Worth going tubeless?

[Beekeeper]

For several years I’ve run tubes with Tannus armour and never had a puncture. Bike is kept outside in a metal bike shed and is exposed to wide fluctuations of temperature throughout the year. Current tyres (Nobby Nics) are perishing and tiny cracks across the surface like crazy paving. I’m assuming this is to do with the oven-like conditions in the bike shed during the summer and sub zero temps in winter.
So I bought some new tyres (Smart Sam). Thinking about trying a tubeless set up with them as I would then lose a lot of weight from not having the heavy Tannus armour or tubes.
My concerns however are..

1) the new tyres are probably not tubeless ready (Schwalbe Smart Sams, but at least my rims are.
2) Apparently sealant only lasts 6 months before it loses effectiveness
3). The wide temperature fluctuations in the bike shed could cause the sealant to dry out quickly and therefore I’ll need add more sealant / remove old sealant etc etc.

My Tannus set up is maintenance free but at a cost of some weight.

Is it really worth the hassle of going tubeless with these new tyres or should I just stick to the tubes and Tannus?

 

[JStrube]

I went tubeless on my MTB almost 20 years ago, and would NEVER put a tube in, unless I had a really bad flat on a ride. Once, I picked up a 16d nail, the other, I actually tore the bead on the tire on volcanic rock.

Tubeless with Tannus will let you run a bit lower pressure as well. It will be cushier than tubes, and tannus, and just as protective. Or, you could just go tubeless altogether. I run the Tannus inserts.

 

[RustyMTB]

Couple of things; you'll probably get more than six months efficacy out of a dose of sealant & it can always be topped up. It won't evaporate, your tires a pretty closed system. Smart Sams don't have a great reputation around here. They were original fitment on the Decathlon Stilus, most of us got rid of them sharpish, did you keep the receipt?

Generally, tubeless is a very good move, it really works well on MTB as noted above & I'd encourage anyone to do it.

 

[mike_kelly]

I went tubeless and it leaks like a sieve. Shop could not figure out why. I have to pump them up before every ride. Going back to tubes.

 

[Plummet]

I went tubeless and it leaks like a sieve. Shop could not figure out why. I have to pump them up before every ride. Going back to tubes.

Unless you have dented rim and porous tires the only place it can be is rim taping.

Its happened to me many time. The fix is to Re-tape the rim and that will fix it.

 

[Plummet]

For several years I’ve run tubes with Tannus armour and never had a puncture. Bike is kept outside in a metal bike shed and is exposed to wide fluctuations of temperature throughout the year. Current tyres (Nobby Nics) are perishing and tiny cracks across the surface like crazy paving. I’m assuming this is to do with the oven-like conditions in the bike shed during the summer and sub zero temps in winter.
So I bought some new tyres (Smart Sam). Thinking about trying a tubeless set up with them as I would then lose a lot of weight from not having the heavy Tannus armour or tubes.
My concerns however are..

1) the new tyres are probably not tubeless ready (Schwalbe Smart Sams, but at least my rims are.
2) Apparently sealant only lasts 6 months before it loses effectiveness
3). The wide temperature fluctuations in the bike shed could cause the sealant to dry out quickly and therefore I’ll need add more sealant / remove old sealant etc etc.

My Tannus set up is maintenance free but at a cost of some weight.

Is it really worth the hassle of going tubeless with these new tyres or should I just stick to the tubes and Tannus?

Tubeless is a pain in the arse. But it does save weight and punctures. It makes for more reliable rides.

I would say if you want to use tubeless, don't scrimp on non tubess tyres. Get the tubless tires.

If I go back to tubes i get too many punctures. So tubless it is for me.

Yes the good does dry out over time. Just pump more in through the valve stem.
I'm off to change 2 tubeles tires right now. Lets see how long it takes.

Starting 3, 2,1 Go!

 

[Plummet]

Tubeless is a pain in the arse. But it does save weight and punctures. It makes for more reliable rides.

I would say if you want to use tubeless, don't scrimp on non tubess tyres. Get the tubless tires.

If I go back to tubes i get too many punctures. So tubless it is for me.

Yes the good does dry out over time. Just pump more in through the valve stem.
I'm off to change 2 tubeles tires right now. Lets see how long it takes.

Starting 3, 2,1 Go!

Done....

Ok j had lunch aswell. And didnt have to fit a tannus in these.

 

[Doug Stampfer]

I have to pump up my tyres with tubes before I go & ride & I have to pump up my tyres with tubeless before I go for a ride. Tubeless is good with gorse apart from that not much difference

 

[Bob Orbea Rise]

Don’t see the point in tubeless as such but do see the benefit of the cushcore element. But they are expensive and are designed around downhill racing and stopping pinch flats mostly? Ive never had a pinch flat but I do get a lot of punctures from thorns. In fact it’s always bloody thorns from hawthorn bushes.

So you still get the punctures it’s just a question of if the sealant works. And after a few months it doesn’t seal. No point as I don’t need the Cush core and the stans sealant is hit and miss.

So I use tubes but use a sealant in them. Weldtite specific for tubes. Cheaper with some protection, and the mess is contained , it does need topping up though… but I’d rather use a tyre with a protective bead in it like the Schwalbe marathon but in a specific Mtb tyre. No idea why that’s not available in a mountain bike tyre. Maybe it’s not flexible enough. But the ones I had on my old bike never flatted on all terrain they were just hopeless in mud obviously.

There still is no ideal answer imo

 

[steve_sordy]

If you run proper tubeless tyres then use a non-latex sealant because it doesn't dry out like latex sealants do. Because you will still get punctures and lose some sealant each time, you will still have to top up the sealant from time to time. The downside of non-latex sealant is that if you use it on no-tubeless tyres it takes longer to seal the tyre walls. You just have to be patient. I leave the wheel/tyre horizontal on a bucket for an hour or so each side (shaking vigorously before each lay down), under at least 40psi to help press the sealant into the tyre wall.

If you run tyres that are not specifically tubeless, then they will probably leak air through the tyre walls. I know, that sounds crazy right? How does air get through a rubber wall? But I have seen air leaking through micro pores in a tyre and foaming the soapy liquid that I had used to get the tyre on the rim. It looked like thousands of white mini volcanoes erupting all over the tyre! Anyway, with tyres that are not tubeless, use a latex sealant because it is much faster at sealing the tyre walls. If the sealant does not run out sooner because of all the punctures you have had, it will dry out over 3-6 months depending upon the climate in your area.

So whichever sealant and tyre combo you use, you will still have to top it up. If you don't keep your eye on it, then you will run out and then get a flat on the trail, and probably blame the sealant! I keep my eye on it by checking tyre pressure before very ride with a digital pressure gauge. Any more than 1-2 psi loss over several days is a sign that the sealant is losing its effectiveness.