My Chinese frame and motor build. The CHEEB, V1.0 - Build Thread

Would agree with that & for final polish up, stuff like Meguiars or G3 compound is pretty good & much less abrasive than even wet & dry.
 
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@Rob Rides EMTB really cool project dude. Where did you manage to get Zeb Ultimate's for that price?
Bike-Discount.de - I noticed the price fluctuates a lot. I had time waiting for the frame to get the best prices.

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polish to finish after final coat bud. build up as much as you can, it will give you the best chance of not polishing or sanding through
3 coats of clear coat so will give gentle wet sand 1000 grit then polish. I’m not super fussed about 100% perfection as fist DIY attempt, but if I can improve it will be happy b
 
3 coats of clear coat so will give gentle wet sand 1000 grit then polish. I’m not super fussed about 100% perfection as fist DIY attempt, but if I can improve it will be happy b
do you have a polishing compound ? I used to go through polishing compounds from heavy to light (all relative of course, they were not heavy at all) on a wheel, a rotary sander or by hand. if you mop it with a sander and bonnet, be careful of edges, otherwise just follow the same route around the frame as you did when you sanded. the best thing I found once it was off the polishing wheel was using 3M's 'finesse it' - however, it shows every little bit that you missed :D so may be overkill on a MTB frame but was essential for what I was doing.
 
do you have a polishing compound ? I used to go through polishing compounds from heavy to light (all relative of course, they were not heavy at all) on a wheel, a rotary sander or by hand. if you mop it with a sander and bonnet, be careful of edges, otherwise just follow the same route around the frame as you did when you sanded. the best thing I found once it was off the polishing wheel was using 3M's 'finesse it' - however, it shows every little bit that you missed :D so may be overkill on a MTB frame but was essential for what I was doing.
I do have a DAS6 sander and polish - maybe I can use this

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Ready to build tomorrow

View attachment 47834
hi rob. mine is assembled, i just waiting rear brake hose to test it. I am impressed by the quality of the frame, all adjusts perfectely. however i needed to increase length of wire of remote and the power supply, too short. another recomandations, rear hydraulic hose and derailleur pass through the hole behind the lower swing arm. I will test before with 2x29" . With the 315x60 rear shock i have 163mm travel and i have mounted 160 fork, that gave 360mm of bb hight. i test 27.5 more later
 
hi rob. mine is assembled, i just waiting rear brake hose to test it. I am impressed by the quality of the frame, all adjusts perfectely. however i needed to increase length of wire of remote and the power supply, too short. another recomandations, rear hydraulic hose and derailleur pass through the hole behind the lower swing arm. I will test before with 2x29" . With the 315x60 rear shock i have 163mm travel and i have mounted 160 fork, that gave 360mm of bb hight. i test 27.5 more later
Thanks for all the tips. I agree the frame seems very good so far.

what shock mounting did you use? Did you need to order custom fit?
 
Thanks for all the tips. I agree the frame seems very good so far.

what shock mounting did you use? Did you need to order custom fit?
for the moment i have mounted an RP2 air in 215x60 to try "light" (23 kg), after i will ride with the van spring shock visible in upper pics. i have reduced a few the width of yoke (i have purchased one more in prevision)
 
for the moment i have mounted an RP2 air in 215x60 to try "light" (23 kg), after i will ride with the van spring shock visible in upper pics. i have reduced a few the width of yoke (i have purchased one more in prevision)
Thanks. Did you receive any mounting kits with your frame to fit the shock? I need to order some to fit.
 
Are you building it up as a Mullet?
 
Other owners seem to think that the connectors need to be waterproofed, so do fill the connectors with silicon grease or proper dielectric grease.
 
Other owners seem to think that the connectors need to be waterproofed, so do fill the connectors with silicon grease or proper dielectric grease.
Better yet, use an old airplane mechanic favorite ACF-50. It'll stop and prevent any rust, maintain conductivity and not make a mess like dielectric grease. It's a must have in off road motorcycle connection too.
 
Going to be curious what you think of that 500 motor and the programming etc. I think the 600 is a great motor but the programming could be better. Part of that in my case may be Luna as they changed the firmware to their own design.....however some owners have the Bafang 14.6 firmware (latest) and state its much better. On my X1 level 1 is no power, Level 2 seems like maybe 10% and level 3 is like 60%......Hoping I can fix that in the future!
 
Or even this one?


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