ETA for Gen 5 S 180

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Haha, yes!
Pretty stoaked on the bike. Weights 23.8kg ish (the scale wouldn't stay still) as it sits here. 600 battery, maxxis DD, coil, fork isn't too bad they're only 50g more than a rxf38 for example) and WAO convergence rims (they are not light lol)

20250130_202056.jpg
 
Haha, yes!
Pretty stoaked on the bike. Weights 23.8kg ish (the scale wouldn't stay still) as it sits here. 600 battery, maxxis DD, coil, fork isn't too bad they're only 50g more than a rxf38 for example) and WAO convergence rims (they are not light lol)

View attachment 153921
To my motorcycle biased eyes upside down forks really do look proper 👌
 
One thing that did surprise me on the new frame is brake cable routing is different. Coming off the same size prior version my hose was way too short. Just something to note if you aren’t installing new brakes with full length hoses they may not be long enough.
@bullit398 does it come with cable routing guides/tubes? Any isssues building it?
 
All the builds look sweet! Has anyone ordered a bike/frame for the UK? What kid of import and VAT did you pay or is it covered in the price?
 
@bullit398 does it come with cable routing guides/tubes? Any isssues building it?
It’s not fully tubed. There are tubes in the down tube for 2 cables but the pop out in the head tube and the you have to stick them through the hole yourself. A little easier with no header installed and you definitely have to do it with no fork in. On the rear triangle there are no tubes but they give you a foam tube to run it through to keep rattle down. If you pull the motor cover off you can see the tube that goes up for the dropper. Aside from that everything was simple and typical of any bike build.
 
It’s not fully tubed. There are tubes in the down tube for 2 cables but the pop out in the head tube and the you have to stick them through the hole yourself. A little easier with no header installed and you definitely have to do it with no fork in.
If you remove the Bosch controller it's much easier.
On the rear triangle there are no tubes but they give you a foam tube to run it through to keep rattle down.
Beware the derailleur side. Compared to the older frames they did a slightly worse job on the finishing. There's a very small hole for the cable to go through because they didn't clean out the carbon as well as the brake side. I was unable to insert foam insulation with the housing in place, the foam would just get caught on the carbon and shredded. I had to add the foam first then put the housing through after. Not a concern for AXS users of course :)

If you pull the motor cover off you can see the tube that goes up for the dropper.
This is another "downgrade" from the previous frames, they were fully sealed so no need to remove the motor/cover. OTOH I would probably remove the motor anyway because it makes things much easier.
 
Want to start to build my frame at the weekend. Is an pdf-Manual available? The manual delivered with the frame is meeeh.
 
Want to start to build my frame at the weekend. Is an pdf-Manual available? The manual delivered with the frame is meeeh.
There's no PDF but it's the second easiest frame I've ever built (with the 2024 model being the easiest :) ). Also make sure to reach out to Crestline if you have any issues, they are very responsive and helpful.
 
Guess you never built an Ibis, didn‘t you? 😬

I already started tonight and all cables are already in. Will show a picture soon, will be a sweet and light build for a 180/180mm rig.

Is there any information about the OneUp chain protector? how to mount it? (never done it before).
 
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anyone know the dropper insertion for a RH-2? Can you slam oneup 150? AXS reverb 150? Honestly the way my oneup 180 is sitting at, its closer to 215mm insertion which doesnt sound right.
 
anyone know the dropper insertion for a RH-2? Can you slam oneup 150? AXS reverb 150? Honestly the way my oneup 180 is sitting at, its closer to 215mm insertion which doesnt sound right.
Below was Troydon's answers when i asked the same question.

1744235252050.png
 
Below was Troydon's answers when i asked the same question.

View attachment 158090
thank you that helps a lot. That really confirms my findings. The only thing that doesn't make sense is how my buddy is almost able to slam an axs reverb 170 which has an insertion of 245mm including the vent valve.

Correction: axs reverb 150
 
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thank you that helps a lot. That really confirms my findings. The only thing that doesn't make sense is how my buddy is almost able to slam an axs reverb 170 which has an insertion of 245mm including the vent valve.
Probably because there isn't a cable getting in the way of something. Troydon does state that a 175 axs can almost be slammed fully.

Luckily for me the 220mm insertion 180mm oneup dropper gets me to my perfect seat height. Though i would prefer a 210 dropper and more insertion depth.
 
Hey guys - wondering if anyone has messed around with long versus short travel setting much? I've tried both with a coil shock... with a 170 fork up front. As expected, the long travel felt quite unbalanced with a 170 fork IMO. So I think I either need to go 180 up front, or run short travel with the 170 fork.

Wondering if everyone is running theirs in LT mode with a 180 fork, or if anyone has found success with short travel mode and a 170 fork?

My concern with 180/180 mode is it might be a little too much travel for our usual front range stuff... but curious to hear about your setups.

For reference i'm on a size 3 in mullet config. Running a 38 grip 2 at 170mm and a SDU ultimate coil out back (~425 spring in long), flipping between ST/LT modes.
 
Hey guys - wondering if anyone has messed around with long versus short travel setting much? I've tried both with a coil shock... with a 170 fork up front. As expected, the long travel felt quite unbalanced with a 170 fork IMO. So I think I either need to go 180 up front, or run short travel with the 170 fork.

Wondering if everyone is running theirs in LT mode with a 180 fork, or if anyone has found success with short travel mode and a 170 fork?

My concern with 180/180 mode is it might be a little too much travel for our usual front range stuff... but curious to hear about your setups.

For reference i'm on a size 3 in mullet config. Running a 38 grip 2 at 170mm and a SDU ultimate coil out back (~425 spring in long), flipping between ST/LT modes.
The S180 on crestline's website is 180mm of front and rear > so I am not sure why you would go 170mm front BUT:
If you want that 180mm rear, you can potentially add a +5mm headset cup which will increase your reach (changing ur balance point) + add ~12mm axle to crown length (effectively having a 180mm axle to crown fork).
 
Hey guys - wondering if anyone has messed around with long versus short travel setting much? I've tried both with a coil shock... with a 170 fork up front. As expected, the long travel felt quite unbalanced with a 170 fork IMO. So I think I either need to go 180 up front, or run short travel with the 170 fork.

Wondering if everyone is running theirs in LT mode with a 180 fork, or if anyone has found success with short travel mode and a 170 fork?

My concern with 180/180 mode is it might be a little too much travel for our usual front range stuff... but curious to hear about your setups.

For reference i'm on a size 3 in mullet config. Running a 38 grip 2 at 170mm and a SDU ultimate coil out back (~425 spring in long), flipping between ST/LT modes.
Look at post 71 I'm running a 170mm fork in the ST. Why? I wanted the slightly shorter wheelbase and I'm a light rider (155lbs geared). 160mm of rear travel is enough for me. The Push nine.one fork also maxes out at 170mm. I ran this set up with my dread v2 and loved it.
 
Look at post 71 I'm running a 170mm fork in the ST. Why? I wanted the slightly shorter wheelbase and I'm a light rider (155lbs geared). 160mm of rear travel is enough for me. The Push nine.one fork also maxes out at 170mm. I ran this set up with my dread v2 and loved it.
Yeah I’m leaning towards this direction too. What spring rate are you running?
 
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