How long does your chain last?

[Tepi]

Jos saat ne halvalla, osta 3x XT-ketjuja ja kunnollista voiteluainetta. Vaihda ketju joka ajon aikana puhtaaseen, juuri voideltuun. Puhdista sitten se, jonka olet ottanut pois.

Kuulostaa hullulta, mutta se tekee kaikesta kestävän pitkään.

Kasetit kuolevat, koska ketju kuluu ja tappaa ne.

Ketjujen pyörittäminen tarkoittaa, että ne kaikki kuluvat samalla nopeudella, joten ne eivät hyppää kuin uusi ketju kuluneessa kasetissa.

Näin olen käyttänyt voimansiirtoa .Lisäksi ketjut kuuma vahataan.Ketju ei kerää likaa polkuajossa.Ketjut kiertää noin 400 km,ja vaihto ,seuraavaan vahattuun.

 

[aerodiamond]

My bike is 11 speed with a shimano chain, still standard cube reaction on the rear (my first chain broke on third ride though). I'm going to try a KMC E11 to see how that goes.

Nigel

 

[CarbonMan]

I get about a year out of a chain (1500 miles).
I ride on sandy mud greensand bridleways. Seems a short life to me what does anyone els

I get about a year out of a chain (1500 miles).
I ride on sandy mud greensand bridleways. Seems a short life to me what does anyone else get?

Nigel

THe website zerofrictioncycling does a lot with lube testing and cleaning, check them out. Some very popular lubes arent that gerat and can have a big effect. Also how/often you clean it matters, and sandy terrain probably beats it up a lot. If rings and cogs are worn that speeds up stretch/wear too. But 1500 miles isnt too bad either.

 

[Just gan]

THe website zerofrictioncycling does a lot with lube testing and cleaning, check them out. Some very popular lubes arent that gerat and can have a big effect. Also how/often you clean it matters, and sandy terrain probably beats it up a lot. If rings and cogs are worn that speeds up stretch/wear too. But 1500 miles isnt too bad either.

Yes it hard to compare different people's riding conditions or styles. I do loads of uphill terrain that's got to be another factor.

 

[Kiwilad]

Shimano 12 speed 6100 Deore chain on 85nM EP6 and Deore Cassette. Cassette creaking under high load starts at about 700km. Checked with Park Tool Gauge. 0.5 goes in. 0.75 does not. So wear is somewhere between those 2 marks.

I could get more km out of the chain. But it means the cassette will wear quicker. Chain is AUD$30. Cassette is AUD$120. It's a no brainer. Just change the chain when the 0.5 wear gauge goes in. Which is 700km. Change cassette every 4-5 chains.

BTW. I am currently building a new rear wheel to fit an 11 speed Linkglide transmission. This is mostly to get additional life out of chains and cassettes. Shimano say 3 times more life. We'll see.

Hi, is the creaking on the cassette intermitten? does it disappear if you peddle backwar?

 

[Astro66]

Hi, is the creaking on the cassette intermitten? does it disappear if you peddle backwar?

Yes it's intermittent. It only creaks under high load pedal forward. Shimano Mid drive motors don't spin the chainring when you pedal backwards. So nothing happens if you pedal backwards.

If the roll the bike backwards. You could get some noise. But that is more to do with your chainline alignment.

 

[ari]

Dont know about the miles/km , but once it slips in the top gear , its change time. [at the moment it will not drive in top , so im past it,,way past it ]

 

[Bndit]

My bike is 11 speed with a shimano chain, still standard cube reaction on the rear (my first chain broke on third ride though). I'm going to try a KMC E11 to see how that goes.

Nigel

KMC chains are shit so it`s not gonna go ok

 

[theremotejuggernaut]

I've done many thousands of miles on several x11 SLs on my hardtail so that's not entirely true.

