Shimano E8000 (and EP8) re-greasing and Range improvement

Spiff

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It has been said that re-greasing the motor improves the range, so I am going to explain my findings.

In my case, I opened the E8000 motor with 7500Km (I have another motor with 7500Km), I checked that no water had ever entered, the bearings are fine and without rust and they spin smoothly, so I only re-greased:
* For plastic-metal gears I used Molikote PG-75.
* For the crankshaft needle bearings I used White Lithium grease
* For the seals of the bottom bracket, I used Motorex green grease that improves the sealing.

Once this was done, I closed the motor and then I tested it on a 40Km and 400m route that I had done in May before re-greasing the Motor, and I was very surprised by the difference in power usage before and after greasing:
* May 13, 2023 with the motor before greasing, power usage was 210Wh.
* July 29, 2023 with the motor after greasing, power usage was 164Wh

Doing the calculations, it turns out that the ungreased motor uses 28% more power than the greased one. As the temperature was cooler in May and in August we were over 30º, it is even possible that at equal temperature the improvement in autonomy is higher than this 28%.

When this motor is good and does not fail with the famous E010, it is a very nice motor and with this little maintenance that is very easy to do, its life and autonomy improve a lot. But Shimano says that the motors do not need maintenance and that they are a consumable and that when there is a problem with it we have to spend €1,300 and change it for a new one. Probably, this is one of the reasons for the low sale of Shimano powered bikes.

In the photos you can see how dry the gear teeth were, and in the last one how they were after greasing.

IMG_20230720_083951.jpg IMG_20230720_195025.jpg IMG_20230724_180842.jpg
 
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Are we talking about e8000 or ep8? There is already a guy in Poland who also fix e8000/e7000/ep8 motors with a lot more grease then factory place in it but I do not think he made such a test.
 
My experience and test is with E8000, but I read that EP8 construction is similar.
 
It has been said that re-greasing the motor improves the range, so I am going to explain my findings.

In my case, I opened the E8000 motor with 7500Km (I have another motor with 7500Km), I checked that no water had ever entered, the bearings are fine and without rust and they spin smoothly, so I only re-greased:
* For plastic-metal gears I used Molikote PG-75.
* For the crankshaft needle bearings I used White Lithium grease
* For the seals of the bottom bracket, I used Motorex green grease that improves the sealing.

Once this was done, I closed the motor and then I tested it on a 40Km and 400m route that I had done in May before re-greasing the Motor, and I was very surprised by the difference in power usage before and after greasing:
* May 13, 2023 with the motor before greasing, power usage was 210Wh.
* July 29, 2023 with the motor after greasing, power usage was 164Wh

Doing the calculations, it turns out that the ungreased motor uses 28% more power than the greased one. As the temperature was cooler in May and in August we were over 30º, it is even possible that at equal temperature the improvement in autonomy is higher than this 28%.

When this motor is good and does not fail with the famous E010, it is a very nice motor and with this little maintenance that is very easy to do, its life and autonomy improve a lot. But Shimano says that the motors do not need maintenance and that they are a consumable and that when there is a problem with it we have to spend €1,300 and change it for a new one. Probably, this is one of the reasons for the low sale of Shimano powered bikes.

In the photos you can see how dry the gear teeth were, and in the last one how they were after greasing.

View attachment 121454 View attachment 121455 View attachment 121456
Spiff - My first post!
Really good info here. Thanks for the before and after results.
Shimano would be very happy to sell another motor that "doesn't need servicing/re-lubing".

There is not much to say regarding lubrication. Without it, we would grind to a complete stop.
Often, I cringe when I hear a chain squeaking on a bike that's riding by on under-inflated tires. The rider usually wears a backwards mounted helmet, if one at all.
Thanks for including the grease types chosen.
 
21 december 2021
I wrote here



I reused the "old" white grease for the clutch and OKS 270 for the teeth.

All my ball bearings are now sealed and on both sides.
Originally, only the ball bearing on the right of the axle is sealed on both sides,
and the one on the left only on one side... !!!

The clutch has a good grip like new.


But if you reed the OKS papers, this grease should do all what we need >>>
metal/metal,
plastic/metal,
non corosive for platsic, rubber and coated and non-coated PCBs,
high pressure,
heat,
non dispersive by "high" rotations and quickly done "stop-an-go"

Please see Data Sheet pdf in GB or in DE.
 
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