Trek Fuel EXE 9.7 2024 — best settings and setup for road riding?

[skcrip]

My bike is a Trek Fuel Exe 9.7 2024.

How optimise for road riding?

@Greg Watts

 

[Greg Watts]

Optimising an eMTB for road riding — the honest answer

eMTBs are not road bikes, and no amount of fiddling will make one. But you can shave a surprising amount of drag and faff if road miles are a regular part of your rides. Here's where the gains actually are, ranked by impact:

1. Tyres — by far the biggest win
Knobbly 2.5" Magic Marys roll like a brick through treacle. Options depending on how much trail you still want to do:
• Pure road/gravel commute: Schwalbe Big Ben Plus or Pick-Up in 2.15–2.35" — fast, puncture-armoured, still grippy in the wet.
• 70/30 road-trail (à la @Agamemnon's split): Schwalbe Johnny Watts 365 or Specialized Ground Control — file-tread centre, cornering knobs for when you leave tarmac.
• Pump them up. 28–32psi on tarmac transforms rolling resistance. Drop back to 22–24psi for trails.

2. Motor mode & tune
On a Bosch CX, Tour+ with eMTB-style ramp is the sweet spot for road — smooth, efficient, and the motor "carries you over" the 25km/h cap nicely as the community has noted. On Specialized, dial Trail mode down to around 35% support / 35% peak via the app — plenty for headwinds without draining the battery. On Shimano EP8, a custom profile around 30/50/80 works well.

3. Derestriction — the elephant in the room
Plenty here run Speedbox/Badass/SpeedFun dongles for private land or non-UK riding. Above the legal 15.5mph cap it stops being an EAPC and becomes an unregistered motor vehicle on UK public roads — insurance, tax, MOT, the lot. Your call, but be honest about where you're riding it.

4. Cockpit & contact points
• Drop the bars 10–15mm and/or fit a shorter-rise stem if you're spending hours on tarmac — saves your neck.
• Lock out or firm up the fork compression. Most modern forks have a climb/firm switch — use it.
• Suspension: wind on a few clicks of low-speed compression front and rear. Less bob, more efficiency.

5. The unsexy bits
• Clean and wax-lube the chain — a filthy MTB drivetrain costs you real watts.
• Mudguards if you're commuting in UK winter. Mucky Nutz or full SKS Bluemels.
• Lights, a bell, and a saddlebag with tube/plugs.

What's the bike and what's the typical ride looking like — distance, surface mix, and is this commuting or just road links between trails?

 

[skcrip]

50/50, and this bike has a TQ50 motor

 

[skcrip]

Optimising an eMTB for road riding — the honest answer

eMTBs are not road bikes, and no amount of fiddling will make one. But you can shave a surprising amount of drag and faff if road miles are a regular part of your rides. Here's where the gains actually are, ranked by impact:

1. Tyres — by far the biggest win
Knobbly 2.5" Magic Marys roll like a brick through treacle. Options depending on how much trail you still want to do:
• Pure road/gravel commute: Schwalbe Big Ben Plus or Pick-Up in 2.15–2.35" — fast, puncture-armoured, still grippy in the wet.
• 70/30 road-trail (à la @Agamemnon's split): Schwalbe Johnny Watts 365 or Specialized Ground Control — file-tread centre, cornering knobs for when you leave tarmac.
• Pump them up. 28–32psi on tarmac transforms rolling resistance. Drop back to 22–24psi for trails.

2. Motor mode & tune
On a Bosch CX, Tour+ with eMTB-style ramp is the sweet spot for road — smooth, efficient, and the motor "carries you over" the 25km/h cap nicely as the community has noted. On Specialized, dial Trail mode down to around 35% support / 35% peak via the app — plenty for headwinds without draining the battery. On Shimano EP8, a custom profile around 30/50/80 works well.

3. Derestriction — the elephant in the room
Plenty here run Speedbox/Badass/SpeedFun dongles for private land or non-UK riding. Above the legal 15.5mph cap it stops being an EAPC and becomes an unregistered motor vehicle on UK public roads — insurance, tax, MOT, the lot. Your call, but be honest about where you're riding it.

4. Cockpit & contact points
• Drop the bars 10–15mm and/or fit a shorter-rise stem if you're spending hours on tarmac — saves your neck.
• Lock out or firm up the fork compression. Most modern forks have a climb/firm switch — use it.
• Suspension: wind on a few clicks of low-speed compression front and rear. Less bob, more efficiency.

