EM600, EM900, M8150 crank weights confirmed

Longfellow78

Longfellow78

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I can confirm that the weights of the different crank sets are as follows for those who are looking to replace the e13 cranks:

EM600: 555g SHIMANO STEPS EP8 Kurbelarmset FC-EM600 E-Bike schwarz
M8150: 445.4g SHIMANO STEPS EP8 Kurbelarmset Deore XT FC-M8150 Hollowtech II E-Bike schwarz
EM900: 447.6g SHIMANO STEPS EP8 Kurbelarmset FC-EM900 E-Bike schwarz
E*13 E*spec: 500g E*Thirteen

These are all 170mm. I think the EM900 and M8150 are the same exact cranks - no idea why the EM900 are more expensive. That is a pretty chunky weight saving for weight weenies over the em600 and small saving over the E*13 garbage cranks

Enjoy.

Edit: apparently m8150 and em900 are the same, but have a better finish. I'd rather have the XT branded ones!

Edit 2: M7 160mm M8150s just arrived and they are exactly 420grams including caps.
 
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btw e*13 for Shimano EP8 according to their site is
160mm: 470g
165mm: 480g
170mm: 494g
175mm: 500g
 
Does any one know the correct fitting for the aftermarket shimano cranks ?

is it the same torque setting as e13
Do you make sure the hole is Opposite the split in the crank arm
 
@chrismechmaster Manuals can be found here: FC-EM900 Torque of pinch bolts is the same (12-14nm); note Shimano sends the pinch bolts greased...accordingly I did not use threadlocker on those bolts like Orbea did with the e*13s. The hole in the spindle needs to be aligned with the split in the crank arm on the Shimanos, as they use that hole for their 'stopper plate'.
 
Ducman71 said:
@chrismechmaster Manuals can be found here: FC-EM900 Torque of pinch bolts is the same (12-14nm); note Shimano sends the pinch bolts greased...accordingly I did not use threadlocker on those bolts like Orbea did with the e*13s. The hole in the spindle needs to be aligned with the split in the crank arm on the Shimanos, as they use that hole for their 'stopper plate'.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much great help very much appreciated
 
Less than 100 grams that low on an emtb hardly makes any differences. Nobody could notice the difference when riding in a blindfold test setup.
 
soundwave said:
Less than 100 grams that low on an emtb hardly makes any differences. Nobody could notice the difference when riding in a blindfold test setup.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with all but one part of this. If you chip away at a few places where you can see weight savings without compromising reliability, it's a win. Cranks, pedals and saddles are cheapest options, that combined for me is a saving of 350g. Get some summer/trail NEXT SL carbon wheels (260g), EXO+ Dissectors (480g saving vs DHRII/Assguy), and an XTR rear mech (157g) all on the UK C2W scheme (40% off), and you're then up to 1.25kg of weight saving, most of which is in unsprung, rotational mass and now it's getting interesting....

What part don't I agree with? Performing blindfold tests on a mtb.
 
Yes of course this is the path, if one really wants to reduce the total bike weight - then one has to go over every component. But if it's just the cranks, then it's irrelevant imo.
 
My E-13 170mm with boots on 476g without boots 461g my EM900 were around 460g 165mm was surprised weren’t much lighter than the E-13 but are now fitted so not weighing again 😂
 
This is for Bosch, not Shimano.

Longfellow78 said:
E*13 E*spec: 520g E*Thirteen
Click to expand...

Interesting, my numbers are a bit different:
  • Shimano FC-EM900 165mm w/ preload caps: 427.9g
  • e*thirteen e*spec 165mm are w/ caps, dust shield, and boots: 490.9g
I've verified my scale is accurate using calibration weights.

Regarding FC-EM900 vs FC-M8150, it appears the difference is in the finish. Before you laugh, that's the same difference as SRAM X01 vs XX1 for chain and cassette :) (the XX1 stuff is actually heavier because it has a coating).
 
I made a typo on my first post, it was 500g not 520g e13 quote for the 170mm.
 
