YES!, but the web site say "M510 Motor"
Vitus E-Mythique LT won't power on.
- Thread starter RonanGee
- Start date
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
They sent mine with the M560.
Contact them. And I'm sure they can generate a custom order for motor, battery, charger etc
Dado
E*POWAH Master
- Jun 28, 2022
- 1,032
- 658
Hello Neeko
It really works with 36V battery. Interesting.
Means it will be like 950W peak electrical, and same power as new Bosch. Which is not bad.
People can upgrade from 36V M500 or M510 systems to M560. If DYI battery then BMS simulation of course.
Dont you know some news from Bafang? Is there some new revision of M560?
You can ask them if they planning planetary gearing in M560.
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I'm not at liberty to discuss upcoming products from Bafang at this time.Hello Neeko
It really works with 36V battery. Interesting.
Means it will be like 950W peak electrical, and same power as new Bosch. Which is not bad.
People can upgrade from 36V M500 or M510 systems to M560. If DYI battery then BMS simulation of course.
Dont you know some news from Bafang? Is there some new revision of M560?
You can ask them if they planning planetary gearing in M560.
Of course, I'll gladly share any news and materials which Bafang provides me
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
Would it be more beneficial to swap a M560 in this bike or a M600? The bike rides great but really underpowered. I'm still not sure if its a firmware issue for if all M510 bikes are like this.
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- Thread starter
- #247
And then there were 4. Original was stamped V1.3 and lasted the longest, about 6 months. First replacement was stamped V1.2 and latest a few months. Second replacement was stamped V1.1 and lasted one spin! And now the third replacement is marked V1.3. They were all about €38 on AliExpress except the V1.1 that lasted one spin, that was €10.
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
Well after 1200 miles it finally happened to me.
Went into the garage the other day and the bike was on with a code 36 on the screen. No one here turned it on. I was not able to turn it off with the button. I had to remove the battery to get it to shut off. I then reinstalled the battery and it would not turn on. I installed 2 different known good controllers and 2 different known good displays and it did nothing.
I pulled the motor out and apart. I found this on the PCB. No signs of water anywhere else.
Another thing that happened last ride was the motor became usually stiff to pedal backward. After pulling the motor out of the bike, it was very tough to turn the chainring spider by hand. After removing the spider I could not turn the spindle by hand. After pulling the motor apart, it contunied to be hard to turn untill I removed the torque sensor. Then it turned like normal.
When removing the torque sensor there is a c-clip;
Under that c-clip there's a fiber washer;
If I remove the fiber washer and reinstall the torque sensor it turns like normal. Its almost like the washer adds too much pressure on the sensor causing a bind. I'm at a loss.
Went into the garage the other day and the bike was on with a code 36 on the screen. No one here turned it on. I was not able to turn it off with the button. I had to remove the battery to get it to shut off. I then reinstalled the battery and it would not turn on. I installed 2 different known good controllers and 2 different known good displays and it did nothing.
I pulled the motor out and apart. I found this on the PCB. No signs of water anywhere else.
Another thing that happened last ride was the motor became usually stiff to pedal backward. After pulling the motor out of the bike, it was very tough to turn the chainring spider by hand. After removing the spider I could not turn the spindle by hand. After pulling the motor apart, it contunied to be hard to turn untill I removed the torque sensor. Then it turned like normal.
When removing the torque sensor there is a c-clip;
Under that c-clip there's a fiber washer;
If I remove the fiber washer and reinstall the torque sensor it turns like normal. Its almost like the washer adds too much pressure on the sensor causing a bind. I'm at a loss.
CornwallSteve
New Member
Is that rust on circlip and washer? Rust will increase the distance between the 2 and cause the fibre washer to bind is what I was thinking. Is water getting by pass the seal, how does the bearing sound?
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CarolinaCrawler
Active member
No rust anywhere to be found in the motor. The only thing on the circlip and washer is the grease that's found in the motor. I found no traces of water anywhere. The first thing I did was check the bearings in the motor, I was secretly hoping that was the problem because its an easy fix. They all turn easy and smooth. The spindle turns smooth with the washer missing. As soon as I install it tightens back up.
CornwallSteve
New Member
Bum…I should have known it wouldn’t be that simple.
CornwallSteve
New Member
I take it you have the error codes and Vitus, bafang manuals. They’re still available on the Vitus website.
