Hello people my decoy has devolved a creek! Mainly when I stand out of the saddle or peddling out of a bend. It was always their since I got it but it's getting worse I narrowed the creek to the main pivot. I was going to take it apart but have run into trouble. I have taken to locking bolt out and the rear pivot bolts but for the life of me I can seem to pull the pivot axle out. Any advice? I presume the pivot bolt pulls the pivot axle in to the chain stay side. I but a longer bolt in to the the pivot axle and tapped it with a mallet but no movement at all on the chain stay side. Any ideas.
Main pivot removal
- Thread starter Maherto
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #3
Oh no disaster the creek has being caused by the chain side of the pivot rubbing the frame? plus the pivot bearing are sezied as the are pressed so hard on to the spacer shaft in the main frame. I reckon the alloy cups which hold the bearing are in the wrong position during the moulding process. Man of all times having to send the bike back to them just when lock down easing and summer ???. I hope the process will be quick.
- Thread starter
- #4
Sami Tuominen
Member
Take picture how its done?
Fatbap
Well-known member
Oh no disaster the creek has being caused by the chain side of the pivot rubbing the frameplus the pivot bearing are sezied as the are pressed so hard on to the spacer shaft in the main frame. I reckon the alloy cups which hold the bearing are in the wrong position during the moulding process. Man of all times having to send the bike back to them just when lock down easing and summer
plus the pivot bearing are sezied as the are pressed so hard on to the spacer shaft in the main frame. I reckon the alloy cups which hold the bearing are in the wrong position during the moulding process. Man of all times having to send the bike back to them just when lock down easing and summer If u speak to yt an show them the pics of what is goin on. Then ask them to send u a shim/washer for the pivot. I had the same problem an made the shim myself but spoke to yt an they said they would have done the same thing an they do have the shims in stock . Since doin mine it’s been perfect
- Thread starter
- #7
I made a shim out of a stainless washer which is 1.1 mm thick. Well when I say I made I just ground the excess material off. The inner diameter was already good. I seem to have an issue with the bearings as the extremely stiff I can only rotate they 1/4 turn. I recon when the frame was moulded the alloy bearing cups where not in correctly postion as in not enough distance between them.
KenX
E*POWAH Master
Just cleaned and greased mine as it developed a tick/creak, undo the 5mm bolt, then use a 6mm allen key to remove the main pivot. Clean and grease. Torque the pivot back up to 15nm, then blue loctite on the 5mm bolt, torqued to 5nm into the expanded cone.
Fixed my creak, there was a shim on the non-drive side between the swingarm and frame already fwiw.........
Fixed my creak, there was a shim on the non-drive side between the swingarm and frame already fwiw.........
Fatbap
Well-known member
Yt said to me that due to the bikes are hand build on some bikes might need a shim, my thoughts was the same as urs tho. Sounds like ur bearings are shot tho lol
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- #10
I have raised a ticket yesterday I haven't had a response yet I suggested the send me a few shims and bearings and I fit them myself instead of sending bike back. I have the relevant pullers and press. If they dont want to I will get parts my self and fit them as I dont want to be without the bike for service turnaround etc but in not sure if that affects warranty. i based in ireland.
I agree - sounds like bearings are bad.
I serviced that pivot while trouble shooting a creak (which wound up originating from the Horst link pivots).
My shim was on the drive side. I don't see how that link could function without the shim
- Thread starter
- #13
Did you replace bearing in main pivot. In the parts drawings they state it a 6903 2rs. But the dimension for that are 17x30x7 but I measure the thickness a 10mm not 7. The number on seal is also 6903 2rs. Their is a 6903 e max that has a width of 10mm on inner race. I dont want to pull the old ones until yt get back to me and say it's ok for me to do it in case it causes issues with warranty. I though they be quick enough getting back but nothing yet.
Fatbap
Well-known member
For me yt have not been that fast at replying normally a few days. Don’t know what size the bearings are sorry as mine are ok. There is a washer/shim fitted in both sides on mine they have rubber bonded to them to act as a seal. But in my case they are not thick enough. I asked yt about the warranty an they replied saying there is no problem as I have saved them a job as they would have done the same
Sapientiea
Active member
You sure you measured correctly? Normally the numbers on the bearing are accurate! Maybe you included the shim?
edit: I check the YT Decoy drawing, but there is no 6903 2RS bearing specified. There are just 3 different bearing specifications:
BEARING 61802-2RS
BEARING 3903-2RS
BEARING 63802-2RS
....or do I miss something?
