What did you do to your EBike this week?

steve_sordy said:
The lever felt great in the LBS. Felt great when I set off on my next ride. By the end of the ride, the travel adjust was back at the extreme, my 2nd finger was getting trapped, and this time, pumping the lever made it firmer (ie air in the system). What the hell is it? :unsure:

Left message with the LBS (they tend to use the answerphone on Mondays to crack on with work). I will keep updating.

Looking on the bright side, that means that I don't have a scrap lever assembly after all! :ROFLMAO:
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I'd have them check you haven't cracked a caliper piston when you changed the pads on the trail, as it sounds like it's at that point you started having problems.
 
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Had my rear SLX hub rebuilt under warranty after a lengthy time of dealing with a hard-to-diagnose clunking sound (sounded like loose motor bolts or similar).
LBS were awesome. I did not buy the bike from them, but they dealt with the warranty and Shimano for me and had it been more serious, they were prepared to deal with the shop I bought my bike from, so that there would be no cost.
As it turns out, it was the hub body assembly, which Shimano covered the cost of and I ended up paying about $45 for the time spent.
They also packed it with more grease as the original spec was for there to be minimal grease and Shimano have apparently revised this to state that a good amount of grease is required.
End result? A virtually silent bike, with an almost silent hub.
What a change!
It's amazing the difference a good LBS can make
 
Amber Valley Guy said:
I'd have them check you haven't cracked a caliper piston when you changed the pads on the trail, as it sounds like it's at that point you started having problems.
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Good call, but that was a different bike (you weren't to know). :)
I removed the pads yesterday and used a very bright light for a very close up inspection of the pistons in the calliper, the hose connections, anything that might leak in fact. There was absolutely nothing, not even a hint of any leak.
I took the bike back in yesterday and the LBS guy was as puzzled as me. I mean, what else could it be? The lever assembly has been replaced, and the calliper is as dry as a bone. As unlikely as it sounds, that leaves the hose. It has been in place for over 4 years and most of it is unseen within the frame. But surely, any problem with the hose would manifest itself as air in the system? Baffled. :unsure:
 
steve_sordy said:
Good call, but that was a different bike (you weren't to know). :)
I removed the pads yesterday and used a very bright light for a very close up inspection of the pistons in the calliper, the hose connections, anything that might leak in fact. There was absolutely nothing, not even a hint of any leak.
I took the bike back in yesterday and the LBS guy was as puzzled as me. I mean, what else could it be? The lever assembly has been replaced, and the calliper is as dry as a bone. As unlikely as it sounds, that leaves the hose. It has been in place for over 4 years and most of it is unseen within the frame. But surely, any problem with the hose would manifest itself as air in the system? Baffled. :unsure:
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I had a tiny, tiny pinhole on an old set of Avids back in the day
 
so....

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fork service & tune time.

to explain the 'tuning' as mentioned

What did you buy your ebike this week?

a new amflow Thats what I dd for my ebike Bought it a brother a Amflow PL pro new tires a must and grips, and 220 rotor for rear a must, and all my small Orange parts ;)
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com

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anyway, damper stripped out of the lower-leg and now draining ready for a deeper dig and rebuild 😎
 
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After a mishap earlier in the summer, my thumb needed surgery.

I then proceeded to talk myself into a new fork. Said fork needed a front wheel with a big axle, so I talked myself into a new carbon wheel (to partially offset the weight of the fork)(very partially). After waiting a while for the fork to be back in stock and the wheel to be built, I took the bike home. Not having ridden in about a month and a half, I took it out for a cruise around the neighborhood. Just a few rocks and curbs. Well, on the second curb I pulled for, the left grip came off in my hand. That get-off was the best yet, not a scratch. Looking at the piece of grip revealed that it was not just the grip but the whole bar that broke, outboard of the brake lever, which I found on the ground. Brake lever assembly, new bar, and a fox neo trigger was the damage. Another week and and a half waiting for brake assembly, non matching, but who cares, and it’s back…without the trigger for the dropper. Coming soon from fox, maybe. I’ve still got the stub that works so-so and that’ll have to do for now. Need a credit limit upgrade and a new supply of patience.

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Ref the rear brake problem that I've been having since August. See first post on the topic 1st Sep post No #1018.