20220403_090359.jpg

Sorry to butt in. I'm just checking Ive bought the right cranks as I've busted my thumb up pretty bad and won't be using the bike for a couple of months. I have a standard M20 size small.20220403_090359.jpg
 
Buggbairn said:
View attachment 85272
Sorry to butt in. I'm just checking Ive bought the right cranks as I've busted my thumb up pretty bad and won't be using the bike for a couple of months. I have a standard M20 size small.View attachment 85272
Click to expand...
Yes they are correct. Scroll down to crank arms.
bike.shimano.com

EP8 EP800 SERIES | SHIMANO BIKE COMPONENT | SHIMANO BIKE-EU

To Build Closer Relationships between People, Nature, and Bicycles. We believe in the power of cycling to create a better world as we move forward. We inspire all people to enjoy our products in their everyday lives and where they take them.
bike.shimano.com bike.shimano.com
 
Availability for the M8150 and EM900 are absolutely terrible, at least in the UK, expensive as a result :(
 
How do crank arms length is chosen?
Im getting the XL H15, kinda afraid reading all those comments on the e13 crank arms...
What is the length of the crank arms arriving with the bike, and how do one choose the length, based on what measurements?
Im 194cm tall, if that matters somehow :)
 
Here is an interesting Crank Length calculator. I am 5'10 and after using this calculator it says that I need 170mm
highpath.co.uk

Crank Length Calculation

Crank length calculation is important to use the correct length of crank to ensure that your legs can work efficiently. Knee damage is a risk otherwise.
highpath.co.uk highpath.co.uk
 
I bit the bullet and ordered some M8150s 160mm for my H15. I am 5ft6, so think that 160mm will be fine. In fact this article suggests that 160mm cranks are optimal for eMTBs: What’s the best crank length on an E-MTB?
They also mean you give higher cadence and are a touch lighter. Good for the Rise!
 
Longfellow78 said:
I bit the bullet and ordered some M8150s 160mm for my H15. I am 5ft6, so think that 160mm will be fine. In fact this article suggests that 160mm cranks are optimal for eMTBs: What’s the best crank length on an E-MTB?
They also mean you give higher cadence and are a touch lighter. Good for the Rise!
Click to expand...

At 5ft6 + eMTB 160mm cranks are a no brainer. The decision gets a little dicey for 6ft+ riders. I went with 170mm, but imagine 160 or 165s would work just as well with bit more clearance.
 
Better clearance is nice, but longer cranks also provides better weight distribution on the bike (having one at the front and another towards the back)
at 6'3" I think 165 or 170 is probably better.
My older bike had 175. but I honestly didnt deep dive into it, much like I wouldnt unless the whole e13's fiasco
 
SillyPosition said:
Better clearance is nice, but longer cranks also provides better weight distribution on the bike (having one at the front and another towards the back)
at 6'3" I think 165 or 170 is probably better.
My older bike had 175. but I honestly didnt deep dive into it, much like I wouldnt unless the whole e13's fiasco
Click to expand...
I think the better weight distribution idea with longer cranks sounds like it makes intuitive sense, but I don't think most people (including me) actially know what that means in a practical sense. I suspect what is meant is perhaps a better feeling of stability in theory with feet further apart although with such small margins I doubt very much if it makes practical difference, especially for those with shorter legs. It's definatel not about I'm not sure what it actually means in practice, in fact with my mediocre understanding of physics, I strongly suspect that more "weight distribution" because your weight doesn't change location it is still in the exact same place over the bike above the base of the top tube.
 
Yeah, probably its negligible compared to standing position and how far back/front you pose yourself compared to the bike
How do one choose between 165 and 170? Its half a centimeter, its so...nothing

Also, aside from the crank arms themselves, what does it requires to replace? is it a matter of unscrewing, pulling, pushing the new ones, and screw to lock?
Do special parts or pieces are needed as well?
 
SillyPosition said:
Yeah, probably its negligible compared to standing position and how far back/front you pose yourself compared to the bike
How do one choose between 165 and 170? Its half a centimeter, its so...nothing

Also, aside from the crank arms themselves, what does it requires to replace? is it a matter of unscrewing, pulling, pushing the new ones, and screw to lock?
Do special parts or pieces are needed as well?
Click to expand...

You can remove the e13s with a hex wrench. To install the SHIMANO’s, you need the fixing bolt tool and a torque wrench with a narrow bit extender.
 
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