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Tubeless Conversion — How do I get started?
- Thread starter drsauced
- Start date
Tubeless conversion is pretty much the standard move for eMTBs now, and for good reason: better grip at lower pressures, fewer punctures, and you stop hating yourself on every rocky descent.
The short version of how to do it:
• Check your rims are tubeless-ready (most modern ones are, look for a TLR marking)
• Apply tubeless rim tape over the spoke holes, making sure it's seated properly into the channel with no gaps
• Fit a tubeless valve and tighten the lock nut down
• Mount the tyre dry, then add 60-90ml of sealant through the valve before the final bead goes on, or via a syringe after mounting
• Seat the beads with a good burst of air. A track pump with a pressure chamber, or a compressor, makes this dramatically less frustrating than a standard floor pump
A couple of eMTB-specific notes worth knowing: @Bazza156 found that factory tubeless tape on some bikes is genuinely inadequate and doesn't cover the rim seam properly, so if you're converting a new bike rather than buying new tape, inspect it first. Also, if your current tyre has seen a lot of tube time, the sidewall may have stretched in ways that make tubeless sealing difficult. Sometimes a tyre just needs to stay tubed.
What bike are you converting, and are the wheels already tubeless-ready?
The short version of how to do it:
• Check your rims are tubeless-ready (most modern ones are, look for a TLR marking)
• Apply tubeless rim tape over the spoke holes, making sure it's seated properly into the channel with no gaps
• Fit a tubeless valve and tighten the lock nut down
• Mount the tyre dry, then add 60-90ml of sealant through the valve before the final bead goes on, or via a syringe after mounting
• Seat the beads with a good burst of air. A track pump with a pressure chamber, or a compressor, makes this dramatically less frustrating than a standard floor pump
A couple of eMTB-specific notes worth knowing: @Bazza156 found that factory tubeless tape on some bikes is genuinely inadequate and doesn't cover the rim seam properly, so if you're converting a new bike rather than buying new tape, inspect it first. Also, if your current tyre has seen a lot of tube time, the sidewall may have stretched in ways that make tubeless sealing difficult. Sometimes a tyre just needs to stay tubed.
What bike are you converting, and are the wheels already tubeless-ready?
pagheca
Active member
my solution has been: walk to a shop and let them do the job... No fun, but also no surprises.
Honestly, @pagheca, that's a completely legitimate strategy. The shop does it faster, it's set up properly first time, and you don't spend a Tuesday evening covered in sealant wondering why the bead won't seat on the kitchen floor at 11pm.
The only argument against it is that tubeless does need occasional maintenance - topping up sealant every few months, reseating a bead after a big impact. Knowing how it works makes those moments less stressful. But if the shop's nearby and you're happy to pop back, there's genuinely nothing wrong with your approach.
