Devinci Troy e-lite

Has anyone tried a 170mm front fork yet? My dealer only had the 170mm Zeb Ultimate in stock, they told me to test it and if I did not like the geometry change, they would swap the air shaft for a 160mm. They informed me that the 10mm travel bump in the front would not affect the frame warranty.
 
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Has anyone tried a 170mm front fork yet? My dealer only had the 170mm Zeb Ultimate in stock, they told me to test it and if I did not like the geometry change, they would swap the air shaft for a 160mm. They informed me that the 10mm travel bump in the front would not affect the frame warranty.
I havent tried the bike but you should know the zeb is 10mm more axle to crown ,if both forks are equal in travel, plus the 10mm in extra travel.
That will slacken your head and seat angle .8⁰. Your head angle will be 62.8⁰. Thats a dh bike head angle. Definitely fun on the downs. I guess it depends on how you'll be riding the bike. Seat angle will be 76.8. Still relatively steep. Your reach will shorten 4-5mm and your bb height will raise 6mm. Head angle is probably the biggest decision maker. I rode my mullitized commencal meta 29 enduro bike around with a 63⁰ head angle and it was a lot of fun. Definitely had to pay attention on steep tech climbs and switchbacks. A motor does ease that though. Mine saw a lot of bike park gondola laps though. Depends on your usage. Zeb isnt much heavier than a lyric/yari (100ish g) so itll be more geo dependant IMO
 
I havent tried the bike but you should know the zeb is 10mm more axle to crown ,if both forks are equal in travel, plus the 10mm in extra travel.
That will slacken your head and seat angle .8⁰. Your head angle will be 62.8⁰. Thats a dh bike head angle. Definitely fun on the downs. I guess it depends on how you'll be riding the bike. Seat angle will be 76.8. Still relatively steep. Your reach will shorten 4-5mm and your bb height will raise 6mm. Head angle is probably the biggest decision maker. I rode my mullitized commencal meta 29 enduro bike around with a 63⁰ head angle and it was a lot of fun. Definitely had to pay attention on steep tech climbs and switchbacks. A motor does ease that though. Mine saw a lot of bike park gondola laps though. Depends on your usage. Zeb isnt much heavier than a lyric/yari (100ish g) so itll be more geo dependant IMO
I just checked the specifications, and the Zeb has a 5mm higher axle-to-crown measurement than the Lyric for the same fork travel. So, going from a 160mm Lyric to a 170mm Zeb would result in a 15mm increase in axle-to-crown measurement. I had not considered the axle-to-crown variation before, so thank you for bringing it up, I appreciate it!
 
I just checked the specifications, and the Zeb has a 5mm higher axle-to-crown measurement than the Lyric for the same fork travel. So, going from a 160mm Lyric to a 170mm Zeb would result in a 15mm increase in axle-to-crown measurement. I had not considered the axle-to-crown variation before, so thank you for bringing it up, I appreciate it!
Just curious, are you wanting more travel or a stiffer chassis? If you’re worried about the geo change, then you could use an angle adjust headset to steepen it up.
 
I just checked the specifications, and the Zeb has a 5mm higher axle-to-crown measurement than the Lyric for the same fork travel. So, going from a 160mm Lyric to a 170mm Zeb would result in a 15mm increase in axle-to-crown measurement. I had not considered the axle-to-crown variation before, so thank you for bringing it up, I appreciate it!
Oh 5mm diff. Good to know. Maybe the 38 that varies 10mm.
Personally, the zeb at 160 would be my choice knowing i get 5mm axle to crown diff. 63.6⁰ ha sounds about perfect for what id want, and the SA is still more 77+
 
Just curious, are you wanting more travel or a stiffer chassis? If you’re worried about the geo change, then you could use an angle adjust headset to steepen it up.
I am primarily looking for a stiffer chassis. I have a Fox 38 on my regular bike and have noticed a difference in the fork flex. I do not think the 5 mm with the 160 mm air shaft will make a significant difference in how the bike feels and handles. I will still try the 170mm fork and see how it feels, if I do not like it I will go with the 160mm travel.
 
