Sram transmission chain not seating on 3rd gear

[Blownoutrides]

I’ve got the 3rd gear skipping issue under load as well on my Pole Voima. Shifted like butter at first but after about 400 miles the skipping started. Installed a new chain and reinstalled derailleur per sram’s instructions and torque specs but the skipping persists. Can’t even use 3rd gear - chain just crunches up/down constantly.

 

[Blownoutrides]

Well, I'm also having a lot of problems with gear 3 and I can't get it to work properly.

When all other gears work fine, gear 3 will be very jerky and will constantly jump between gears. Gear 3 is only kinda happy with micro-adjust set to 1, but even then it starts skipping under heavy load on ascents. However, with micro-adjust set to 1 gear 11 stops working properly.

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Exactly the same boat. Skipping on 3 even with micro adjust set to 1 on my Pole Voima.

 

[blob]

I’ve got the 3rd gear skipping issue under load as well on my Pole Voima. Shifted like butter at first but after about 400 miles the skipping started. Installed a new chain and reinstalled derailleur per sram’s instructions and torque specs but the skipping persists. Can’t even use 3rd gear - chain just crunches up/down constantly.

I had the opposite... It was terrible and skipping constantly for the first 500 kilometers, but now it works perfectly. The only problem is I'm afraid to touch anything now.

 

[Blownoutrides]

Turns out it was a broken tooth on gear 3. It broke off at the indented score mark across its base (shockingly).

I think the broken tooth is actually a symptom of the underlying issue, which is that the cassette is sitting too far inboard of the derailleur. Derailleur is on micro adjust 1 (fully inboard) and the upper pulley wheel is still not completely aligned with the cogs and it still makes ticking noises once chain is seated.

Ordered a GX cassette & derailleur as a backup so we’ll see soon if it’s a SRAM issue or if it’s my DT 240 EXP hub that’s putting the cassette further inboard than SRAM’s T-Type adjustment range can handle.

Also in touch with SRAM tech support, so as soon as we diagnose I’ll post the cause/solution here.

 

[Colin46]

I had XX1 AXS on my New Trek Fuel EX-E and I decided to give XX a try so I fitted the complete transmission as per the instructions and the 3rd gear just wouldn't stay put on the trails so I tried the install 3 times and it was always the same. Now by default my rear XX mech was on 7 on the micro adjust (half way between 1 and 14). While out on the trail I tried a few steps each side, 6 seemed slightly better but going any further just ended up worse.

Yesterday I tried something different, I micro adjusted the rear mech to 6 and then re did the installation (slackened off mech bolt and axe, take slack out of chain and tighten rear mech and axle to torque specs) I have just been for a ride and all the gears now shift perfectly up and down with no skipping or jumping on gear 3.

Worth a try if anyone is still having issues.

 

[larserich]

I have fixed the problem and it is entirely down to the hub of your wheelset. My local dealer installed the groupset and he already told me that he had to move the derailleur completely inwards with the micro-adjustment. He said it was quite strange, but I gave it a try. When I rode I had exactly the same problem with the third sprocket. We contacted Sram and they gave us the attached explanation. So we measured the distance and it was outside the supported range. After changing the wheel with a "supported hub" everything worked perfectly and the transmission shifted perfectly.

So all the stuff about software updates, starting the installation with a different micro-adjustment or whatever won't solve the problem. If you have the problem, it is most likely your wheelset. So I had the choice of going back to my old XX1 or buying a new set of wheels (at least the rear one). I opted for a new set of wheels and am very happy with the performance of the transmission.

 

[Colin46]

I have fixed the problem and it is entirely down to the hub of your wheelset. My local dealer installed the groupset and he already told me that he had to move the derailleur completely inwards with the micro-adjustment. He said it was quite strange, but I gave it a try. When I rode I had exactly the same problem with the third sprocket. We contacted Sram and they gave us the attached explanation. So we measured the distance and it was outside the supported range. After changing the wheel with a "supported hub" everything worked perfectly and the transmission shifted perfectly.

So all the stuff about software updates, starting the installation with a different micro-adjustment or whatever won't solve the problem. If you have the problem, it is most likely your wheelset. So I had the choice of going back to my old XX1 or buying a new set of wheels (at least the rear one). I opted for a new set of wheels and am very happy with the performance of the transmission.