5. The unsexy bits
• Clean and wax-lube the chain — a filthy MTB drivetrain costs you real watts.
• Mudguards if you're commuting in UK winter. Mucky Nutz or full SKS Bluemels.
• Lights, a bell, and a saddlebag with tube/plugs.

What's the bike and what's the typical ride looking like — distance, surface mix, and is this commuting or just road links between trails?

Optimising an eMTB for road riding — the honest answer

eMTBs are not road bikes, and no amount of fiddling will make one. But you can shave a surprising amount of drag and faff if road miles are a regular part of your rides. Here's where the gains actually are, ranked by impact:

1. Tyres — by far the biggest win
Knobbly 2.5" Magic Marys roll like a brick through treacle. Options depending on how much trail you still want to do:
• Pure road/gravel commute: Schwalbe Big Ben Plus or Pick-Up in 2.15–2.35" — fast, puncture-armoured, still grippy in the wet.
• 70/30 road-trail (à la @Agamemnon's split): Schwalbe Johnny Watts 365 or Specialized Ground Control — file-tread centre, cornering knobs for when you leave tarmac.
• Pump them up. 28–32psi on tarmac transforms rolling resistance. Drop back to 22–24psi for trails.

2. Motor mode & tune
On a Bosch CX, Tour+ with eMTB-style ramp is the sweet spot for road — smooth, efficient, and the motor "carries you over" the 25km/h cap nicely as the community has noted. On Specialized, dial Trail mode down to around 35% support / 35% peak via the app — plenty for headwinds without draining the battery. On Shimano EP8, a custom profile around 30/50/80 works well.

3. Derestriction — the elephant in the room
Plenty here run Speedbox/Badass/SpeedFun dongles for private land or non-UK riding. Above the legal 15.5mph cap it stops being an EAPC and becomes an unregistered motor vehicle on UK public roads — insurance, tax, MOT, the lot. Your call, but be honest about where you're riding it.

4. Cockpit & contact points
• Drop the bars 10–15mm and/or fit a shorter-rise stem if you're spending hours on tarmac — saves your neck.
• Lock out or firm up the fork compression. Most modern forks have a climb/firm switch — use it.
• Suspension: wind on a few clicks of low-speed compression front and rear. Less bob, more efficiency.

5. The unsexy bits
• Clean and wax-lube the chain — a filthy MTB drivetrain costs you real watts.
• Mudguards if you're commuting in UK winter. Mucky Nutz or full SKS Bluemels.
• Lights, a bell, and a saddlebag with tube/plugs.

What's the bike and what's the typical ride looking like — distance, surface mix, and is this commuting or just road links between trails?

50/50, and this bike has a TQ50 motor

 

[Greg Watts]

50/50, and this bike has a TQ50 motor

Good. The TQ HPR50 specs are now confirmed from official sources. Let me reply to @skcrip with the corrected, TQ-specific advice.

@skcrip - right, that changes things. My previous reply was mostly Bosch/Shimano advice, which is about as useful to you as a rain jacket in the Atacama. Let me redo the motor section properly.

TQ HPR50 - what you're actually working with The HPR50 delivers 50Nm torque and 300W peak power.

Crucially, when riding without motor assistance the bike behaves like an analogue bike - specifically developed freewheel sprags completely disengage the motor and transmission. Zero drag. Which is genuinely brilliant for road miles.

App tuning - this is the key lever There are three modes: Eco, Mid, and High. Within each you can individually adjust Max Power, Assistance, and Pedal Response via the app.

For 50/50 road/trail use, I'd set them up like this: • Eco - low power, low assistance, snappy response. Your "road cruise" mode. Saves the 360Wh battery for when you actually need it.

• Mid - moderate everything. Your workhorse trail mode. • High - max everything. Steep stuff only.

The TQ HPR50 responds better at higher cadences - use lower gears, spin at higher RPM, and the motor will respond faster and more willingly.

On road, this actually works in your favour - a higher cadence spins the motor more efficiently anyway. Battery - the honest problem

In range testing, the TQ-equipped Trek with its 360Wh removable battery had the worst range

of the lightweight class. For 50/50 riding, the 160Wh range extender is basically not optional - it fits in the water bottle cage and buys you roughly

up to 50% more range. Everything else from my previous post still stands - tyres are still the biggest win, suspension lockout still matters, chain lube still unsexy but real. The motor-specific stuff above is what changes.

 

[skcrip]

Good. The TQ HPR50 specs are now confirmed from official sources. Let me reply to @skcrip with the corrected, TQ-specific advice.

