Bosch CX Motors: Chainring Spider Nut Loosening

RustyIron

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It's no secret that the spider nut loosens on Gen 4 motors, but since by bike had over 2600 miles on it, I didn't think it would be a problem. I was mistaken. I'm sharing these pictures for those who have never looked closely at the issue and who might want to be prepared.

As you can see from the pictures, the nut screws onto output shaft of the motor. One might assume that's a simple thing--until you look closely. There are a couple weaknesses that are glaringly obvious. The threaded output shaft has an interrupted thread. Generally, the thread holding ability of a fastener is diminished in proportion to the amount of missing threads. In this case, the engagement of the remaining threads is about 40%. That means the nut is 60% weaker right off the top. Additionally, the thickness of the nut is 5 mm. Generally, you would want the thickness of a nut to be about 0.8 times that of the thread. The thread is 30 mm, so optimally, we'd want a nut 24 mm thick. To complicate the matter further, the nut is aluminum.

IMG_6311.JPG

IMG_6324.JPG

My spider wasn't loose for long. I was five miles into the ride when it went floppy, so it was loose for less distance than that. Regardless, the spider suffered sufficient damage to render it unusable. Take a look at the attached pictures to see how deformed the teeth are. Further, the deformation resulted in the flat clamping surfaces to be raised at the tips of the teeth. On the front side, the surface was raised by 0.010", on the back about half that. If I was to reinstall the used spider, I'd be tightening the nut on tiny high-spots. It surely wouldn't take long for these high spots to flatten down, creating play, allowing the nut to loosen once again. If your spider gets loose, just go ahead an buy a new one.

IMG_6372.JPG

IMG_6374.JPG

IMG_6319.JPG

Bosch recommends torquing the nut to 25-30 Nm. There are anecdotal claims that a service bulletin that recommends 40 Nm and grease, but I can't find that bulletin. I decided to figure it out on my own. I assumed 6061-T6, 30 mm x 1 mm thread, 5 mm nut thickness, and 40% thread engagement. Do the math, and it comes to 50 Nm. I chose 49 Nm and medium strength Loctite.

After it was all assembled, I marked the nut and spider with a paint marker. If anything starts to loosen, I'll spot it early.
 
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Very Tech approach!! (y) I have said repeatedly on here that the nut is single use only for the simple reason that given the material ( ally) of the nut and the relatively small amount of thread.....onto a steel thread, even the lower torque specification will be designed to "spread" the thread of the nut in order to achieve maximum thread friction.

I am not totally with you in terms of the torque you have chosen to use however. You risk getting to the shear point of the thread rather than maximum friction. The higher torque setting some have said is now recommended.....if used with grease on the thread....is probably the same as the lower torque setting on a clean dry thread. The use of threadlock will have a similar impact on torque depending on how much of the thread is wetted with it. I would most certainly not use grease other than a smear on both faces of the nut which would help to isolate the nut from any slight spider distortion or crank movement on the spindle, either of which could be the cause of the lock nut loosening.

Personally, I would mount a new nut on a clean dry thread and torque to whatever specification is stamped on the nut purchased.
 
I have said repeatedly on here that the nut is single use only

Agreed. I would expect to see deformation of the treaded area.

I am not totally with you in terms of the torque you have chosen to use however.

You could very well be right. All I know for sure is that Bosch blew it. I'm pretty confident I can do better. I'll report back in 2700 miles.

I would most certainly not use grease other than a smear on both faces of the nut

Right? I'll NEVER recommend grease on threads. If galling is a concern, use anti-seize. And yes, I DID use anti seize on the spider, while being extremely careful not to contaminate the threads. I don't know if it will do anything, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. The original nut was stamped 25 Nm - 30 Nm. The new nut is stamped 35 Nm.

I think the nut is intended to be "sacrificial," where it can fail without buggering up the motor shaft. Unfortunately, they engineered failure into the design. I was tempted to just machine a new nut out of 303, but thought better of it.
 

Not come loose since June 2024.

Edit: 2024
 
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Not come loose since June 2023.
I think the o ring only serves as a dust seal and there needs to be a recess for it to sit against. It seems some makes of chain ring do not have that recess.
 
Agreed. I would expect to see deformation of the treaded area.



You could very well be right. All I know for sure is that Bosch blew it. I'm pretty confident I can do better. I'll report back in 2700 miles.



Right? I'll NEVER recommend grease on threads. If galling is a concern, use anti-seize. And yes, I DID use anti seize on the spider, while being extremely careful not to contaminate the threads. I don't know if it will do anything, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. The original nut was stamped 25 Nm - 30 Nm. The new nut is stamped 35 Nm.

I think the nut is intended to be "sacrificial," where it can fail without buggering up the motor shaft. Unfortunately, they engineered failure into the design. I was tempted to just machine a new nut out of 303, but thought better of it.
New lock rings marked with 35nm are presumably a higher grade ally?
 
Already been done to death in earlier threads.

(For example, "Search" for 35nm)
 
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It's no secret that the spider nut loosens on Gen 4 motors, but since by bike had over 2600 miles on it, I didn't think it would be a problem. I was mistaken. I'm sharing these pictures for those who have never looked closely at the issue and who might want to be prepared.

As you can see from the pictures, the nut screws onto output shaft of the motor. One might assume that's a simple thing--until you look closely. There are a couple weaknesses that are glaringly obvious. The threaded output shaft has an interrupted thread. Generally, the thread holding ability of a fastener is diminished in proportion to the amount of missing threads. In this case, the engagement of the remaining threads is about 40%. That means the nut is 60% weaker right off the top. Additionally, the thickness of the nut is 5 mm. Generally, you would want the thickness of a nut to be about 0.8 times that of the thread. The thread is 30 mm, so optimally, we'd want a nut 24 mm thick. To complicate the matter further, the nut is aluminum.

View attachment 169036

View attachment 169040

My spider wasn't loose for long. I was five miles into the ride when it went floppy, so it was loose for less distance than that. Regardless, the spider suffered sufficient damage to render it unusable. Take a look at the attached pictures to see how deformed the teeth are. Further, the deformation resulted in the flat clamping surfaces to be raised at the tips of the teeth. On the front side, the surface was raised by 0.010", on the back about half that. If I was to reinstall the used spider, I'd be tightening the nut on tiny high-spots. It surely wouldn't take long for these high spots to flatten down, creating play, allowing the nut to loosen once again. If your spider gets loose, just go ahead an buy a new one.

View attachment 169037

View attachment 169038

View attachment 169039

Bosch recommends torquing the nut to 25-30 Nm. There are anecdotal claims that a service bulletin that recommends 40 Nm and grease, but I can't find that bulletin. I decided to figure it out on my own. I assumed 6061-T6, 30 mm x 1 mm thread, 5 mm nut thickness, and 40% thread engagement. Do the math, and it comes to 50 Nm. I chose 49 Nm and medium strength Loctite.

After it was all assembled, I marked the nut and spider with a paint marker. If anything starts to loosen, I'll spot it early.
Good work soldier
 
I think this is an ongoing frustration for a lot of us. Mine (Cube Stereo Hybrid) has come loose 3x since April'23 (initially lasted a year but now only lasting approx 2500kms)
 
Luulen, että tämä on jatkuva turhautumisen aihe monille meistä. Minun (Cube Stereo Hybrid) autoni on irronnut kolme kertaa huhtikuun 2023 jälkeen (alkuperäin kesti vuoden, mutta nyt vain noin 2500 km).
Loctite 243 sinistä kierre lukitetta muutama tippa puhdistettuun kierteeseen. Momenttiin noin 40Nw, ei aukea itsestään.
 
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