View attachment 128248

Trek are now fitting the new t type transmission to their 2024 rail and fuel ex-e models with the same wheel sets as before so that explanation can’t be entirely correct either unless there is enough micro adjust in t type mech to compensate. I don’t know what Microadjust the new treks have out of factory. Anyone with a new 2024 model care to comment?

 

[Blownoutrides]

Just removed my 2nd attempt at SRAM Transmission and installed 11sp XT link glide 8130 stuff. Shifts like an absolute dream. Only a couple rides in so we will see but at the moment I feel like a ripe idiot for blowing so much $ on expensive sh*t that didn’t last.

Literally the only performance difference is that you have to use a hair more thumb grease to do a shift. Oh, that and it doesn’t creak like a wounded donkey, break cassette & pulley wheel teeth, not shift into or out of 3rd gear, etc., etc…

I don’t know why neither the X0 nor GX stuff worked on my bike and I no longer care (yes I installed it correctly you pious donkeys out there). When you buy expensive stuff, it should actually f*cking work.

Y’all should come to the dark (cheap) side with Link Glide. It’s not sexy, but it f*cking works.

 

[Mikerb]

the bike industry is famed for developing solutions to problems that do not exist! If it aint broke...dont fix it!! I have X01 /GX mix on one bike, GX AXS on another. Both work flawlessly and need no more than slight and quick easing of crank pressure for gear changes so no incentive for me to spend money to achieve nothing and risk incompatibility.

Now getting rid of derailleur and cassette.....that would be progress, but a disaster for both Shimano and SRAM unless they embraced that development!

 

[Ou812]

I have the XO setup on my new SB140, it shifts like butter and has been awesome with the short amount of time I’ve been using it. I have the same setup on my Levo and it’s been a pain in the ass to set up, I can’t get it to shift nowhere near as smooth. It’s either the lower gears shift great and the upper gear suck or vice versa.

The T-Type was designed around a 55mm chainline, I’m guessing that’s why there’s been so many issues with us running it on a 52mm chainline. I was told by my mate’s SRAM rep that the 52mm chainline isn’t ideal for the transmission but will work “ok” after some fiddling.

 

[Quantock Explorer]

3rd gear jumping is still an issue for Transmission. I've just experienced it on a new analogue bike. I raised a question with the Sram technical team and received this useful response:

We've encountered cases where the cassette doesn't seat itself entirely onto the driver body or becomes slightly misaligned, leading to the symptoms you've described. To remedy this, we recommend removing your cassette and then reinstalling it.

During reinstallation, it's crucial to ensure that both the mounting surfaces and threads of the cassette and driver body are pristine and devoid of any dirt or debris. A fresh coat of grease on these surfaces prevents corrosion and facilitates the cassette's complete seating onto the splines. When reattaching the cassette, be sure to use a torque wrench, securing it to 40Nm.

It's all working fine now

 

[RickBullotta]

Following up here: XX cassette reliability is shit. I've never had a SINGLE problem in many years with standard Eagle 12 speed cassettes, on multiple bikes. The XX cassette's teeth are prone to bending and breaking. That's awful for a $700 USD part. And SRAM pretends like they don't know it's an issue. I'm going back to regular AXS eagle and selling this garbage.

 

[irie]

Following up here: XX cassette reliability is shit. I've never had a SINGLE problem in many years with standard Eagle 12 speed cassettes, on multiple bikes. The XX cassette's teeth are prone to bending and breaking. That's awful for a $700 USD part. And SRAM pretends like they don't know it's an issue. I'm going back to regular AXS eagle and selling this garbage.

$700? For a cassette?

 

[RickBullotta]

$700? For a cassette?

It came as part of the upgrade kit, but I'm not keeping it for just that reason. Going back to AXS XO or XX1 Eagle.

 

[P00KIENRAYRAY]

Just installed GX transmission on my
2020 Canyon Spectral ON. Same issue as others: gear 3 is clanking around. Gonna try using SRAM's recommendation and reinstall/retorque cassette to 40nm, and report back.

I have Transmission on 2 other bikes: X0 on Epic Evo w/ 52mm chainline and GX on Levo SL2 with 52mm chainline. Both works perfectly. My Spectral ON has a 55mm chainline, so I'm kinda confused why it would be the only one with issues.