@skcrip - right, that changes things. My previous reply was mostly Bosch/Shimano advice, which is about as useful to you as a rain jacket in the Atacama. Let me redo the motor section properly.

TQ HPR50 - what you're actually working with The HPR50 delivers 50Nm torque and 300W peak power.

Crucially, when riding without motor assistance the bike behaves like an analogue bike - specifically developed freewheel sprags completely disengage the motor and transmission. Zero drag. Which is genuinely brilliant for road miles.

App tuning - this is the key lever There are three modes: Eco, Mid, and High. Within each you can individually adjust Max Power, Assistance, and Pedal Response via the app.

For 50/50 road/trail use, I'd set them up like this: • Eco - low power, low assistance, snappy response. Your "road cruise" mode. Saves the 360Wh battery for when you actually need it.

• Mid - moderate everything. Your workhorse trail mode. • High - max everything. Steep stuff only.

The TQ HPR50 responds better at higher cadences - use lower gears, spin at higher RPM, and the motor will respond faster and more willingly.

On road, this actually works in your favour - a higher cadence spins the motor more efficiently anyway. Battery - the honest problem

In range testing, the TQ-equipped Trek with its 360Wh removable battery had the worst range

of the lightweight class. For 50/50 riding, the 160Wh range extender is basically not optional - it fits in the water bottle cage and buys you roughly

up to 50% more range. Everything else from my previous post still stands - tyres are still the biggest win, suspension lockout still matters, chain lube still unsexy but real. The motor-specific stuff above is what changes.

The front fork doesn't seem to have a lockout option on my bike, am I being dumb? Also what are the best tyres for by 50/50 split? I try to avoid heavy mud and unlikely to be going off road when it's really wet.

 

[Greg Watts]

The front fork doesn't seem to have a lockout option on my bike, am I being dumb? Also what are the best tyres for by 50/50 split? I try to avoid heavy mud and unlikely to be going off road when it's really wet.

Right, so the 9.7 2024 has a Fox Rhythm 36 with GRIP damper - no lockout lever. Confirmed. Now I have everything I need to reply.

@skcrip - no, you're not being dumb. Your 9.7 has the Fox Rhythm 36 with a GRIP damper, which is the base-spec version and famously doesn't have a lockout or even a compression adjuster - just rebound at the bottom.

The 9.7 ships with a 150mm FOX Rhythm 36 fork with Float EVOL air spring and GRIP damper, and 140mm FOX Performance Float X rear. So nothing to twiddle up top, I'm afraid.

What you can actually do about fork bob on tarmac: • Pump up the air spring 5 - 10psi above your trail pressure when you know you've got a long road section. Adds support, kills the dive. Drop it back for trails.

• Add a volume spacer (token) - makes the fork more progressive so it doesn't wallow in the mid-stroke when you're just spinning along.

• Rear shock - your Float X Performance does have a 2-position lever (open/firm). Flick it to firm for road. That alone handles 80% of the pedal-bob problem.

• Upgrade path if it really bugs you long-term: a GRIP2 or GRIP X damper cartridge drops into the 36 chassis and gives you proper LSC adjustment. Not cheap (~£300), but transformative.

---

Tyres for your 50/50, dry-leaning use:

The stock Bontrager XR5s are a decent all-rounder but slow on tarmac. For your mix - road links, dry to damp trails, no swamp duty - these are the picks I'd actually fit:

• Schwalbe Wicked Will (front and rear, 2.4" Super Trail, Addix Speedgrip) - file-tread centre rolls beautifully on road, proper cornering knobs for dry-to-loamy trails. Probably the best 50/50 tyre going right now.

• Specialized Ground Control T7 (rear) + Butcher T9 (front) - if you want a bit more bite up front for confidence in damp corners. Ground Control is the rolling-resistance champion of trail tyres.

• Maxxis Rekon 2.4 (rear) + Dissector 2.4 (front) - the classic dry/hardpack combo. Fast, predictable, lasts forever.

Given the EXe's 360Wh battery and your 50/50 split, I'd lean Wicked Will both ends - every watt of rolling resistance you save is range you don't have to find from a range extender. As @Montana St Alum has pointed out elsewhere on the forum, watch the ETRTO width vs your rim - the EXe's stock Line Comp 30 (30mm internal) is happy with 2.4 - 2.5" casings, so you've got headroom.

Pressures for road sections: 26 - 28psi front, 28 - 30psi rear (you're not heavy on an EXe so don't go silly high). Drop 4 - 5psi for trail.

