What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

Zed

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Feb 26, 2019
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Brisbane, Australia
A question, does everyone here ride a larger tyre on the front than the back ?
Nah. For me I run very similar front and back. I wouldn't run lighter/faster on the back. But I also don't run DH tires as it makes the bike feel kind of sluggish and heavier and my trails don't really demand them.

Assegai Max Terra front, DHR2 dual compound back. Worth noting I'm in Queensland so it's very dry, dusty, gravely and rooty. Excellent combo for here. I'm not sure what else there is to want.

Controversially I'm trying 2.6 and really like it on my Wild FS, suits it's monster truck attitude. As of now I'd be replacing with the same.
 
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DrStupid

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The “not Maxx Speed” version.
Copy That. Good to know the real Forkasters are an option. The version of Forkasters OEM on the Speedfox, were Dual Compound, EXO, and while decent on the dirt, were down right scary on harder surfaces. Compound matters.
 
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carlbiker

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I think this time of year at least for me I couldn’t give a toss about faster rolling resistance but then I also believe it’s better to have your offs going slightly slower than when trying to hit the sound barrier! I had a cracking off I put in my good, bad, ugly video where I was going at an angle on a long rock which I was trying to treat like a berm but I made the error of braking and my rear washed; for a split second I felt like superman as I flew over those bars!

The tyres then I think were just an average compound but had I used my ultra soft Big Betty would the tyre have slid out? Possibly but if it had created enough braking traction (obviously you shouldn’t brake in corners I know) on a slippy rock resulting in less offs then all of a sudden It’s a fantastic prospect Isn’t it?

I really would love to see a comparison video of braking traction on slippy rocks 😃…..Ive not personally tested the theory out as it was summer when I had the Betty and now I’m running MM soft for longer XC runs and Maxxis standard for dry days out to smaller places like Wharncliff without the razor sharp rocks….

The Maxxis does make the bike feel more playful and fun to ride but no way would I trust standard Exo tyres (noticed rusty has those) on a big ride out due to how they puncture.

Interesting to hear Rob mention even the thickness of the Maxxis tyres made a big difference and he can’t get along with DD (My Mary’s are probably similar), it’s probably this reason why I prefer the feel of the Maxxis but you cant have it both ways (hence why I’ve two wheel sets)
 

DrStupid

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I can't consider a casing lighter than DD on the back, and don't care how good the lighter casings feel. If they won't last one week on my bike, I won't buy. Once bitten twice shy.

I prefer riding all season over pushing, so I run a Shorty or Hillbilly rear, for push avoidance.

I don't need that level of traction or casing up front.


This maybe the last ride this season for the Assegai on back.
20211026_103751.jpg


The new shorty is in.

20211026_113944.jpg
 

artzicat1

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i see all are doing well. one of the best thread around
well had a good experience last 7 month with assegai 2.5 3c, heavy use in super dry loose conditions. rear was kiaser really loved the kaiser so after 1600 km switched last week to two kaiser 2.4 so far grip is on par with the assagei roles better rear is easier to drift and control wile drifting but needs higher air pressure front 22 rear 30 i weigh 105kg .
kaiser gets my thumb up got these ember eddition they rip and look cool on my levo
kiaser



386761.jpg
 

Tomsk

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Oct 4, 2021
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Hey tyre gurus, have just got a new bike with a mullet set up. Front is an assagai 29x2.5 which is new to me and am liking a lot, will leave as is. Rear is an 27.5 x2.5 aggressor which I have run before and like, but would like to be bigger: want more climbing and braking traction. Problem is it maxes out at 2.5 width.

All 2.6 maxxis tyres seem to be out of stock in australia at the moment in the thicker casings so am looking at an eddy current rear.

Reading around on the forum threads it sounds like 2.6 eddy currents are narrower than spec.

