DIY battery dengfu E82

artyyartyy

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hi everybody, i'd like to share my experience with DIY battery for dengfu E82. i bought original battery box with some battery holder and connectors, i also bought BMS that i found to be fitted for the battery box (somewhere on the internet). I had no idea how original 18650 cells were aligned in the battery so i did it by myself. I will post other comments and photos if anyone is interested in building DIY battery. Please tell me..

bms jbd.png
 
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hi everybody, i'd like to share my experience with DIY battery for dengfu E82. i bought original battery box with some battery holder and connectors, i also bought BMS that i found to be fitted for the battery box (somewhere on the internet). I had no idea how original 18650 cells were aligned in the battery so i did it by myself. I will post other comments and photos if anyone is interested in building DIY battery. Please tell me..

View attachment 159144
Please post comments and photos! The battery building is the most interesting part of the build.
 
on this picture and photo I have depicted how battery is organised: there are five serial groups 6p on "the bottom" of battery, six serial groups 6p on "the top" of battery, 2 serial groups 6p on "the side" of battery (look at the pic they are composed of 3x2p wired to make 6p2s) i think scheme and photo are self explanatory. altogether it's 13s6p. other details later..

schemat baterii.jpg welding.jpg
 
Looks like a complicated configuration, a lot of current going through a single nickel strip. What motor do you have? With the M560 the current is quite high. It would be interesting to see how the dengfu battery is configurated.
 
it is 0.3x8mm nickel strip - optimal 10A max 15A poor 20A, the motor is bafang M560 750W so max current is about 15A that is my calculation, although I considered double strips. What do you think?
 
it is 0.3x8mm nickel strip - optimal 10A max 15A poor 20A, the motor is bafang M560 750W so max current is about 15A that is my calculation, although I considered double strips. What do you think?
M560 has to my knowledge over 1000W peak power. That is at least temporarily over 20A. I would put more then one, but I have been over careful on everything concerning batteries. Still you can only benefit from adding one.
 
some more photos , unfortunately i ran out of nickel strip, just bought anther one but have to wait..

4efd983c-d8d1-4ce7-a516-5f8861e2890d~1.jpg 19fcc852-6829-4a56-bf68-14f05b0d5328~1.jpg ff6b2904-8ef2-475b-bb9f-1ed56de93d7c~1.jpg
 
You may know already if the nickel strips are steel plate coated with nickel, or pure nickel. THe former have more resistance and lead to more heat build up and have less ampacity. A pure nickel strip can withstand is about 1.5 times that of nickel plated steel. Therefore, when the current is the same, pure nickel generates less heat.
You can test your nickel strips by scratching an area of a small sample, and soaking it overnight in a bit of 10% salt water. When I tested all mine, I found I had one roll that was plated. If the scratched area shows rust, it is nickel plated. (You can use other methods to test such as grinding it with a dremel and if sparks, there is steel in it, or you can measure the resistance of a 10cm strip with a multimeter.)
I see you pre-soldered tabs for the sense leads, and used gaskets for the positive terminals to prevent shorts, good job on that. I did my last pack with single strips like yours, then I ordered a double oblique strip to make the next one easier.

User reviews of the XiaoZiangElectric app have not been too favorable (1.6 on the Apple Store). The 30A model is $20.00 on Ali Express. Perhaps give a JK BMS a try next time.
 
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You may know already if the nickel strips are steel plate coated with nickel, or pure nickel. THe former have more resistance and lead to more heat build up and have less ampacity. A pure nickel strip can withstand is about 1.5 times that of nickel plated steel. Therefore, when the current is the same, pure nickel generates less heat.
You can test your nickel strips by scratching an area of a small sample, and soaking it overnight in a bit of 10% salt water. When I tested all mine, I found I had one roll that was plated. If the scratched area shows rust, it is nickel plated. (You can use other methods to test such as grinding it with a dremel and if sparks, there is steel in it, or you can measure the resistance of a 10cm strip with a multimeter.)
I see you pre-soldered tabs for the sense leads, and used gaskets for the positive terminals to prevent shorts, good job on that. I did my last pack with single strips like yours, then I ordered a double oblique strip to make the next one easier.