The new lever assembly seemed to have fixed the problem, with a convincing explanation as to why. Felt great, but didn't last one ride before it was back to how it was initially. That just leaves the hose and the calliper. The hose is over 4 years old and may be in shit order hidden away inside the frame. But surely if it had any actual problems, they would manifest themselves in leaks, spongy levers etc? And the calliper was bone dry, no cracked pistons, was working well etc. So what could it be? The LBS guy dealt with what he couldn't see. The lever assembly and the calliper looked absolutely fine. So he replaced the hose and it was better. But in his opinion not better enough! So, despite not seeing any problems with the Shimano BR M8120 (XT) calliper, and without much confidence he replaced it with the brand-new spare (inc pads) that I had from my previous emtb, a Shimano BR M520 (Deore).

And that fixed the problem. He is as mystified as I am. I rode the bike today and I was expecting a return of the issue, but no, it was spot on and remained so. :)

The critical summary is that every part was replaced until the problem went away. But what else can you do when the diagnostic process fails to provide a solution? :unsure:
 
steve_sordy said:
Ref the rear brake problem that I've been having since August. See first post on the topic 1st Sep post No #1018.

The new lever assembly seemed to have fixed the problem, with a convincing explanation as to why. Felt great, but didn't last one ride before it was back to how it was initially. That just leaves the hose and the calliper. The hose is over 4 years old and may be in shit order hidden away inside the frame. But surely if it had any actual problems, they would manifest themselves in leaks, spongy levers etc? And the calliper was bone dry, no cracked pistons, was working well etc. So what could it be? The LBS guy dealt with what he couldn't see. The lever assembly and the calliper looked absolutely fine. So he replaced the hose and it was better. But in his opinion not better enough! So, despite not seeing any problems with the Shimano BR M8120 (XT) calliper, and without much confidence he replaced it with the brand-new spare (inc pads) that I had from my previous emtb, a Shimano BR M520 (Deore).

And that fixed the problem. He is as mystified as I am. I rode the bike today and I was expecting a return of the issue, but no, it was spot on and remained so. :)

The critical summary is that every part was replaced until the problem went away. But what else can you do when the diagnostic process fails to provide a solution? :unsure:
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The only thing I can think of is something like a damaged o ring or debris in the oil bolt that passes through the banjo on the rear XT caliper. The M520 rear caliper doesn't have a banjo and oil bolt, instead it's a simple straight entry into the caliper. Seeing as your shop changed the BH90 banjo hose for the XT8120 I'm guessing they used the original bolt and o ring, which might be worth checking.
 
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Amber Valley Guy said:
The only thing I can think of is something like a damaged o ring or debris in the oil bolt that passes through the banjo on the rear XT caliper. The M520 rear caliper doesn't have a banjo and oil bolt, instead it's a simple straight entry into the caliper. Seeing as your shop changed the BH90 banjo hose for the XT8120 I'm guessing they used the original bolt and o ring, which might be worth checking.
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I will discuss this with the LBS and it will be interesting to hear his response.
 
Before I contacted the LBS, I thought I'd better check the bike first.

Here is the BR-M520. Showing the hose going straight ito the calliper body.
Brake Calliper BR-M520.jpg


And here is the BR-M8120, showing the hose going into a banjo that has the oil bolt going through it, entering the calliper body at right angles.
Brake Calliper BR-8120.jpg


From these pictures and your post (which I wasn't sure that I understood at the time of reading), your proposal is that when the brakes were first "fixed", the BR-8120 calliper was not touched. This would be why the problem recurred if it was the banjo etc that was at fault. Any improvement seen at first would have been the result of a fresh bleed.

Subsequently, when the BR-8120 calliper was replaced with the banjo-free BR-M520, the fault was removed along with the banjo!

That would certainly fit the circumstances. Have I summarised your proposal correctly?

The only benefit that I can see from the banjo and oil-bolt design is that it would allow for a better route for the hose in to the calliper in all circumstances.
 
steve_sordy said:
Before I contacted the LBS, I thought I'd better check the bike first.

Here is the BR-M520. Showing the hose going straight ito the calliper body.
View attachment 168734

And here is the BR-M8120, showing the hose going into a banjo that has the oil bolt going through it, entering the calliper body at right angles.
View attachment 168735

From these pictures and your post (which I wasn't sure that I understood at the time of reading), your proposal is that when the brakes were first "fixed", the BR-8120 calliper was not touched. This would be why the problem recurred if it was the banjo etc that was at fault. Any improvement seen at first would have been the result of a fresh bleed.

Subsequently, when the BR-8120 calliper was replaced with the banjo-free BR-M520, the fault was removed along with the banjo!

That would certainly fit the circumstances. Have I summarised your proposal correctly?

