Hello! Wanting to start E MTBing! Need some advice!

[Cybersnow]

I live in a small town in South West Idaho and have a class 2 hardtail E-bike. While is is ok for riding on normal and dirt roads, it isn’t powerful or comfortable enough to ride any single track. While at almost 79 I don’t plan on riding black diamond tracks, I would like full suspension and plenty of power to climb some rather steep (+14 degrees) hills. Also need it to be relatively light (<55lbs if possible). A throttle would help getting started uphill from a stop but a lower top bar is acceptable instead of a throttle. Price wise $5,000 is my top limit.

 

[Stihldog]

I’m personally not a fan of throttle or hub-drive EMTB’s However, I recently sold my Trek power fly HT for a lighter Fuel EXE, TQ motor.

My 85nm Trek Rail is very capable of ascending up a 15% fireroad,(or steeper) but use the Fuel EXE also.
I’m not a Trek fan-boi btw.…the local Bike Shop is 8 minutes away.
Type of tire is my only concern now.

 

[Cybersnow]

I guess I don’t understand the relationship between motor power, torque, cadence and gearing when climbing longer steep hills. I did understand the relationship between gearing, climbing, power expended and speed on my regular bike.

 

[Stihldog]

Regardless of the steepness, during a climb, I still try to maintain +\- 80 cadence (or crank rpm). If the mode or gearing ratio changes …I still try to maintain 80 cadence.

For me, and my emtb, that seems to be the happy spot. A full powered emtb is capable of quickly wearing out a cassette, chain, chainring, and even motor components, if a low cadence is used often.

As I rode behind my wife on her Full powered emtb, I noticed that her cadence was low (40-60?). I needed to explain the importance of trying to maintain a good cadence.

 

[Dave238]

..... A throttle would help getting started uphill from a stop but a lower top bar is acceptable instead of a throttle. .....

I'm not understanding the connection between throttle and "top bar" (I assume is top tube?) ?
Also this single track you'd ride is it shared with dirt bikes, thus the reason you're not focusing on Class 1 only?

 

[Cybersnow]

Regardless of the steepness, during a climb, I still try to maintain +\- 80 cadence (or crank rpm). If the mode or gearing ratio changes …I still try to maintain 80 cadence.

For me, and my emtb, that seems to be the happy spot. A full powered emtb is capable of quickly wearing out a cassette, chain, chainring, and even motor components, if a low cadence is used often.

As I rode behind my wife on her Full powered emtb, I noticed that her cadence was low (40-60?). I needed to explain the importance of trying to maintain a good cadence.

My comfortable cadence is around 70-75. It is funny that my wife’s is around 60 and she tends to be in a higher gear.

 

[Cybersnow]

I'm not understanding the connection between throttle and "top bar" (I assume is top tube?) ?
Also this single track you'd ride is it shared with dirt bikes, thus the reason you're not focusing on Class 1 only?

You are right, it is the top tube. The throttle is not a mandatory requirement as a lower top tube allows me to get the bike started again. What I am finding is that the type 2 bikes are much heavier.

 

[Paulquattro]

Welcome to the site , Hope you find what your looking for

 

[Dave238]

You are right, it is the top tube. The throttle is not a mandatory requirement as a lower top tube allows me to get the bike started again. What I am finding is that the type 2 bikes are much heavier.

I still don't see the connection between top tube and getting started. You are seated with the dropper down when you start aren't you and simultaneously lift off seat and raise seat as you pedal start aren't you (in which case not sure what top tube relation is)? Or are you straddling the top tube and then jump on the pedals?

 

[NMNomad]

Another nod towards the Trek Rail. I am very pleased with the one I have. It gets me around the New Mexico mountains with relative ease.

 

[irie]

....
As I rode behind my wife on her Full powered emtb, I noticed that her cadence was low (40-60?). I needed to explain the importance of trying to maintain a good cadence.

Have explained exactly this to my wife but her cadence remains low (40-60?). She gets through chains twice as quick as me on her Rail but hey, her money

 

[Cybersnow]

I still don't see the connection between top tube and getting started. You are seated with the dropper down when you start aren't you and simultaneously lift off seat and raise seat as you pedal start aren't you (in which case not sure what top tube relation is)? Or are you straddling the top tube and then jump on the pedals?

The real issue for me is the stand over height. While I am 5’9” tall, my inseam is only 31”. It is hard to get started when the top tube is in your crotch. With a lower top tube it is so much easier to do what you suggest.

 

[Stihldog]

I’m trying to wrap my head around around your issue which may be the unique geometry of you and your bike.

I’m also 5’9” with a 32”-33” inseam. My wingspan is ridiculous for my height. (Imagine a cross between a gorilla and a giraffe). I could easily fit and ride a large sized Trek Rail based on the geometry of my limbs. But a medium sized Rail just made sense. …however, a 150mm dropper was not suitable for my geometry and the way I must start. I’m able to straddle the seat, place one foot on the peddle and the other foot touching the ground (for initial balance). I’ve had to adapt to this method b/c I cannot swing my leg over the seat while the bike is in motion …I’ve tried. My balance issue won’t allow me. So I start in a position that is comfortable and safe for me. Once I get rolling, and settled, everything becomes normal again.

I’ve changed from a 150mm dropper to a 170mm dropper on both the medium Rail and Fuel. My son, who is similar height but shorter legs can easily ride my wife’s small sized Trek. But I installed the 150mm dropper on her bike.

Geometry changes were necessary on my bikes until I felt comfortable. A small or large size was not in the cards for me. Medium sized with a larger dropper. (Oh…and magnetic pedals).

 

[johnnystorm]

Good luck finding your new bike. I dont know if I can help much but the Specialized App (and others I'm sure) allow you to tweak the power settings, but also have the ability to adjust a "shuttle" mode and "responsiveness". More "shuttle" releases more power at lower cadence and more "responsiveness" cuts the lag between weighting the pedals and the power kicking in. Both things that might be useful if you're concerned about getting started from standstill.

 

[Geezer]

I'm about the same age and height as you. I ride a lot of single track trails in Texas and Arkansas, pretty much all of them including an occasional Black Diamond. For me a Trek Rail was a perfect choice.
It is a class 1 with a Bosch Performance CX full power motor. The top tube height and dropper seat post allow me full movement for whatever situation the trail presents. The motor has plenty of power for steep climbs and is easily switched between power modes with the thumb.