If you can't figure out basic reply to threads functionality, I would question how other decisions are made by you.Because I’m a food technologist, built a company and employ engineers but I haven’t a clue how to work a phone forum thing.
I had another no nothing with an opinion the other day. Show me your maths on bearing load/material fail. Mine says it won’t fail and been out 2 hour this afternoon and had no issues. Gonna run the figures past material strength experts for validation then flog the solution on eBay for £149 a pop.If you can't figure out basic reply to threads functionality, I would question how other decisions are made by you.
But I'll rest my case, you shaved material of the critical component on the bike. You don't have to say anything else.
Now I'm thinking 40/42T might fitGonna run the figures past material strength experts for validation then flog the solution on eBay for £149 a pop.![]()
I used a sram 38t it snagged.Just confirming on this thread that I fitted a HOPE R22 38T Chainring to a silver Amflow without any mods, it physically fits and there have been no problems whatsoever in use. I tried flexing the bike with my foot against the crank and there is no detectable movement in the clearance between the chainring & chainstay. When you ride the bike the clearance increases, the point where the chainring is closest to the chainstay is very close to the pivot point of the chainstay. 38T is an option in the software and the chain guide bracket can be adjusted around it's pivot to fit the ring without any further mods too.
For other who read this….. the above poster is a know all-know f all troll with an opinion. Despite repeated requests for material fail calculations I have received nothing. The shop I used did the engineering calculations and do work for aerospace industry. It’s sound.For others who read this - don't ever do what this guy does. Purposely weaking structural piece of drivetrain that carries a load is stupid and dangerous.
You are correct, however Amflow torque means 1-7 are not used, the whole point of a bigger chainring is to try and get away from the smallest sprocket and in this case the 2mm chainline change actually helps centre the chain better around the gears you use.To the OP. You have done 2 things.
1) Chainline is pushed out. This will impact low gear cross chaining. Impacting shifting, cassette, chain and chainring wear. Side loads will be greater.
Thanks for the info, interesting, the steel teeth must be longer than the Alloy ones? If anything you would expect an alloy ring to be thicker than a steel one.I used a sram 38t it snagged.
Don’t know in the diameter difference on steel vs alloy….. the steel ring is 4mm thick, I have a 36t alloy and it has a 5mm spine at its widest but the steel is really hard, obviously.Thanks for the info, interesting, the steel teeth must be longer than the Alloy ones? If anything you would expect an alloy ring to be thicker than a steel one.
You are correct, i confuddled radius with diameter. The ring sits 4mm lower.Radius should be 4 mm more for a 38 then a 36, so 2 mm lower is a bit optimistic. With the angle of the stays I would probably also need the 2 mm offset for clearance, got to measure that
Yeah im sticking with the SRAM 11-50, I find 10 is too fond of slipping when biking in New Zealand. I was out this morning; it's fast... obliterated trail times....Strava would not validate my time and sent me a message about a suspected vehicle.I say, give it a try. See if it was overengineered "probably" and keep an eye on it to see if it is suitable for the loads. If not then we will be graced with a 4th thread for Version 2.
I may not use 1st gear much. But 2nd and 3rd I use all the time when climbing technical areas. And I'm only on the 34T chainring.You are correct, however Amflow torque means 1-7 are not used,
What cadence are you cycling at? Your comment suggests you're never below 9mph-ish?You are correct, however Amflow torque means 1-7 are not used, the whole point of a bigger chainring is to try and get away from the smallest sprocket and in this case the 2mm chainline change actually helps centre the chain better around the gears you use.
Mullet 27.5 rear wheel and USA bike, lightweight rider and yes, low cadence when possible.What cadence are you cycling at? Your comment suggests you're never below 9mph-ish?
I'd say I ride every gear with a near bell curve mileage distribution centred on gear 8 but nearly every ride I'll be down to 2nd and up to 11 depending on terrain.
34 tooth front would get you the 6% ish you lost back from the mullet.Mullet 27.5 rear wheel and USA bike, lightweight rider and yes, low cadence when possible.
70-80 rpm. I’m using the center gears most and am hitting 49kph on flat flat fire roads.What cadence are you cycling at? Your comment suggests you're never below 9mph-ish?
I'd say I ride every gear with a near bell curve mileage distribution centred on gear 8 but nearly every ride I'll be down to 2nd and up to 11 depending on terrain.
I aim for an 80-90 cadence, so I think that makes sense, you’re adjusting your ratios up by 18% over a 32T so if I’m doing 88rpm you’d be doing 74/75rpm, all about where you’re comfortable70-80 rpm. I’m using the center gears most and am hitting 49kph on flat flat fire roads.
Just did the 34t to 36t swap.
Anyone unable to order from Amflow, AliExpress has the tool to fit. $19.49au with whatever currency conversion that may be to your country.
For a chainring swap, the chainring tool is required to remove the spider, also not a bad idea to have it in your spares anyway, just in case. My Bosch gen4 lockring used to mysteriously loosen itself regularly.
Tool is the B29.
![]()
Fahrrad-Mittelwellen-Innen sechs kant werkzeug b23/26/29/30 41mm 16 Zähne 46mm 12 Zähne Keil verzahnung Acht Zähne Schnapp-Zentr ier wellen werkzeug - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comwww.aliexpress.com