 

[Lloyders88]

I have the XO setup on my new SB140, it shifts like butter and has been awesome with the short amount of time I’ve been using it. I have the same setup on my Levo and it’s been a pain in the ass to set up, I can’t get it to shift nowhere near as smooth. It’s either the lower gears shift great and the upper gear suck or vice versa.

The T-Type was designed around a 55mm chainline, I’m guessing that’s why there’s been so many issues with us running it on a 52mm chainline. I was told by my mate’s SRAM rep that the 52mm chainline isn’t ideal for the transmission but will work “ok” after some fiddling.

Do you know what the chain line size is for a specialized levo sl gen2? I cant seem to find the relevant info, thanks.
i used to have the 3rd gear skipping issue and sram has replaced the entire group set which has fixed the problem but still a clunky mess for what i have paid for it.

 

[Ou812]

Do you know what the chain line size is for a specialized levo sl gen2? I cant seem to find the relevant info, thanks.
i used to have the 3rd gear skipping issue and sram has replaced the entire group set which has fixed the problem but still a clunky mess for what i have paid for it.

No idea but I’d guess it’s a 52mm, I don’t think there’s any e-bikes with a 55mm chain line.

 

[P00KIENRAYRAY]

No idea but I’d guess it’s a 52mm, I don’t think there’s any e-bikes with a 55mm chain line.

It is a 52mm. I have a levo SL 2. Swapped it to GX transmission with the stock ring, and it works perfectly for me using the recommended set up.

 

[Mikerb]

No idea but I’d guess it’s a 52mm, I don’t think there’s any e-bikes with a 55mm chain line.

....possibly a fat bike or a gravel/road bike with a 2 x front derailleur??

 

[Lloyders88]

It is a 52mm. I have a levo SL 2. Swapped it to GX transmission with the stock ring, and it works perfectly for me using the recommended set up.

Works perfectly as in flawless, quiet shifting what ever the selected gear and load? Thanks.

 

[P00KIENRAYRAY]

Works perfectly as in flawless, quiet shifting what ever the selected gear and load? Thanks.

Correct. I’m running transmission on 3 different bikes. Only my Spectral ON running 55mm with SRAM XX chainring is giving me problems. My Epic Evo with 52mm chainline runs good, but clanked a total of 2 times on the #2 gear, but never skipped off. The Levo SL2 with stock ring is the only bike I experienced absolutely no issues. Worked as expected under load throughout all gears and various power modes. I only shift while loaded.

 

[RickBullotta]

I do want to ask a question though: does anyone who has replaced "regular" AXS with Tranmission really notice that much of a difference/improvement? I sure don't. Maybe a tiny bit better shifting under load. A TINY bit. But not worth the incompatibility with my other bikes IMO.

 

[P00KIENRAYRAY]

I do want to ask a question though: does anyone who has replaced "regular" AXS with Tranmission really notice that much of a difference/improvement? I sure don't. Maybe a tiny bit better shifting under load. A TINY bit. But not worth the incompatibility with my other bikes IMO.

I’ve never had regular AXS, but I’m not too impressed with Transmission so far, considering having to make sure you check off all the required boxes to install it and even set it up. The shifting under load works (for the most part). But for me that’s not the biggest selling point. IMO it’s the robustness of the derailleur. However, realistically my RDs usually don’t get beat up, so I’m not really benefitting from Transmission other than it being cool technology.

 

[p3eps]

I used AXS for about 3 and a half years before upgrading to Transmission.
I still have original AXS on my Stumpjumper.

Do I notice any difference? Not really. I never shifted under load anyway, and generally still don't unless it's absolutely necessary. The mounting / lack of hanger is a plus, but again, I've never ripped an derailleur off a bike before.
Shifting on both has been spot on... perhaps a few less 'clunky' shifts with the Transmission... but certainly not worth the additional cost.

On the plus side, I really like the POD now I'm used to it. I still have the older shifter on my Stumpy, and it feels a little alien when I go back to it.

 

[RickBullotta]

I’ve never had regular AXS, but I’m not too impressed with Transmission so far, considering having to make sure you check off all the required boxes to install it and even set it up. The shifting under load works (for the most part). But for me that’s not the biggest selling point. IMO it’s the robustness of the derailleur. However, realistically my RDs usually don’t get beat up, so I’m not really benefitting from Transmission other than it being cool technology.

