Should I drop my motor to fix a rattle?

[mgray0724]

I would love some advice. I have a 2025 H20 and had my LBS install a new One Up v3 dropper post and a Wolf tooth dropper lever. Everything fits and works perfectly. However, when I have weight on the saddle and pedal or move around at all, I get a rattle/click sound. It sounds like a cable is knocking against something internally. No sound with weight off of the saddle. I have been back to the shop multiple times and they have said "It should be fixed now" and it never is. I think they are too lazy to drop the motor, follow the cable and actually diagnose the issue. I would like to take a crack at fixing it myself. Are there any good guides/videos on following the cable from the lever to the dropper?

 

[Chiefworm]

I would love some advice. I have a 2025 H20 and had my LBS install a new One Up v3 dropper post and a Wolf tooth dropper lever. Everything fits and works perfectly. However, when I have weight on the saddle and pedal or move around at all, I get a rattle/click sound. It sounds like a cable is knocking against something internally. No sound with weight off of the saddle. I have been back to the shop multiple times and they have said "It should be fixed now" and it never is. I think they are too lazy to drop the motor, follow the cable and actually diagnose the issue. I would like to take a crack at fixing it myself. Are there any good guides/videos on following the cable from the lever to the dropper?

Is this an M20 Wild? I had the exact same thing. Mine was a harder outer cable fitted to the dropper, jag wire I think. Swapped it for a Shimano outer and the noise went away! However I do still get clicking/cracking from the internal headset routing on heavy downhill runs. Mine was also related to my saddle rails/saddle base creaking.

 

[mgray0724]

Is this an M20 Wild? I had the exact same thing. Mine was a harder outer cable fitted to the dropper, jag wire I think. Swapped it for a Shimano outer and the noise went away! However I do still get clicking/cracking from the internal headset routing on heavy downhill runs. Mine was also related to my saddle rails/saddle base creaking.

It's the H20 (alloy frame) but that sounds like it might be the same problem. When you swapped the cables did you just wing it or did you have some kind of guide/video to help. I need to drop the motor to get to the bottom of the dropper post right?

 

[RustyMTB]

Taking the motor out isn't difficult with the right tools & methodical working but it may be a sledgehammer to crack a nut. If possible, it would be a good idea to swap the dropper post for a different one to rule out the post itself. Logically, sitting on the bike should not cause the post to move & by implication, apply any force to the actuator cable since it's clamped to the seat tube with sufficient torque to prevent it moving.

I know from experience that dropper posts can be a source of unwanted noise & if it were me I would start from there. If you're determined to take the motor out, here's a video of someone doing it - Not your exact bike but the process won't differ much.

 

[Paulquattro]

I thought Wilds were Bosch ?

 

[RustyMTB]

Not your exact bike but the process won't differ much.

 

[mgray0724]

Taking the motor out isn't difficult with the right tools & methodical working but it may be a sledgehammer to crack a nut. If possible, it would be a good idea to swap the dropper post for a different one to rule out the post itself. Logically, sitting on the bike should not cause the post to move & by implication, apply any force to the actuator cable since it's clamped to the seat tube with sufficient torque to prevent it moving.

I know from experience that dropper posts can be a source of unwanted noise & if it were me I would start from there. If you're determined to take the motor out, here's a video of someone doing it - Not your exact bike but the process won't differ much.

My Wild which does have a Bosch motor. This video is for a Rise which uses the Shimano. Also, I would LOVE to change my dropper out without dropping the motor but because of the way the cables are routed I have to pull the battery at least and have been led to believe that the motor needs to be dropped as well. It is a new dropper and there is no unwanted movement at all. Everything is actually functioning properly but when it gets weight and I move around (like pedal) it's making something rattle. I feel confident in my ability but having never done it before I was looking for some guidance. Thanks.

 

[RustyMTB]

Guidance on the issue is what you have received!