So am thinking of going 2.8 but will this be too wide for 29mm internal width rims? People seem to complain bout the casing being too firm, so I’m thinking I could get away with it - won’t squirm too much? Any other issues to consider? Will only be ridden in dry and dusty conditions, no mud really :)
 

Zed

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Feb 26, 2019
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Brisbane, Australia
Hey tyre gurus, have just got a new bike with a mullet set up. Front is an assagai 29x2.5 which is new to me and am liking a lot, will leave as is. Rear is an 27.5 x2.5 aggressor which I have run before and like, but would like to be bigger: want more climbing and braking traction. Problem is it maxes out at 2.5 width.

All 2.6 maxxis tyres seem to be out of stock in australia at the moment in the thicker casings so am looking at an eddy current rear.

Reading around on the forum threads it sounds like 2.6 eddy currents are narrower than spec.

So am thinking of going 2.8 but will this be too wide for 29mm internal width rims? People seem to complain bout the casing being too firm, so I’m thinking I could get away with it - won’t squirm too much? Any other issues to consider? Will only be ridden in dry and dusty conditions, no mud really :)
I used 27.5x2.8s a lot on rims with 40mm & 35mm ID on my old Levo. I wouldn't put one on less than 35mm myself, I think it will squirm and be shit generally.
 

Waynemarlow

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35mm ID is good to about minimum on the 2.8's depending on the tyre. All too often we hear 2.8's being slagged by people as being squirmy on lower pressures only to ask what width of rim they are running. Usual answer is " I don't know " and more than often 30mm. Usual get around is higher pressures but then you are defeating the object of getting a wider contact patch.

Rule of thumb if the tyre looks like its too wide for the rim, it is. Equally make sure a 2.8 will fit, not all bikes have that sort of clearance.
 

STATO

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Feb 18, 2020
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35mm ID is good to about minimum on the 2.8's depending on the tyre. All too often we hear 2.8's being slagged by people as being squirmy on lower pressures only to ask what width of rim they are running. Usual answer is " I don't know " and more than often 30mm. Usual get around is higher pressures but then you are defeating the object of getting a wider contact patch.

Rule of thumb if the tyre looks like its too wide for the rim, it is. Equally make sure a 2.8 will fit, not all bikes have that sort of clearance.

I think its also due to plus tyres generally only being available in lighter casings. The size already makes them heavy so most plus riders would not want the extra weight, for ebikes it would probably be worth it. My ebike came with a 27.5x2.8 DHR2 on the rear in EXO+ and i hated it. Swapped to a 29" wheel with 2.3 aggressor and was much happier for most riding. It doesnt have ultimate climbing grip but i dont really use ebike for much tech climbing.
 

Tomsk

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Oct 4, 2021
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From what I’ve read, casing is really stiff, so hoping this may offset the too narrow rim. But that’s all theory obviously. I agree that it doesn’t seem to stack up though.
In a few other threads I’ve read the 2.6 eddy measures closer to 2.4. I’d be better off keeping my current set up if that’s true.

I do have frame clearance to accomodate a 2.8

If they did an aggressor in 2.6 and double down casing I’d buy that and be done with it.

edit: I should add - I have never ridden with 2.8 tyres! happy to experiment though, and kinda makes sense to me with the mullet set up
 

Waynemarlow

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Whenever 2.8 tyres are slagged by an actual decent rider It's 100% because they're SHITE in almost every situation in comparison to a 2.4/2.5 at any sort of decent level/speed. And that's regardless of what rim width they're fitted to, Ebike or normal bike.
But Gary, I would suspect that you with your road background and 95% of people on this forum, including myself are " ordinary " riders. We don't and will never need the ultimate speed setup, we just need comfortable grip that will get us where we want to go, at an ordinary speed, safely.
 

Pascal Funk

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Apr 2, 2020
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France
To ride at Mach 2, it's ok.
But considering my current state of health, I removed the 2 DH22 and will go up to 2 in 27.5 X 3 .00"
Want to try the fattie :)
The 3 "is missing, I wanted some in stock before o in stock

post-295210-0-05843900-1634727869_thumb.jpg
 
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Doomanic

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Nice bait. You realise that if he does respond you can never post in this thread again? :ROFLMAO:
 

Waynemarlow

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Nice bait. You realise that if he does respond you can never post in this thread again? :ROFLMAO:
Said all I want to say, off riding in a mo with some mates, its dark, its goner be muddy, looking foward to a pint on the way home, only sad thing is its on my analogue as 1/2 of them are not convertees yet.

