Shimano vs Magura brake upgrade?

Barto

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I'm interested in peoples experience and opinions in which brakes to upgrade to. The sram levels on my 19 Levo keep going spongy. I've had the shop bleed them twice in 200kms since new. I've done some looking around and have narrowed it down to two options. They are roughly the same price and both have 4 pistons each end.
1. Magura mt5 estop
2. Shimano XT BR-M8120
What are your thoughts? Cheers
 
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I'm interested in peoples experience and opinions in which brakes to upgrade to. The sram levels on my 19 Levo keep going spongy. I've had the shop bleed them twice in 200kms since new. I've done some looking around and have narrowed it down to two options. They are roughly the same price and both have 4 pistons each end.
1. Magura mt5 estop
2. Shimano XT BR-M8120
What are your thoughts? Cheers

Option 3: Shimano Zee, if you're in for some extra stopping power and durability :)

Both of your choices are good brakes as well and both do have good stopping power. Also both are easier to bleed than sram and don't squeal like srams are often known for.

Magura is said in general to be more aggressive (on/off wise), whereas Shimano is said to have a better sensitivity (for the wheelies & manuals when you have to hit that brake just very lightly). But all of that is just a minor difference, you might not even feel.
 
You could get a bleed kit and do it yourself, and maybe put in metallic pads. There is no reason for them to get spongy again unless they are defective. But, the Levels have other issues, like no adjustability. At least with the Guide or Code they have the reach adjustment knob and my DeSlackinators will work with them. Deslackinators™ for SRAM® Guide and Code-R Brakes – Matter-Replicator

If I did change brakes, I would get Shimano.
 
I HAve both magura MT5 and Shimano XT regular .I lile the MT05 over the XT. More power and also good feel.
 
Yeah, there's no reason for the spongy. I'd suspect you shop is not doing the best job bleeding them. I bleed my own brakes and recently didn't do the best job. I had to re-bleed them a week later because they got spongy. Sure enough they burped a big bubble when I did. So, I'd get a "pro" kit and bleed them yourself.
The non-pro kit has flimsy syringes and you will not be able to pull a great vacuum with them.
 
Option 4,
Formula Cura 4 pots
Just as easy to bleed as Saints and they use mineral oil too?
How do I know this?
I have both.
Saints on my 2017 Levo
Cura 4 pot Formulas on my 2019 Levo.
The Cura 4 power difference is fairly substantial. Great modulation with the ability to biff you over the bars via a hard one finger dab if you so wish ?
 
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My 2020 Levo Level T brakes are also a big letdown.
Front is a 4 pot which is semi m decent, but the rear is a tiny 2 pot. I'm upgrading ASAP to MT7's with HC3 levers, first the rear and later the front (when santa comes around :cool:).

Do shimano brakes mix with SRAM shiftmix clamps? I briefly looked at the saints and it looks like they have a different style of clamp.
 
Brakes are gonna be my next upgrade..I don't like the Code R's at all and am fed up of them squealing when warm and very on/off...

MT7 for sure. I rode them down the Megavalanche and loved them. Apparently they are a bitch to bleed though. Bike Discount has got a very good price on them:

MT7 Pro HC Carbotecture SL® Disc Brake Set + Storm HC
 
Alert: that set is max 180mm at the rear!
By the way, the HC 220mm solo are only 21€ atm, think it has something to do with halloween sale.

I was wondering if the mdr-p 220mm would fit on the rear of a levo? Anchor awaay!

Oh bugger. Thanks for letting me know that would have been no good!!
 
MT7 for sure. I rode them down the Megavalanche and loved them. Apparently they are a bitch to bleed though.
No worse to bleed than SRAM or Hope. In fact easier than SRAM cos you don’t have to mess about degassing the fluid.
Just have to go easy on the lever bleed plug it’s a little plastic screw that’ll not take abuse.
 
jam running 223 front and 203 rear right now, going big on the front is definitely worth doing if upgrading your brakes IMO
 
jam running 223 front and 203 rear right now, going big on the front is definitely worth doing if upgrading your brakes IMO

What flavour jam ? Do you liberally spread this on the disk before hand or smear the fork leg so it slowly slides down onto the disk during the ride ?
 
Added to shopping list ... and the muppet question .. will these straight swap over on a Mk1 Kenevo Expert ?? ie, keep the existing disks and mounts ?

For the financially conscious, they still do the 2 pot .. be ok on the rear ... ?

Formula Cura front/rear disc brake 175cm
Depends on how you ride Zimms. Me personally, I like a super powerful front brake and a not so powerful rear brake.
We are all different. What works for me may not work for you.
I am actually running with a Cura 2 pot on the rear with a 203mm rotor and for me, it’s pretty near perfect for the terrain I ride.
If it was more alpine, with super long descents then 4 pots and 203mm or possibly 220mm.
However, for me, it is always good try different set ups as you just don’t know what is going to better or worse unless you actually try them ;)
That is why I just ordered another Cura 4. I know it is probably going to too powerful for my liking but I can easily change down to a 180mm rotor or if necessary drop down further to a 160mm.

To answer you question, the 2 pot is more than powerful enough for me with a 203mm but you may prefer more power depending on what works for you.
 
What have you got on the rear??

Nice Santa Cruz wheels... !!
I am actually running with a Cura 2 pot on the rear with a 203mm rotor and for me, it’s pretty near perfect for the terrain I ride.

Cheers re the Reserve wheels, after watching this video last year it was a not brainer for me really. I figured if Dan Mc can’t break them with tyres on there is not much of a chance I will be able to. If by chance I ever did, there is a Life time warranty on the rims.
 
I just cured my spongy long throw SRAM guides on my expert, by pushing the pads manually all the way back into the Caliper. Then pumping the leaver till the pads meet in the middle. I did this three times then put the original wheel back in and pumped the brakes to reset to the disk. I fine tuned the Caliper using 5he hols to reseat-it in alignment with the disk. Now I don’t have a spongy feel or long leaver travel.
 
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