 

[Just gan]

Can anyone remember when you could buy a long length of chain and cut it to your requirements. That was back when a pound was a pound haha

 

[irie]

Can anyone remember when you could buy a long length of chain and cut it to your requirements. That was back when a pound was a pound haha

Was thinking back to that yesterday. Buy 126 link XTR chains then cut a bit off, bloody silly. Would be great if could buy chain by the metre.

 

[aerodiamond]

I think I underestimated the wear on an eMTB over analogue bikes. The rear cluster looked like it had done 10 years rather than just one.

Oh well all down to experience. I'll check monthly now just to keep an eye on things.

Nigel

 

[Just gan]

Was thinking back to that yesterday. Buy 126 link XTR chains then cut a bit off, bloody silly. Would be great if could buy chain by the metre.

You could back in the good old days late 80s. My dealer back then would have bought 10 mtrs or more at a time. Probably too much different types now but could still be done.

 

[steve_sordy]

When fitting a new chain, don't throw away the old one until you have tested the new chain/old cassette on the trails. If the new chain slips under power, the cassette is too worn to take a new chain. Put the old chain back on and run them both into the ground. You now have time to search out a good deal on a new cassette.

PS: Keep your eye on the front ring, because worn chains are like mechanical aids, they spread wear to every gear they touch.

 

[Winford]

It depends on how hard you ride, and your skill level, combined with how much climbing your doing. I dip chain in molten speed wax every 60 miles. Thats 2 rides and 8000' of climbing. But I used to wash my bike frequently. Shimano 12s drive train, 8100 chain and different hyper glide cassettes. Cheaper the better. Im averaging roughly 800-900 miles a cassette and chain. But I ride as fast as you can ride one of these. The small cogs go quick because that is where I ride most of the time. Im at 2908 miles for the year, and climbed 283,097 feet in elevation. 1 current KOM and lots of trophies on the local trails in the endurance capitol of the world. Not super fast descending, but I climb with the best

 

[Eliadn]

Changed first sram sx chain after like 2200 km, the second (gx) is going strong after 2500 km. Measured the other day, it still has some life in it.

 

[Tepi]

Kun asennat uutta ketjua, älä heitä vanhaa pois ennen kuin olet testannut uuden ketjun/vanhan kasetin poluilla. Jos uusi ketju luistaa virran alla, kasetti on liian kulunut ottamaan uutta ketjua. Laita vanha ketju takaisin päälle ja paina ne molemmat maahan. Sinulla on nyt aikaa etsiä paljon uutta kasettia.

PS: Pidä silmällä eturengasta, koska kuluneet ketjut ovat kuin mekaanisia apuvälineitä, ne levittävät kulumista jokaiseen kosketukseensa.

Steve puhuu oikein voimansiirrosta.Itse kierrätän kolmea ketjua vahattuna.Olen huomannut kaksi ketjua riittää ,saavutetaan tasainen loppuun kuluminen.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I've been running Shimano components, mostly XT level, for the last 5 years across multiple analog bikes. Current eMTB (Norco Range) runs a Shimano 12 spd drivetrain with Deore level RD, cassette and chain. I've been checking chain occasionally with a Park Tool CC-4.2. Bike only has 225 miles, 50k vert climbing and I'm 195 lbs geared up.

A recent check indicated the chain has 0.75% wear. However that wear seems to be concentrated to the Quick-Link and a few nearby links, as wear checked elsewhere on chain isn't even 0.5%, but getting close.

I also noticed the RD has developed a decent amount of play at the parallelogram pivots. I had a 12 spd XTR RD develop similar play, but that took a couple seasons on my analog bike and probably over 1000 miles. I do ride a lot of rocky and rooty terrain, so lots impacts and the RD is definitely bouncing around a lot. Usually an impact and/or getting sucked into the spokes is what kills my RDs on my longer travel bikes vs. just wear. I'm probably averaging 2-3 derailleurs a year due to damage.

 

[thongraegu]

I had kmc oem chain on my bosch bike that I drove for 1600km/1000miles before it started to show some stretching so I changed it to shimano xtr chain, so far just 500km on it but we'll see, I also changed to drip wax lube with the new chain to see if that helps.