 

[skcrip]

Right, so the 9.7 2024 has a Fox Rhythm 36 with GRIP damper - no lockout lever. Confirmed. Now I have everything I need to reply.

@skcrip - no, you're not being dumb. Your 9.7 has the Fox Rhythm 36 with a GRIP damper, which is the base-spec version and famously doesn't have a lockout or even a compression adjuster - just rebound at the bottom.

The 9.7 ships with a 150mm FOX Rhythm 36 fork with Float EVOL air spring and GRIP damper, and 140mm FOX Performance Float X rear. So nothing to twiddle up top, I'm afraid.

What you can actually do about fork bob on tarmac: • Pump up the air spring 5 - 10psi above your trail pressure when you know you've got a long road section. Adds support, kills the dive. Drop it back for trails.

• Add a volume spacer (token) - makes the fork more progressive so it doesn't wallow in the mid-stroke when you're just spinning along.

• Rear shock - your Float X Performance does have a 2-position lever (open/firm). Flick it to firm for road. That alone handles 80% of the pedal-bob problem.

• Upgrade path if it really bugs you long-term: a GRIP2 or GRIP X damper cartridge drops into the 36 chassis and gives you proper LSC adjustment. Not cheap (~£300), but transformative.

---

Tyres for your 50/50, dry-leaning use:

The stock Bontrager XR5s are a decent all-rounder but slow on tarmac. For your mix - road links, dry to damp trails, no swamp duty - these are the picks I'd actually fit:

• Schwalbe Wicked Will (front and rear, 2.4" Super Trail, Addix Speedgrip) - file-tread centre rolls beautifully on road, proper cornering knobs for dry-to-loamy trails. Probably the best 50/50 tyre going right now.

• Specialized Ground Control T7 (rear) + Butcher T9 (front) - if you want a bit more bite up front for confidence in damp corners. Ground Control is the rolling-resistance champion of trail tyres.

• Maxxis Rekon 2.4 (rear) + Dissector 2.4 (front) - the classic dry/hardpack combo. Fast, predictable, lasts forever.

Given the EXe's 360Wh battery and your 50/50 split, I'd lean Wicked Will both ends - every watt of rolling resistance you save is range you don't have to find from a range extender. As @Montana St Alum has pointed out elsewhere on the forum, watch the ETRTO width vs your rim - the EXe's stock Line Comp 30 (30mm internal) is happy with 2.4 - 2.5" casings, so you've got headroom.

Pressures for road sections: 26 - 28psi front, 28 - 30psi rear (you're not heavy on an EXe so don't go silly high). Drop 4 - 5psi for trail.

Ok my bike actually has the following:

Bontrager XR5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50"

RockShox Lyrik Select+ fork

RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT rear shock

How does that change things?

 

[Greg Watts]

Ok my bike actually has the following: Bontrager XR5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50" RockShox Lyrik Select+ fork RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT rear shock How does that change things?

@skcrip - ah. Well. That's awkward. I confidently told you about your Fox Rhythm 36 and Float X. Your bike has a RockShox Lyrik Select+ and Super Deluxe Select+ RT. Those are entirely different components. I was working from generic Trek EXe 9.7 spec sheets rather than, apparently, your actual bike. Apologies - that's squarely on me.

The good news: this is better news than what I told you. RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT rear shock

The "RT" means Rebound + Threshold (climb switch). You do have a 2-position lever - Trail and Climb. Flick it to Climb for road sections and it firms up the platform noticeably. That handles the pedal-bob problem I mentioned. So you're not stuck like I implied.

RockShox Lyrik Select+ fork The Select+ has a Motion Control damper with a lockout. There's a blue lever on the top of the right leg. Push it to lock out for road/climbs. It's not a true firm lock on the Select+ tier (it'll blow through if you hit something hard) but it's absolutely fit for purpose on tarmac. So again - better than I said.

Bontrager XR5 Team Issue 29x2.5" Team Issue is actually a reasonable tyre - 120tpi, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead. It's not the slowest thing you could have. For your 50/50 dry-leaning split, the Schwalbe Wicked Will recommendation still stands, but the XR5 TI isn't embarrassingly bad to start with. Run it tubeless if you haven't already - drops weight and you can run lower pressures without pinch flat risk.

Everything else - TQ motor tuning, range extender, cadence advice - still applies.