FWIW, I haven't had a regular AXS derailleur fail either. And I've destroyed many XT/XTR (including Di2) and regular SRAM derailleurs. I have a mix of XX transmission, XX1, X0, and GX on my bikes and my wife's bikes.

 

[RickBullotta]

I used AXS for about 3 and a half years before upgrading to Transmission.
I still have original AXS on my Stumpjumper.

Do I notice any difference? Not really. I never shifted under load anyway, and generally still don't unless it's absolutely necessary. The mounting / lack of hanger is a plus, but again, I've never ripped an derailleur off a bike before.
Shifting on both has been spot on... perhaps a few less 'clunky' shifts with the Transmission... but certainly not worth the additional cost.

On the plus side, I really like the POD now I'm used to it. I still have the older shifter on my Stumpy, and it feels a little alien when I go back to it.

And the pod will work with regular AXS also.

 

[Mteam]

I recently damaged my regular axs derailleur and because they don't sell replacement cages for it, I needed to get a new one so figured I'd go for t type given that my frame (trek fuel exe) supports it.

I just bought the derailuer on its own, so kept all my old stuff, which is a standard (not flat top) gx chain, garbaruk 12 speed cassette on shimano microspline hub, some generic narrow wide chain ring, and the old axs shifter. It all works nicely together, so it seems to me that you don't need to up grade the whole drive train.

I'm sure I'm not getting the full benefit of full power under load shifting(but it does seem pretty good still) and I'm sure sram would say to buy the whole lot if I was experiencing problems, but it seems fine to me so far

 

[p3eps]

I recently damaged my regular axs derailleur and because they don't sell replacement cages for it, I needed to get a new one so figured I'd go for t type given that my frame (trek fuel exe) supports it.

I just bought the derailuer, so kept all my old stuff, which is a standard (not flat top) gx chain, garbaruk 12 speed cassette on shimano microspline hub, some generic narrow wide chain ring, and the old axs shifter. It all works nicely together, so it seems to me that you don't need to up grade the whole drive train.

I'm sure I'm not getting the full benefit of full power under load shifting(but it does seem pretty good still) and I'm sure sram would say to buy the whole lot if I was experiencing problems, but it seems fine to me so far

I wondered about that... as I still have an old 1299 XX1 Cassette, and considered putting it on my spare wheelset to run some fast rolling tyres for the winter.
I wasn't sure if it would be detrimental to the components to mix them up.

And the pod will work with regular AXS also.

Yep... but I sold my XX1 derailleur when I got the transmission... so I'm kind of committed to it now!!
I wouldn't go back, but I don't feel the additional premium was worth the very little benefit.

 

[RickBullotta]

I recently damaged my regular axs derailleur and because they don't sell replacement cages for it, I needed to get a new one so figured I'd go for t type given that my frame (trek fuel exe) supports it.

I just bought the derailuer on its own, so kept all my old stuff, which is a standard (not flat top) gx chain, garbaruk 12 speed cassette on shimano microspline hub, some generic narrow wide chain ring, and the old axs shifter. It all works nicely together, so it seems to me that you don't need to up grade the whole drive train.

I'm sure I'm not getting the full benefit of full power under load shifting(but it does seem pretty good still) and I'm sure sram would say to buy the whole lot if I was experiencing problems, but it seems fine to me so far

That literally shouldn't work with the cassette spacing/offset.

 

[Ou812]

I do want to ask a question though: does anyone who has replaced "regular" AXS with Tranmission really notice that much of a difference/improvement? I sure don't. Maybe a tiny bit better shifting under load. A TINY bit. But not worth the incompatibility with my other bikes IMO.

The clutch on the old AXS was garbage, I would eventually get bad chain slap on just about every bike I had it on. I had 5 derailleurs replaced under warranty between 3 bikes. The only one that hasn’t been replaced at least once is my wife’s bike because it’s barely been ridden, she was back to back pregnant

I’m running the transmission on 3 bikes now. Two of the bikes have a 55mm chain line and it’s awesome on those bikes, the third has a 52mm chain line. The 52mm chain line bike has had a few issues with rough shifting, micro adjust will only work for so long before I have to go back through the whole set-up procedure.