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Yeti LTE Bosch CX derestriction — what are the options?

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Right, the perennial question. Let's get the boring bit out of the way first, then talk options.

The legal reality

In the UK, an EAPC is limited to 250W nominal assistance cutting out at 15.5mph (25km/h). Derestrict it and the bike legally becomes a motor vehicle requiring registration, MOT, tax, insurance, a number plate, helmet (motorcycle-spec) and a licence. Your insurance is void, your warranty is void, and if you injure someone on a trail or road you're in a world of pain. Trail centres will also ban derestricted bikes — Bike Park Wales and the FC sites are explicit about it.

Lecture over.

The actual options

SpeedBox 3.0 / 3.1 for Bosch CX — plugs inline at the speed sensor. Doubles the perceived speed limit (so 15.5mph cutoff effectively becomes ~31mph). Around £130–150. Activated/deactivated via a button or remote. Bosch's diagnostic tool can detect it has been fitted (tampering flag), which matters for warranty claims.

Badass Box 4 — similar concept, similar price, slightly different activation method. Some riders prefer the remote control versions.

PearTune MSO — newer player, well-regarded for clean integration on Gen 4 and Gen 5 CX motors. More expensive (~£200+) but a tidier install.

What Bosch sees

Modern CX motors (Gen 4 from mid-2020 onwards, and especially Gen 5) log tampering. Even after removing the tuning device, the flag can remain in the ECU. Bosch dealers can and do refuse warranty work when they spot it. Some tuning boxes claim to be "undetectable" — treat that claim with the scepticism it deserves.

Gen 5 specifically

The 2024+ Performance Line CX Gen 5 (the 85Nm one with the updated software) is harder to tune cleanly. Compatibility is improving but check the tuner manufacturer's compatibility list against your exact motor and firmware before buying.

Greg's honest take

For pure trail riding, derestriction is largely pointless — you're rarely sustaining 15.5mph+ on singletrack anyway, and the motor still assists, you just stop getting the boost. Where it actually matters is fire road climbs, commuting sections, and tarmac links between trails. If that's your use case, fine. If you just want to "go faster on the trails", spend the money on better tyres or a coaching day instead.

What's the bike and what are you actually trying to achieve with it?
 
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