I think your bike has headset cable routing? What I would try at the very least is to undo the dropper lever clamp then undo the seatpost clamp & see whether you can pull the post up, bringing the cable with it until it's a couple of inches above the top of the seat tube. That way you can unhook the cable & either swap the post for a different one or put your post into another bike & see if the noise is still present.

The cable will run in some kind of retaining channel along the ceiling of the downtube, pass above the motor & run up the seat tube. It is unlikely to be hindered & is much easier than removing the motor altogether. Bosch motors are a matter of undoing the plastic covers, six Torx+ bolts, three wired connections & any skid plate that may be on the bike. You don't need to remove the cranks if the purpose is merely to acess frame cabling. Pitfalls are people use the wrong torx bits & round off the bolts & break the electrical connectors to the motor. Start with the post, it's far more likely to be the problem than the cable & beware becoming fixated on an idea, it pays to keep an open mind with bike problems, they often aren't what you think they are.

 

[mgray0724]

Guidance on the issue is what you have received!

I think your bike has headset cable routing? What I would try at the very least is to undo the dropper lever clamp then undo the seatpost clamp & see whether you can pull the post up, bringing the cable with it until it's a couple of inches above the top of the seat tube. That way you can unhook the cable & either swap the post for a different one or put your post into another bike & see if the noise is still present.

The cable will run in some kind of retaining channel along the ceiling of the downtube, pass above the motor & run up the seat tube. It is unlikely to be hindered & is much easier than removing the motor altogether. Bosch motors are a matter of undoing the plastic covers, six Torx+ bolts, three wired connections & any skid plate that may be on the bike. You don't need to remove the cranks if the purpose is merely to acess frame cabling. Pitfalls are people use the wrong torx bits & round off the bolts & break the electrical connectors to the motor. Start with the post, it's far more likely to be the problem than the cable & beware becoming fixated on an idea, it pays to keep an open mind with bike problems, they often aren't what you think they are.

I didn't mean to come off as snarky. I certainly do appreciate your time and knowledge. I don't think I have been clear enough with my original post. I did remove the dropper lever from the bar, loosened the clamp and when I pull on the dropper it only moves about 3-4 inches before stopping. The cable does not move at all from the lever side when pulling on the dropper. So something is hindering the cable from moving and I can't get to the bottom end of the dropper post. You've convinced me that dropping the motor is relatively easy with the right bits and some caution. Thank you.

 

[RustyMTB]

when I pull on the dropper it only moves about 3-4 inches before stopping. The cable does not move at all from the lever side when pulling on the dropper

This is interesting. Ideally, the cable should not have any slack in it inside the frame. You obviously need some from the headest to the lever in order to be able to turn the bars but internally, it should be more or less taut. You said the bike shop fitted a new dropper for you, my guess is they've either reused the existing cable without shortening it, failed to pull it through to the outside at the lever end sufficintly or fitted a new one without cutting it to the correct length.

It may be you need to get the motor out to access it but I now think the answer is your cable is excessively long & likely rattling in the down tube. One thing you could try is to remove the battery if that's an option & see if the cable is visually loose in the down tube & whether you can pull it tight from the outside where it emerges from the frame while helping it along the downtube.

 

[mgray0724]

This is interesting. Ideally, the cable should not have any slack in it inside the frame. You obviously need some from the headest to the lever in order to be able to turn the bars but internally, it should be more or less taut. You said the bike shop fitted a new dropper for you, my guess is they've either reused the existing cable without shortening it, failed to pull it through to the outside at the lever end sufficintly or fitted a new one without cutting it to the correct length.

It may be you need to get the motor out to access it but I now think the answer is your cable is excessively long & likely rattling in the down tube. One thing you could try is to remove the battery if that's an option & see if the cable is visually loose in the down tube & whether you can pull it tight from the outside where it emerges from the frame while helping it along the downtube.

This sounds exactly like what's happening! This will be my strategy. Thank you so much.

 

[edruid]

I went to a wireless dropper to avoid all this. The fact my bike is carbon was a factor also - I just try to avoid messing with high-torgue bolts like the motor bolts