The only benefit that I can see from the banjo and oil-bolt design is that it would allow for a better route for the hose in to the calliper in all circumstances.
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Yes, probably not the banjo itself (as your shop fitted a new hose and they come pre-installed) but the oil bolt MIGHT have a damaged o ring, or a piece of debris in it (depending if it's the waisted type or cross drilled type of oil bolt) or a slight score/scratch on it, letting a little air in but not fluid out (when you apply the brake, the fluid/oil will pressurise forcing the o ring to seal, but when the brake is released, relaxes a bad o ring and allowing a tiny amount of air in) Dead easy fix, new o ring(s) or new bolt and o rings.
And yes the banjo assembly is only there to get a more compliant hose line instead of the straight entry found on the M520. Worth taking a look and inspecting.
 
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BAh30 said:
retraced the pins on my pedals 2 turns to appease the many gashs i have in my shins..
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The first thing I do to new pedals is to remove the leading pin both sides. They are the ones that tended to go down the length of the shin bone. I can do without that! :eek:
Second thing is to always wear knee & shin guards! :ROFLMAO:
 
irie said:
Hope you got a decent bit in before it shat itself?
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so, the bike has covered 250 miles from new / 14 months BUT thats including me stopping riding end of august last year & Canyon's battery issue on theseo_O

Monday's ride lasted ~10 miles but that included a 'no pedal' t2b run @ bpw so (-2 1/2 miles) whereas I usually get ~25 miles pedalup/down there in a day:p

Rich.
 
Zed. said:
so, the bike has covered 250 miles from new / 14 months BUT thats including me stopping riding end of august last year & Canyon's battery issue on theseo_O

Monday's ride lasted ~10 miles but that included a 'no pedal' t2b run @ bpw so (-2 1/2 miles) whereas I usually get ~25 miles pedalup/down there in a day:p

Rich.
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2-1/2 miles, feck! :(
 
Finally had all my bits and bobs installed:
XT Di2 shifter
XT Di2 Derailleur
Fox 170mm airshaft

Then had an aircan service (rear shock) to go with the lowers service on the fork

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I went down the canal towpath for about 17 miles to Lake Leisure Bikes in Breaston (between Derby and Nottingham), then back again. Vertical around 10 metres. Probably the most boring ride ever, and a complete waste of a full sus emtb, not recommended. And the bike shop had nothing in that caught my eye (ok, wallet).
 
Amber Valley Guy said:
I went down the canal towpath for about 17 miles to Lake Leisure Bikes in Breaston (between Derby and Nottingham), then back again. Vertical around 10 metres. Probably the most boring ride ever, and a complete waste of a full sus emtb, not recommended. And the bike shop had nothing in that caught my eye (ok, wallet).
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Better than a good day in the office though? :)
 
I hit 10 000km on my gen4 cx last week (in 1,5 year),it was getting bit noisier on the rough stuff, i decided to open it up, and re grease it. Looks like it got a little bit water ingress. Didn't took any picture afterwards, but I used a hefty amount Motorex white grease on the cogs, and the clunking noise is barely noticeable anymore. Also replaced the bearing protection rings.

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Since i bought the used Kenevo, i felt the overrun was inconsistent, and too long in Turbo mode, ordered new sprag bearings, and replaced them. It feels pretty normal now.

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new dropper cable time for the Norco, also swapped the Oneup v2 180mm post for the same in 200mm (might shim it down to 190mm but thats to be decided when riding :unsure: )

also swapping the Canyon's forks from the Manitou Mezzer (singlecrown, 180mm travel) for Manitou Dorado (twincrown, 200mm travel) so both the Norco and Canyon will run the same front & rear suspension......

untill I want to go back to singlecrown for trail riding:p


AND....

the Canyon had SRAM X0 Transmission derailer setup and on sunday it decided to gain autoshift capabilities🤬🤬🤬
so fitting another t-type derailer as stopgap untill warranty has been done....

(^^not bad for a bike that covered 200 miles from new before Canyon's battery thing so had a year unridden & now on 250miles😧)
 
Had a 170mm air shaft fitted to my fork and also had XT Di2 (8150) fitted as mentioned in an earlier post.
Went for the maiden voyage yesterday and it was like a completely different bike!
Autoshift is not for me, but Freeshift is amazing.
The extra 10mm of fork travel really surprised me. I dropped the pressure a touch and added slightly more sag, half expecting there to be little to no difference, but I got exactly what I was after - plush, deep feeling travel that almost feels like a DH rig when pointing it down a chunky descent and going for a “rip and grip” kind of ride.
Also felt unnaturally smooth on the jump trails too.
 
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