My Emtb life ( Ongoing Blog ): Current bike: Haibike Sduro Hardseven 2.5

Can anyone confirm / compare crank arm clearance on their haibikes ?

left side seems to have way more clearance than the right side in regards to frame.

not sure if i have damaged the crank arms somehow ( cant recall any strikes that would do this ) or if this is normal.

ignore the ( right side ) zip ties, velcro and rubber etc as thats just precautions for chain suck and a diy lower chain guide.
regards
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So after convincing myself that the multitude of strikes i HAVE had would not be in the force levels to do such damage i decided to investigate the arms a little !

Like 99% of the parts on my Haibike its like finding a needle in 1000 haystacks for information, so took them off hoping to find some kind of part number etc but Nope, all i can find is the brand ( Miranda ) and some numbers ( i can only assume some kind of sizing ) which are different on left and right !!

right shows 32 20
left shows 36 20

now if the 32 / 36 is some kind of offset / Q factor sizings then that explains why left gap ( 36 ) is more than right gap ( 32 ).

So at the moment im a bit lost again as what to buy as my head is confuddled again with isis,jsi,square,diamond etc etc

i have determined they are 170mm and thats about it.
 
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So..... i reckon i can do this !!

as my rear rim is dented / damaged ( ive ridden it and its fine atm ) ive been looking at the cost of rear wheels WTF !!
i then noticed just a few rims popping up at a considerable fraction of the price, looking at some videos etc it looks pretty straight forward to just swap my current hub and spokes over to a new ( improved ) rim.
So my current is a 32 hole 27.5 25mm rim and was thinking this might just be the opportunity to go 30mm rim and just switch the hub and spokes over to a brand new rim, so as long as i get a 27.5 32 hole rim it should be straight forward yes ?

i will tru the wheel the best i can and if unable i can just get LBS to correct it.

This will be so much cheaper and rewarding i think but worried im missing something here as it seems way too cheaper than buying a full new wheel ! is it the prices of hubs and spokes that make up all that difference?

any advice / opinions welcomed on this
Regards

Update: Ordered 2 Mavic 30mm E-XM 430's to rebuild my wheels using the existing hubs and spokes will be a good experience to try and build my own wheels i think.
 
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Upgrading my brake set to Magura MT5's.
My Tektro 2 pots are feeling very piss poor on the downhills and never actually provided me much confidence in stopping from day 1.
Hopefully the MT5 are an improvement !!
 
Slymobi said:
Upgrading my brake set to Magura MT5's.
My Tektro 2 pots are feeling very piss poor on the downhills and never actually provided me much confidence in stopping from day 1.
Hopefully the MT5 are an improvement !!
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The MT7 pads are a useful upgrade, (Magura recommend the 8S pads for Ebikes), as the genuine ones come with 2 fixing bolts that mean you can change the pads in seconds without moving the calipers. Also someone's usually selling them cheap on eBay.

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Jackware said:
The MT7 pads are a useful upgrade, (Magura recommend the 8S pads for Ebikes), as the genuine ones come with 2 fixing bolts that mean you can change the pads in seconds without moving the calipers. Also someone's usually selling them cheap on eBay.

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Thanks @Jackware will take that on board and get some ordered.
 
FML rims came so started setting up the transfer.... i must have been screen tired as i knew i needed 32H but somehow ive ordered mavic 28H.
After hours of trying to get the original rim back into a rideable state ive failed lol,
Now my back wheel ( the damaged one ) is 90% worse than it was and im unable to get it remotely trued.
Retailer has accepted a no cost return of the incompatible Mavics so at least there is one positive to take.

Im a muppet ffs.
 
Why don’t you get a hope wheel and hub I think you can get for about 260 built. Then if you have any other problems you can get hub parts really easy as that will be next thing to fail as oem parts on lower budget Models are rubbish.
There are other brands that do wheels to but I found hope to be best value and a quality product.
 
Slymobi said:
FML rims came so started setting up the transfer.... i must have been screen tired as i knew i needed 32H but somehow ive ordered mavic 28H.
After hours of trying to get the original rim back into a rideable state ive failed lol,
Now my back wheel ( the damaged one ) is 90% worse than it was and im unable to get it remotely trued.
Retailer has accepted a no cost return of the incompatible Mavics so at least there is one positive to take.

Im a muppet ffs.
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I have some spare RaceFace 32 hole rims i could get to you, I think they're quite wide though, 40mm ext
 
VWsurfbum said:
I have some spare RaceFace 32 hole rims i could get to you, I think they're quite wide though, 40mm ext
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Thank you very much for that offer, much appreciated but i think 40 is just to wide for me.
been attacking the existing wheel and ive managed to get it half decent again.

im going to go to lbs and see what they have in stock and might just splash out on just a rear instead of matching up the front too.