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- Thread starter
- #16
Hello thanks for the reply.
No you solved my confusion!
I read the parts drawing wrong from the start.
I some how though it was 6903 and the bearing dimensions for that 17x30x7.
The 3903 is 17x30x10 which is what I measured the depth of the inner race as!
Thanks maybe it's time for glasses
No you solved my confusion!
I read the parts drawing wrong from the start.
I some how though it was 6903 and the bearing dimensions for that 17x30x7.
The 3903 is 17x30x10 which is what I measured the depth of the inner race as!
Thanks maybe it's time for glasses
Sapientiea
Active member
Hahaha can happen. As it happens I took out all the pivots today of our 2 Decoys to see if the bearings were OK and to grease the pivots. Checked also visually and it it same as in the online drawings.
- Thread starter
- #18
Pulled bearing out as yt haven't got back to me yet. They felt fine out of the frame so I popped the seal put marine grease in and pressed them back in. They fine now they must have being pushed in off spare against the spacer axle. Still waiting for divlevery of shims though. I was going to use some washer a ground down but decided to go the hole hog and spend 2 euro. Not impressed with lack of support from yt though I rang them and was told it be an other week before the ticket is looked at that be roughly 2 weeks before any contact with ticket raised.
Sapientiea
Active member
Yeah I also use the Mobile XHP 222 grease. Works really well.
just went through the process and took around 3-4 weeks door to door
- Thread starter
- #22
Still silence from yt! Not impressed I am sure the care. Anyway shims arived and put back together in the end I used 4 for a total of 0.8mm. The chain stay was centered in the seat stay pivot which it wasn't before its a shame about the weather now.
TheMattieB
Member
is the main pivot in there super tight to unscrew? I got the same creek noises as I pedal up. I started to unscrew the main pivot but it got pretty tight after 4 rotations...I stopped there. Didnt want to damage it if I did something wrong. Let me know. Thanks
KenX
E*POWAH Master
From memory it came out no issues, sorry can't be more helpful....
Are you working on your bike in a bike stand wheels off the ground ? If the bike is off the ground the weight from the wheels if still attached can be loading up the axels making axels tight . Same applies if your working on the bike upside down with the wheels attached .
If you dont have a stand , best to work on the bike wheels attached standing up right leaning against a wall , rages in places the frame may touch other parts of the frame as the frame collapses , even a stack of books under the motor taking the weight as the bike collapses down .
Its just a bike maintenance issue if done correctly will eliminate the creek ., not a big issue . Let me know if you want some advice .
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FB....I started to undo my main pivot to check the shims are in there (I can just make it creak under heavy side-to-side pedaling). But the main pivot just seems to pull the Swing arm into the frame/motor housing on the drive side as I undo it.
Does it extract from just one side? Should I be doing something differently to pull the main pivot assembly out? Both threaded ends are rotating and moving in the same direction when I turn the Allen key and it just gets increasingly tighter. So I squirted some lube into both ends and retightened it so I can ride whilst I get your sage advice!
Did you suss it out Mattie B? I have the same dilemma, I have stopped whilst I get the methodology 100% right!
How did you go ?
I did my main pivot today easy as .
Still no joy. The whole axle turns and undoes the threads at each end (almost) and as it does so it doesn’t exit the frame.
It just pushes the drive side chain stay out and pulls the non drive side into the frame. So it gets tighter and tighter.
I’m not sure what it’s ‘sticking’ on the inside. A bearing? Or is there something else ?
I can’t tap it out as it’s still threaded on to the rear triangle.
It works perfectly! I just can’t access it. So I tightened it all back up after I’d squirted a load of lube in and continue riding until I can get a better look at one coming out and what the internal issues could be.
Any clues ?
- Thread starter
- #30
Hello so when you unscrew or try to unscrew the pivot axel it's pushing the drive side away from the bike? They way the axel is designed is it tightens up into the drive side and then bottoms out on the bearing(and seals) on the non drive side what hold the no drive side is a taper lock. I presume when you tried to take the axel out you had the taper lock yoke out ( I can't remember if the Allen key for main axel will fit through the taper lock cone.)It sound like your right to stop if you encountered resistance. If you back it off and when the drive side is pushing away give a thump with your palm. I bet the issue is the taper lock is still locked which is blue below. The chain stay pushing away can only be that. Hope this helps