I have read some posts where updating with the app has caused issues in the past. I have not managed to pair mine with the app yet.(2yrs) so no updates.
sorry not really much help to you. Have you tried getting hold of Vitus or Bafang? It appears they are currently trading again.
I have read some posts where updating with the app has caused issues in the past. I have not managed to pair mine with the app yet.(2yrs) so no updates.
sorry not really much help to you. Have you tried getting hold of Vitus or Bafang? It appears they are currently trading again.
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
I went through this when my battery died. Vitus is no help at all, not even a single reply. Bafang only wants to deal with the vendor that sold the bike and they are no longer in buisness. I am on my own with this.
I ordered a PCB and will install that to see if it works again. I MAY install the torque sensor with no fiber washer just to see if it works or I might just put it together the way it was and see if it wears in. Not sure.
CornwallSteve
New Member
Maybe give these guys a ring, I’ve heard they are very knowledgeable.
The eBike Motor Centre
Unit 1, The Glenmore Centre, Sandleheath Industrial Estate,Old Brickyard Road, Fordingbridge, Hampshire. SP6 1TE
Telephone: +44 (0)1425 656656
email: [email protected]
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
I received the PCB and swapped it in. Took it for a 12 mile ride and everything seems to be good. The tightness problem did not exist when it was put back together. I'm still unsure about that. I'm gonna continue to ride it and see how it does.
Hech
Member
Hi, just thought I'd report another Mythique episode, it will not switch on at the display.
I replaced the display unit and switch to no avail. I get 40v at the motor and 30v at the purple connection on the handlebar display but no response from a bike not 500miles run!
I wonder if I should send the motor to
hechhog
I replaced the display unit and switch to no avail. I get 40v at the motor and 30v at the purple connection on the handlebar display but no response from a bike not 500miles run!
I wonder if I should send the motor to
The eBike Motor Centre
in Hampshire?hechhog
- Thread starter
- #257
Failure time again. On this breakdown I noticed that all the failed boards have corrosion on the same pins. "vcc" and "sl" as far as I can tell. The vcc pin is called "key" on some of the boards.
Has anyone any tips on how to protect these pins for the next rebuild? I'll be fitting a new gasket of course but should I smother the pins on dialectic grease? Is it safe for the grease to bridge across multiple pins or will the grease be conductive and cause shorts?
- Thread starter
- #258
Gemini AI info:
The Bafang M510 (also known as the MM G522.250.C) is widely praised for its performance, but it has a known "Achilles' heel" regarding its internal wiring and moisture management.
Your experience with the failing power/sensor board is a documented issue in the e-bike community. Here is what is happening with the M510 specifically:
1. The "Connector PCB" Failure
The small board you are replacing is often referred to as the connector PCB or distribution board. Users on forums (like EMTB Forums and Endless Sphere) have identified two specific manufacturing/design flaws with this part in the M510:
Cold/Dry Solder Joints: Many M510 units left the factory with "dry" solder joints on that specific board. Over time, the vibration of the motor causes these joints to crack. This increases resistance, which generates heat and eventually causes the motor to stop communicating with the display or battery.
Localized Corrosion (The 5V/GND Short): Because the 5V power and Ground pins are placed directly next to each other on that board, they are the first to fail if even a microscopic amount of moisture enters the casing. The 5V line "leaks" into the Ground line, causing the green/white corrosion you see.
2. Moisture Trapping (The "Teaspoon" Problem)
While the M510 is rated IP65, many riders have found "teaspoons of water" or significant condensation inside the motor housing.
The Bottom-Mount Issue: In many frame designs, the M510 is oriented such that the connector board sits at the lowest point of the motor. Any water that enters (via the cable seals or condensation) pools exactly where that board is located.
Wicking: Water often travels down the wiring harness from the handlebars or battery and is "wicked" through the cable insulation directly into the connector pins.
3. "Not Turning On" Symptoms
If that board is corroded or has a bad solder joint, it will cause the following M510-specific issues:
System "Blackout": The display won't even light up because the power-on signal from the battery passes through that board.
Error 30: This is the most common Bafang error, signifying a communication failure. If that board is "fuzzy" with corrosion, the data signal can't get through.
The "Keypad Voltage" Glitch: Some M510 users report that a failing connector board alters the voltage levels of the remote keypad, making the power button unresponsive even if the battery is full.
Pro-Tip for the Next Replacement
Since this is your third or fourth board, the issue is environmental rather than a "bad batch" of parts. When you install the next one, try these "Bafang Community" fixes:
Solder Reflow: Before installing the new board, use a soldering iron to briefly "reflow" the main pin joints to ensure they aren't dry or brittle.