@VWsurfbum again thanks for the thought and offer
 
Ian986 said:
Why don’t you get a hope wheel and hub I think you can get for about 260 built. Then if you have any other problems you can get hub parts really easy as that will be next thing to fail as oem parts on lower budget Models are rubbish.
There are other brands that do wheels to but I found hope to be best value and a quality product.
Click to expand...
thanks for advice, i agree that hope seems to be a great option but atm my budget cant stretch to that and again right now the hub is great ( i maintain it well ) so swapping rims is most cost effective ( if you buy the correct ones lol ).
 
I would seriously think about the hope wheel and hub. My rear bearings only lasted about 500 miles before had to be taken apart, then another 200 miles later needed new bearings. I was the opposite to you as rim was fine, but the labour to re lace the wheel and new bearing was not worth it. I paid 400 for the pair of wheels you can get deals if you shop around. I think back was about 250. The hub alone is worth 180 ish. To me I enjoy my bike and if I can upgrade something which is better and last a lot longer then I am for it. Hope hubs parts are easily available. There are lots of other brands which are to a similar standard you may find a lbs has just a rear wheel as most people will by in pairs

I probably am harder on my wheels and hub as when fully kitted out I am 115 kg

My Mrs had the exactly same bike as you until battery kept coming loose and bike cut out so we exchanged for a different brand. The haibike is a great Bike to start you emtb journey but bits will brake on it as built to a price point.

Theses wheels take punishment with my weight and bike weight too

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I forgot to mention they come tubeless ready too from memory I am not sure the standard tyres is on your bike but rim will be ready for when you change tyres next

I promise I don’t work for hope or any other wheel company just trying to help out as kind of been there before and I looked into lots of different Scenarios.
 
Appreciate the feedback and advice
Standard tyres were the WTB rangers, i got rid of them pretty quick and currently run Hans Dampf, I service my hubs along with everything else myself and im 2080 miles clocked with no hub issues yet. The only things that are still oem are bars, crank ( arms ), wheelsets, brakes and cables, Magura MT5 Brakes are due Thursday so that will be taken off the oem list. I will still need to replace the rim and will probably match front to rear by swapping over from existing which is far more cost effective and will lace / tru myself ( feel it will be a nice task to master ).
That will just leave very few oem parts remaining and for sure when the time comes to replace the hub i will most likely look into the hope sets.

As for the Battery..... i had the error issue but found just tightening up the brackets and placing some velcro strips around the battery ( this keeps it very snug in the frame ) to stop any kind of movement vertical/horizontal that keeps the connections tight and intact, cleared the error code and have not had any issues since.

I have the normal love / hate moments with the Haibike and In hindsight i do wish i had of got a full suspension but was advised ( medical reasons ) on hardtail.

Your feedback and advice is welcomed and in no way did i assume you work for hope but wouldnt have minded if you did either ( could have got staff discounts lol ).

Regards
 
So prepping for the Magura has gone well, rear internal tektro brakes removed without cutting and fully functional still with the help of some electrical tape to seal the end whilst removing lol ( it worked ) and attaching some trimmer line to aid pulling the new magura hose through.

To be continued....
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Arrived...
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Fitted
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I didnt even need the line to pull through frame, went through really easy

Got a spoke tension tool too
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Good job too as my truing obviously needs work on as the tensions were so far out and miss matched.

used the tool and much better cross spoke even tensions now, left the wheel slightly more wobbly but that will be the buckle/dent and hopefully be able to swap over to new rims next week.
 
yup real easy, and fly off so be aware or smart and cover them with your other hand lol
 
Time is really hit and miss as the fiancé ( Girlpants said yes after 18 years of waiting for me to ask ) is away on a girly weekend and ive got the kids ( 10 and 5 year olds ) to entertain !! but slowly managed to tru my rear with new rim.
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For my first real attempt at this it went slowly but good, not sure how long a pro takes but it took quite some time and patience getting it as tru as i have.

it looked almost perfect and i then banged the tyre, tannus and tube back on, inflated tyre and..... WOW i think i buckled my tyre lol !!

the wheel now looks terrible on rotation as though its so out of tru it never was

i know the actual wheel is damn near perfect so gonna just leave it at that and hope after a ride it balances out.

is it normal for this to occur ?

( Will do the front as and when time permits ).

Regards
 
Nearly ready, just having a few issues with bead not popping into rim sidewalls. Going to try the soapy water and extra tyre pressure trick.
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Update: Supplied with rim ( tape ) is quite wide and noticed some parts had scrunched under the beading so corrected the tape and then used some good old fairy liquid ( watered down into soapy water ) and spread it in the rim against both innerwall of rim, rim tape and actual tyre beading. inflated to +5 psi above MAX recommend and heard that most satisfactory popping of seating. Checked the tyre guide line ( not sure this is an official thing but there is a line around the circumference just outside of rim where the bead sits below !! ) all around and its pretty much equal. deflated to desired psi and its looking 95% better on spinning.

im happy its as correct as i can get it now along with pretty near perfect tru.

slymobi's law its just started pissing it down but will get out for a tender test ride in the morning
 
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The rims are looking good.
The brakes insets, have you gone across the hole in the middle?
 
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