User reviews of the XiaoZiangElectric app have not been too favorable (1.6 on the Apple Store). The 30A model is $20.00 on Ali Express. Perhaps give a JK BMS a try next time.
THIS. I second the testing of all strip material prior to cutting / welding
 
there are new photos of my project. (finally, I got nickel strips so could end welding)
some comments:
1st photo testing connections
2nd the way I soldered connections between 1s6p parts
3rd isolation made from fibreglass plate (it will be obvious in following posts)
4th-7th the place where plates should be mounted
8th connection of 6 cells in 1s6p alignment (not complete) that was tested on the first photo

IMG_20250526_182627595_HDR.jpg IMG_20250526_183716217_HDR.jpg IMG_20250526_212330480_HDR.jpg IMG_20250526_212440984_HDR.jpg IMG_20250526_212504906.jpg IMG_20250526_212521784.jpg IMG_20250526_212601747_HDR.jpg IMG_20250526_212723168_HDR.jpg
 
currently I am also doing test of nickel strips vs steel strips covered with nickel. started this today so I need a few days for results that I will report for you asap :)
 
Thanks for taking the time to document this, looking forward to the test results. Also will be interested to see how the BMS is mounted, your thoughts on it, and what the pack looks like when all buttoned up and mounted on the frame.
 
just a little progress - another photo: last wire for "2p parts" soldered, double black wire for B(-) BMS connection and 0 wire (that is the first from 14 wires) going to BMS (thin black wire) soldered as well...

IMG_20250527_215556443_HDR.jpg
 
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Looks like you are taking your time to be thorough. I recall first time I assembled my own battery pack, it did not take my time and although I did not connect any of the passive BMS wires wrong, I did them in the wrong sequence which I suspect resulted in my BMS not functioning.
 
today's update:
photo 1 - BMS soldering and mounting I used two 2,5 wires for B- and C port of BMS

IMG_20250529_214922071_HDR strzalki.jpg
 
remaining BMS connections is typical and rather obvious (for details you can refer to the scheme at the beginning of this post)

IMG_20250529_214856872_HDR.jpg
 
for the sake of free space, I removed alu plate from the top of BMS and replaced it with this fiberglass (see above)
 
In the photo below, there is back side of the battery (on the right there is 14, 13 BMS wire, on the left there is plus of the whole battery (dubled 2,5 red wire)

IMG_20250529_215346053_HDR.jpg
 
and the front of the battery- on the left duoble black wire C(-) BMS and 8th wire from BMS strap, on the right double red wire - battery plus, you can also see small white plug at the front of BMS it is a temperature probe

IMG_20250529_220338806_HDR opis.jpg
 
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I was asked to check iron vs nickle strip with Salt test, the result is below: left iron vs right nickle. In reality the result is better seen than on the pics. Before immersing in saline I scratched each strip with dermel to expose inner layer of the material.

IMG_20250601_093455216_HDR.jpg
 
I was asked to check iron vs nickle strip with Salt test, the result is below: left iron vs right nickle. In reality the result is better seen than on the pics. Before immersing in saline I scratched each strip with dermel to expose inner layer of the material.

View attachment 161730
Thanks for taking the time to do this, as these results are most interesting and may help a lot of others in the future with these projects.
 
I was asked to check iron vs nickle strip with Salt test, the result is below: left iron vs right nickle. In reality the result is better seen than on the pics. Before immersing in saline I scratched each strip with dermel to expose inner layer of the material.

View attachment 161730
So the "Nickel" strip did not show rust, correct? It is unclear from your photos...
 
Yes, correct the idea is that's after scratching iron is exposed to saline and simply rust appears
 
And finally lasy picture - connections of charge and discharge port and voltage check!

IMG_20250606_231945314_HDR.jpg IMG_20250606_232600903.jpg
 
Did you already discharge it? Your 13S6P Li-ion pack’s total voltage of 45.6V (3.5V per cell average) suggests potential cell imbalance. A bad weld in your 13S6P pack could indeed cause the 45.6V total voltage
 
All celles where equlized to 3,55V before battery welding (by the shop), so you are right. later I will post screen from BMS.
 
There is currently a discussion going on on a Discord channel that may be of interest. It is about the consequences of when a spot weld can damage a cell and result in bringing the battery pack down:
 
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