Corrosion Block/ACF-50: Instead of just cleaning it, treat the board with ACF-50 or a Conformal Coating spray. This leaves a thin, non-conductive film that prevents the chemical reaction even if moisture gets in.
Dielectric Grease Pack: Pack the white plastic connector entirely with dielectric grease before plugging it in. This is the single best way to stop the "wicking" of water into the pins.
Drain Hole (Controversial): Some advanced users drill a tiny 2mm weep hole at the absolute lowest point of the motor casing to allow condensation to escape, though this technically voids your warranty.
Do you have a multimeter? I can tell you how to check if your current board is actually "dead" or just has a bridged connection that can be cleaned.
The Bafang M510 (also known as the MM G522.250.C) is widely praised for its performance, but it has a known "Achilles' heel" regarding its internal wiring and moisture management.
Your experience with the failing power/sensor board is a documented issue in the e-bike community. Here is what is happening with the M510 specifically:
1. The "Connector PCB" Failure
The small board you are replacing is often referred to as the connector PCB or distribution board. Users on forums (like EMTB Forums and Endless Sphere) have identified two specific manufacturing/design flaws with this part in the M510:
Cold/Dry Solder Joints: Many M510 units left the factory with "dry" solder joints on that specific board. Over time, the vibration of the motor causes these joints to crack. This increases resistance, which generates heat and eventually causes the motor to stop communicating with the display or battery.
Localized Corrosion (The 5V/GND Short): Because the 5V power and Ground pins are placed directly next to each other on that board, they are the first to fail if even a microscopic amount of moisture enters the casing. The 5V line "leaks" into the Ground line, causing the green/white corrosion you see.
2. Moisture Trapping (The "Teaspoon" Problem)
While the M510 is rated IP65, many riders have found "teaspoons of water" or significant condensation inside the motor housing.
The Bottom-Mount Issue: In many frame designs, the M510 is oriented such that the connector board sits at the lowest point of the motor. Any water that enters (via the cable seals or condensation) pools exactly where that board is located.
Wicking: Water often travels down the wiring harness from the handlebars or battery and is "wicked" through the cable insulation directly into the connector pins.
3. "Not Turning On" Symptoms
If that board is corroded or has a bad solder joint, it will cause the following M510-specific issues:
System "Blackout": The display won't even light up because the power-on signal from the battery passes through that board.
Error 30: This is the most common Bafang error, signifying a communication failure. If that board is "fuzzy" with corrosion, the data signal can't get through.
The "Keypad Voltage" Glitch: Some M510 users report that a failing connector board alters the voltage levels of the remote keypad, making the power button unresponsive even if the battery is full.
Pro-Tip for the Next Replacement
Since this is your third or fourth board, the issue is environmental rather than a "bad batch" of parts. When you install the next one, try these "Bafang Community" fixes:
Solder Reflow: Before installing the new board, use a soldering iron to briefly "reflow" the main pin joints to ensure they aren't dry or brittle.
Corrosion Block/ACF-50: Instead of just cleaning it, treat the board with ACF-50 or a Conformal Coating spray. This leaves a thin, non-conductive film that prevents the chemical reaction even if moisture gets in.
Dielectric Grease Pack: Pack the white plastic connector entirely with dielectric grease before plugging it in. This is the single best way to stop the "wicking" of water into the pins.
Drain Hole (Controversial): Some advanced users drill a tiny 2mm weep hole at the absolute lowest point of the motor casing to allow condensation to escape, though this technically voids your warranty.
Do you have a multimeter? I can tell you how to check if your current board is actually "dead" or just has a bridged connection that can be cleaned.
imdons
New Member
- May 27, 2026
- 1
- 0
Hey, I opened my M510 motor and all cables, boards, and connections look good. I have a new battery installed. It turns on, but I have an E30 error with a blinking battery icon. Then the display turns off at around 1min. I disconnected all cables and tried a new display and the same error come on. Any advice?
Mine would not turn on again after trying a replacement controller. It is currently at a motor repair place but they say there having trouble getting response or parts from Bafang. The motor has been with them for about 6 weeks now.
Dado
E*POWAH Master
- Jun 28, 2022
- 1,032
- 658
Then try to swap that small PCB board with connectors. It is cheap. Also here can be that turn on/off issue.
