First time on a Mondraker 2025 Crafty R

Much better, but after I added the 0.1" spacer so to have a total amount of 0.3” cubic inches, cause I still bottomed out a few times.
Now it seems perfect for me, I'm about 74 kg and have set it to 195 psi.
I also added the LSC dial, but after all maybe it wasn't necessary.

View attachment 165162
I see that the 0.1 cc spacer fits the 0.5, it have some kind of bed where it stuck, the 0.1 is compatible with the 0.2cc spacer?
 
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I see that the 0.1 cc spacer fits the 0.5, it have some kind of bed where it stuck, the 0.1 is compatible with the 0.2cc spacer?
Yes, there is no bed on the 0.2" spacer but you can stack them, put the 0.2 first and then the 0.1 facing the bearing housing assy.
You can use the 0.1" with any of the other spacers, according to this chart:
 

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Hello, anybody experienced unscrewing of right lower link bolt? I mean the one right behind che chainring.
It's third time it happens in less than two months, the other screws are always tight.
 
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Mine was the other one from the other side,applied some torque and it’s rock solid since then
 
Hello, anybody experienced unscrewing of right lower link bolt? I mean the one right behind che chainring.
It's third time it happens in less than two months, the other screws are always tight.
It's a known failure. Check it on the forums. The insert has some issues in the frame. Is the inside of the frames ok? It seems some Crack there
 
Hello, anybody experienced unscrewing of right lower link bolt? I mean the one right behind che chainring.
It's third time it happens in less than two months, the other screws are always tight.
1754899041819.png

This one in the red circle? which requires to takes of the chain guide, crank arm and chainring?

Does anyone now if the tool from the picture below will be ok to take off chain ring nut (green cirle)? This is a 8 tooth as nut.

1754899109305.png
 
View attachment 166108
This one in the red circle? which requires to takes of the chain guide, crank arm and chainring?

Does anyone now if the tool from the picture below will be ok to take off chain ring nut (green cirle)? This is a 8 tooth as nut.

View attachment 166109
Yes, that's it.
I bought this tool on Amazon, you can use with a torque wrench with a 1/2" adaptor.
 
Hello, anybody experienced unscrewing of right lower link bolt? I mean the one right behind che chainring.
It's third time it happens in less than two months, the other screws are always tight.
Yes, Its happened to me twice, i just used some thread locker and so far its been fine
 
Yes, that's it.
I bought this tool on Amazon, you can use with a torque wrench with a 1/2" adaptor.

So this tool for sure is good ? I'm replacing my transmision tomorrow with X0, as well the chainring so I need a tool to remove the lockring. As well, for the crankarms, do I need a crank puller or it just comes out with a 8 mm Hex ?
 
Yes, there is no bed on the 0.2" spacer but you can stack them, put the 0.2 first and then the 0.1 facing the bearing housing assy.
You can use the 0.1" with any of the other spacers, according to this chart:
Today tried the 0.5 and I’m happy,was keeping blowing the o ring of the shock shaft with 0.2 and decided to give a bigger jump
 
So this tool for sure is good ? I'm replacing my transmision tomorrow with X0, as well the chainring so I need a tool to remove the lockring. As well, for the crankarms, do I need a crank puller or it just comes out with a 8 mm Hex ?
I've already used two times, perfect and as I said you can use it with a torque wrench with a 1/2" adaptor.
You need a ISIS crank puller as well, after you unscrewed the 8mm hex bolt on crank.
 
I've already used two times, perfect and as I said you can use it with a torque wrench with a 1/2" adaptor.
You need a ISIS crank puller as well, after you unscrewed the 8mm hex bolt on crank.

or you can buy this one which already has 1/2 standard socket .
SuperB TB-1069

edit: my bad didn't saw your comment.
 
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Have anyone replaced the headset with a conventional one, I mean without the internal spacer for internal cable routing
 
Felt like a good fit but only did a bit on the road not many reviews on this one, ill just have to find out my self.
 
I've got one of these and absolutely love riding it—no complaints so far.

That said, I did notice the rear suspension linkage bolt on the drive side started to work its way out and was pressing against the chain guide. Luckily, it didn’t come all the way loose. I took it to my local bike shop, and they applied Loctite to that bolt and a few others. Since then, I’ve put about 150 miles on it and everything’s held firm. It’s a good idea to check bolts periodically on any bike, but I figured it was worth mentioning.
Interestingly, I later ran into another rider with the same bike who said it’s a known issue. He even carries a cut-down Allen key to tighten it on the go, though he knew Loctite could fix it.
 
He even carries a cut-down Allen key to tighten it on the go, though he knew Loctite could fix i
I carry one as well, fortunately it happened only once more time during one of my tours, after than I put a good amount of blue threadlocker and it's still holding.
It's also useful to mark bolt with white marker on the inner side of the frame, so you can see easily if it's unscrewing.
1000060969.jpg
 
It's a know issue by Mondraker. Most frames replaced under warranty. On mine the paint cracked badly around the interior on both sides. But the ideea is, threadlocker is your friend on all bolts on this bike.
 
Yes my lbs shop did mention that it had happened to one of the bikes he sold so put some locktite on it, but besides that i am absolutely loving the bike can't fault it trying to get out 3 times a week on the local trails.
 
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