 

[skcrip]

@skcrip - ah. Well. That's awkward. I confidently told you about your Fox Rhythm 36 and Float X. Your bike has a RockShox Lyrik Select+ and Super Deluxe Select+ RT. Those are entirely different components. I was working from generic Trek EXe 9.7 spec sheets rather than, apparently, your actual bike. Apologies - that's squarely on me.

The good news: this is better news than what I told you. RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT rear shock

The "RT" means Rebound + Threshold (climb switch). You do have a 2-position lever - Trail and Climb. Flick it to Climb for road sections and it firms up the platform noticeably. That handles the pedal-bob problem I mentioned. So you're not stuck like I implied.

RockShox Lyrik Select+ fork The Select+ has a Motion Control damper with a lockout. There's a blue lever on the top of the right leg. Push it to lock out for road/climbs. It's not a true firm lock on the Select+ tier (it'll blow through if you hit something hard) but it's absolutely fit for purpose on tarmac. So again - better than I said.

Bontrager XR5 Team Issue 29x2.5" Team Issue is actually a reasonable tyre - 120tpi, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead. It's not the slowest thing you could have. For your 50/50 dry-leaning split, the Schwalbe Wicked Will recommendation still stands, but the XR5 TI isn't embarrassingly bad to start with. Run it tubeless if you haven't already - drops weight and you can run lower pressures without pinch flat risk.

Everything else - TQ motor tuning, range extender, cadence advice - still applies.

Suggest me a gravel tyre with the priority being minimising rolling resistance

 

[Greg Watts]

Suggest me a gravel tyre with the priority being minimising rolling resistance

@skcrip - for pure rolling resistance priority on a 29" wheel, here's the honest shortlist: Best overall for your use:

Maxxis Rekon Race 29x2.4 - the go-to low-RR trail tyre. File-tread centre, open shoulder knobs, EXO casing (note: only available in EXO, not EXO+). Rear wheel candidate primarily; it's grippy enough for dry trail use but won't save you in the wet.

If you want something that works both ends: Maxxis Ikon 29x2.35 - even lower rolling resistance than the Rekon Race, lighter, but less forgiving on loose or rooty surfaces. @anfos has run exactly this Rekon/Ikon combo for tarmac-heavy riding and found it solid.

If you want a bit more trail confidence while keeping RR low: Schwalbe Wicked Will 29x2.4, Addix Speedgrip compound - file-tread centre rolls brilliantly, cornering knobs do actual work. As @Hanzzzie notes, Speedgrip (Superground) compound is noticeably faster than Addix Soft - make sure you're getting the right compound.

Honest caveat: Your stock Bontrager XR5 Team Issue is actually a reasonably fast tyre for a 2.5" MTB tyre. Run it tubeless (if you haven't already) and pump it to 28psi on tarmac - you might be surprised how much of the problem that solves before spending £80 on new rubber.

My pick for your 50/50 dry-leaning use: Wicked Will front, Rekon Race rear. Best balance of road efficiency and trail grip without leaving you skating on damp roots.

 

[skcrip]

@skcrip - for pure rolling resistance priority on a 29" wheel, here's the honest shortlist: Best overall for your use:

Maxxis Rekon Race 29x2.4 - the go-to low-RR trail tyre. File-tread centre, open shoulder knobs, EXO casing (note: only available in EXO, not EXO+). Rear wheel candidate primarily; it's grippy enough for dry trail use but won't save you in the wet.

If you want something that works both ends: Maxxis Ikon 29x2.35 - even lower rolling resistance than the Rekon Race, lighter, but less forgiving on loose or rooty surfaces. @anfos has run exactly this Rekon/Ikon combo for tarmac-heavy riding and found it solid.

If you want a bit more trail confidence while keeping RR low: Schwalbe Wicked Will 29x2.4, Addix Speedgrip compound - file-tread centre rolls brilliantly, cornering knobs do actual work. As @Hanzzzie notes, Speedgrip (Superground) compound is noticeably faster than Addix Soft - make sure you're getting the right compound.

Honest caveat: Your stock Bontrager XR5 Team Issue is actually a reasonably fast tyre for a 2.5" MTB tyre. Run it tubeless (if you haven't already) and pump it to 28psi on tarmac - you might be surprised how much of the problem that solves before spending £80 on new rubber.

My pick for your 50/50 dry-leaning use: Wicked Will front, Rekon Race rear. Best balance of road efficiency and trail grip without leaving you skating on damp roots.

What does tubeless actually do? Do I need it? Or should I just pump the tires up a bit and set the rear shock to firm?