Are we building up to a typical Gary response, its SHITE, its always SHITE and I've changed a 1000 bottom brackets more than you. ;)
 

Pivot

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I have learned that people who attack another person, have typically ran out of logical arguments.

Therefore, the moment you are personally attacked, you have won the intellectual argument and now the losing party is resorting to underhanded tactics.
 

Coolcmsc

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Oct 29, 2019
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Moving on… I hope it’s OK to ask this one about tyre wall wear here 🥳
What does anyone think is going on with the sidewalls of this MAXXIS DHR II 3C DD MaxTerra 27.5 x 2.5?
And,
Is it fine to continue to use the tyre?
This pattern is on both sides and on most of the circumference. It goes from the rim roughly to level with the top of the insert. The writing on the tyre wall is kinda smeared in places towards the rim and the wear is weirdly less there. There’s evidence of sealant congealing on the inside under areas of most wear on the outside. It looks like maybe sealant has leaked through on the outside, but it hasn’t: that’s just the threads in the wall.
I've had a quick Google and it's been noticed for a few years with several manufacturers, especially OEM MAXXIS, but with no concrete explanation. Can’t find anything here. New to me.
The story:
Rear from my Bullit. OEM Tubeless from new with a CushCore insert. Rim: Alu RaceFace ARC 30mm OEM. The tyre has ridden 1000km on a wide variety of U.K. trails from Wharny through The Peak round Hope/Edale/Win Hill, Forrest reds like Dalby/Gisburn and b-parks like Llandegla red/blacks. It has some life left in the tread. It's almost always run at 25psi (never lower than 23psi, never higher than 30psi). It holds air well, (2 weeks to loose ~4psi). I'm 88kg with pack etc.
I think it's probably nothing to worry about, so fine to continue using it, but thoughts welcome. For example, perhaps this shows my pressure is too low, but I don’t understand how that would expose the sidewall nearer the rim to more rubbing than the part further away, except the wear is where the wall is and further out, that’s tread 😊
IMG_3483.jpeg


IMG_3487.jpeg
IMG_3488.jpeg

IMG_3485.jpeg
 
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Gary

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That's just the tyre casing threads showing through the outer layer of sidewall rubber. The layer which covers the sidewalls is pretty thin as its not a contact patch. purposely keeping it a thin layer keeps tyre weight down. Old skool Amber Wall tyres don't even have that layer.
And No. Its nothing to worry about.
 

Gary

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Gary I always find the stupid people are the ones who always want to have the last say in any matter.

Awaiting your reply :cool:
Not nearly as stupid as continually responding and offering advice, opinions, assumptions and just plain making stuff up when you clearly have no clue on the subject matter.

You did ask for a response.
 

Coolcmsc

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Oct 29, 2019
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That's just the tyre casing threads showing through the outer layer of sidewall rubber. The layer which covers the sidewalls is pretty thin as its not a contact patch. purposely keeping it a thin layer keeps tyre weight down. Old skool Amber Wall tyres don't even have that layer.
And No. Its nothing to worry about.
Thanks 🥳
 

Coolcmsc

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Ahdunno, man. I would have thrown that tire out long ago.
HaHa! That plays on my mind, because I do have it’s replacement tucked away on a shelf ready to go (another DHR🥳).
It will go on soon.
But this one’s improving my skills so much….🤣
Seriously tho’, my experience is that the DHR stays predictable as it wears and that’s a key feature for me that’s not always true of tyres that are predictable when new.
Of course it’s not quite as ‘grippy’ now -- mainly in a straight line. Cornering’s as good as ever still, as 2/3 of each nobble (knobble?) is still there.
 

carlbiker

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I can now remove a rear wheel easy, little did I know the mech could be pulled back further 🤣

I might actually do a maxis standard compound vs schwalbe ultra compound braking traction comparison video just to see if there is any slight feckin difference whatsoever……what do you guys reckon, anything in it?

I have so many tyres it’s nuts, rubber fetish!! I do like the smell though 😃
 
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