FYI, the new Lyrik is significantly stiffer than the outgoing model and lighter than all the 38s. I gave some a proper battering on some serious steep chunky tech in Czech a few weeks ago and was amazed at the abuse it took and still tracked true.
 
FYI, the new Lyrik is significantly stiffer than the outgoing model and lighter than all the 38s. I gave some a proper battering on some serious steep chunky tech in Czech a few weeks ago and was amazed at the abuse it took and still tracked true.
I am not saying the Lyrik is not stiff enough for what it is, but the Lyrik, compared to my Fox 38s is not as stiff as I prefer. However, I did not try the fox 38 on this frame; perhaps I should have before purchasing the new 2025 Zeb.

I am looking forward to trying the new 3.1 damper. They seem to have made an effort to address some of the 3.0 damper complaints.
 
A little more comparison between the Pivot Shuttle SL and the Devinci eTroy Lite systems and ride feel.

I tested using the same track (12.1km, 621m elevation, 52-54 mins) with almost identical trail conditions and temps. Both bikes are using Maxxis Assegai on front and DHRII on the back.

The Pivot was in Rocket mode for the climbs and Eco for the descents. The Devinci was set to EMTB and Eco (I don't notice much difference on steep climbs between Turbo and eMTB modes with a low cadence).

The result measured in the system apps
Fazua (430Wh) - used 39% (168Wh)
Bosch (400Wh) - used 66% (264Wh)

Based on my unscientific test, the Devinci/Bosch used more power than the Pivot/Fazua setup. I'd be curious to see what a more similar bike like a Transition Relay PNW would use on the same test track.

The Fazua felt more engaged on steep climbs at a low cadence; unless you spin at a higher cadence you can't even feel the Bosch is doing anything. This isn't a big deal if you know it, but is something to be aware of. Despite this, the Devinci is way more capable and forgiving on the descents. The Pivot feels sketchy in the dry and loose summer conditions and you can find the limit pretty easily.

Guess I better get a range extender :p
 
A quick update on the new fork: the fork feels great right out of the box, with the sag properly set and the rebound and compression settings recommended by Trailhead.
The 170mm travel up front is noticeable on slow turns and technical climbs. The bike feels better on the downhill sections, but I am not sure if that is due to the new fork travel, the Lyrik vs Zeb, the new 3.1 damper, or a combination of the three. So far, I have only one ride on the new fork.

E troy.jpg
 
I was hoping to avoid regretting my purchase, but after searching for hours, I need help with a couple of projects. I'm looking to replace the brakes and wonder if I have to remove the motor to route the rear cable. Next, I want to remove the SRAM crank arm. Is this a standard SRAM crank removal, or do I need a crank arm puller? Finally, for battery removal, do I have to drop the motor to access the battery? Thank you for any help. It would be great to have a more detailed manual for DIY bike riders.
 
I was hoping to avoid regretting my purchase, but after searching for hours, I need help with a couple of projects. I'm looking to replace the brakes and wonder if I have to remove the motor to route the rear cable. Next, I want to remove the SRAM crank arm. Is this a standard SRAM crank removal, or do I need a crank arm puller? Finally, for battery removal, do I have to drop the motor to access the battery? Thank you for any help. It would be great to have a more detailed manual for DIY bike riders.
Removing the motor would make the job ten times easier, I learned this the hard way by routing my brake hose the first time without removing it. It only requires two T40 Torx bolts and three wire connectors, which are easily removed. The torque specification for these bolts is 30 nm. At the same time, I recommend that you inspect the motor bushing and grease the bolts properly to eliminate some noise.

I removed it with the Park Tool CWP-7 crank puller with the larger end, remember to remove the small washer in the crank arm before attempting to pull out the crank. My chainring retaining nut was not properly tightened, I had to torque it back to specification.

You must remove the motor to gain access to the battery.

If you have other questions, feel free to ask.
 
Removing the motor would make the job ten times easier, I learned this the hard way by routing my brake hose the first time without removing it. It only requires two T40 Torx bolts and three wire connectors, which are easily removed. The torque specification for these bolts is 30 nm. At the same time, I recommend that you inspect the motor bushing and grease the bolts properly to eliminate some noise.

I removed it with the Park Tool CWP-7 crank puller with the larger end, remember to remove the small washer in the crank arm before attempting to pull out the crank. My chainring retaining nut was not properly tightened, I had to torque it back to specification.

You must remove the motor to gain access to the battery.

If you have other questions, feel free to ask.
Thank you for the advice it is impossible to find any diagram online. I did find a diagram on Whyte website which seems close https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...Owners_Manual_V01_Rev_B-comp.pdf?v=1709030955
For the cranks I was hoping the Sram cranks would self extract so then I'm guessing I wont be able to use my 5dev cranks that were Dub compatible ?
again thank you !!!
 
Thank you for the advice it is impossible to find any diagram online. I did find a diagram on Whyte website which seems close https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...Owners_Manual_V01_Rev_B-comp.pdf?v=1709030955
For the cranks I was hoping the Sram cranks would self extract so then I'm guessing I wont be able to use my 5dev cranks that were Dub compatible ?
again thank you !!!
The cranks are ISIS interface, so I highly doubt they are compatible with the one from 5dev.
 
Sorry about all the questions the website doesn’t offer any info on if I can run a coil on my E-light . My gut tells me yes any feed back would be great.
 
Sorry about all the questions the website doesn’t offer any info on if I can run a coil on my E-light . My gut tells me yes any feed back would be great.
I have not yet tried the coil on the E-Troy Lite, I considered getting the new Vivid coil, but the SDU that came with my bike performs well.
2024-09-10 163749.png
 
Has anyone long stroked their shock? Id be curious if the bike can run 57.5mm or 60mm stroke for 155 to 160mm rear travel
 
Sorry about all the questions the website doesn’t offer any info on if I can run a coil on my E-light . My gut tells me yes any feed back would be great.
I converted to coil a month ago and love it. I'm running a DHX with a 500lb SLS spring (I weigh 175lbs geared up). The linear ride feel is more my style. It feels more planted in fast rough stuff and traction is noticeably improved. However, the suspension is more active when climbing (this may be corrected with a heavier spring) so a climb switch is useful.

I know the Float X can be amazing too and I probably didn't spend enough time tweaking it. The opportunity to get the coil came up so I took it and have not regretted it.
 
Has anyone else had their charging flap come off? I can't get the little post back in properly to keep it secure. Is there a special way to push it back in?
 
OH dang, I didnt even think about that
In the past it seemed a lot of their bikes could be long stroked to get more travel so i had checked previously on the etroy lite. 163r/170f wouldve been sweet if it was possible
 
This bike looks strangely familiar !
Vala - ebike - Santa Cruz Bicycles
Somewhere I read the new Bosch Gen5 motor uses the same mounting bolt pattern as the SX motor- but not the previous gen CX motors. Between that and the batteries, makes me wonder if the E-troy lite could be convertible to a FF, or take the 600w Bosch battery etc. That would be so cool.
 
Somewhere I read the new Bosch Gen5 motor uses the same mounting bolt pattern as the SX motor- but not the previous gen CX motors. Between that and the batteries, makes me wonder if the E-troy lite could be convertible to a FF, or take the 600w Bosch battery etc. That would be so cool.
That's the first thing I thought of when I saw the two bolt mounting system. I'm thinking and hoping that Bosch plays the Sram universal hanger game and has a standard that we can change different motors. Don't get me wrong I love the SX motor and it was one of the reasons why I purchased the Troy-Elite but the idea that I could upgrade my motor in 3 years how sweet would that be.
 
With the into of the Troy in carbon today, has anyone heard if the E-Troy Lite will be available in carbon soon?
 
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