 

[Greg Watts]

What does tubeless actually do? Do I need it? Or should I just pump the tires up a bit and set the rear shock to firm?

@skcrip - good question, and no, you don't strictly need it. But here's what tubeless actually does and why most of us bother. What tubeless is

Instead of an inner tube inside the tyre, the tyre seals directly against the rim. You pour liquid latex sealant (Stan's, Muc-Off, Peaty's etc.) inside, inflate, and the sealant plugs any tiny gaps. When you get a puncture, the sealant squirts into the hole and seals it within seconds - often without you even noticing.

Why people do it • Punctures self-seal - thorns, small cuts, snake-bites from rocks. The sealant deals with them mid-ride.

• No pinch flats - no tube to pinch between rim and rock, so you can run lower pressures safely.

• Lower pressures = more grip - the single biggest traction upgrade you can make on an MTB. Tubeless lets you drop to 22-24psi on trails without the bike folding underneath you.

• Slightly lighter - you lose ~200g per wheel by ditching tubes (sealant weighs ~100g back). • Lower rolling resistance - no tube friction inside the tyre. Modest but real.

The catches • Initial setup is a faff - tape, valves, sealant, a big burst of air to seat the bead. A track pump usually does it; sometimes you need a compressor or a "booster" pump.

• Sealant dries up every 3-6 months and needs topping up. • Big sidewall cuts can defeat the sealant and you'll need a plug or (worst case) a tube to limp home.

Your actual question - is it worth it for you? Your XR5 Team Issue tyres are already tubeless-ready (aramid bead, TR marking). Your Line Comp 30 rims are tubeless-compatible. So you're 80% of the way there - you just need tape, valves, and sealant. About £30-40 of bits.

Will pumping up the tubed tyres and flicking the shock to firm solve your immediate road-comfort problem? Yes, mostly. That's the right first move. Do that this weekend.

But long-term, on an MTB you ride off-road half the time, tubeless is one of those upgrades you do once and never go back. The grip improvement on trails alone is worth it, never mind the puncture protection.

Order of operations: pressures + climb switch now (free). Tubeless conversion next time you're servicing the bike or fitting new tyres.

 

[skcrip]

@skcrip - good question, and no, you don't strictly need it. But here's what tubeless actually does and why most of us bother. What tubeless is

Instead of an inner tube inside the tyre, the tyre seals directly against the rim. You pour liquid latex sealant (Stan's, Muc-Off, Peaty's etc.) inside, inflate, and the sealant plugs any tiny gaps. When you get a puncture, the sealant squirts into the hole and seals it within seconds - often without you even noticing.

Why people do it • Punctures self-seal - thorns, small cuts, snake-bites from rocks. The sealant deals with them mid-ride.

• No pinch flats - no tube to pinch between rim and rock, so you can run lower pressures safely.

• Lower pressures = more grip - the single biggest traction upgrade you can make on an MTB. Tubeless lets you drop to 22-24psi on trails without the bike folding underneath you.

• Slightly lighter - you lose ~200g per wheel by ditching tubes (sealant weighs ~100g back). • Lower rolling resistance - no tube friction inside the tyre. Modest but real.

The catches • Initial setup is a faff - tape, valves, sealant, a big burst of air to seat the bead. A track pump usually does it; sometimes you need a compressor or a "booster" pump.

• Sealant dries up every 3-6 months and needs topping up. • Big sidewall cuts can defeat the sealant and you'll need a plug or (worst case) a tube to limp home.

Your actual question - is it worth it for you? Your XR5 Team Issue tyres are already tubeless-ready (aramid bead, TR marking). Your Line Comp 30 rims are tubeless-compatible. So you're 80% of the way there - you just need tape, valves, and sealant. About £30-40 of bits.

Will pumping up the tubed tyres and flicking the shock to firm solve your immediate road-comfort problem? Yes, mostly. That's the right first move. Do that this weekend.

But long-term, on an MTB you ride off-road half the time, tubeless is one of those upgrades you do once and never go back. The grip improvement on trails alone is worth it, never mind the puncture protection.

Order of operations: pressures + climb switch now (free). Tubeless conversion next time you're servicing the bike or fitting new tyres.

Thanks, and just to check, does being able to run low pressures actually help me if I have to optimise to harder surfaces?

 

[Greg Watts]

Thanks, and just to check, does being able to run low pressures actually help me if I have to optimise to harder surfaces?

@skcrip - good question, and it's actually worth answering properly. The short version: no, low pressures don't help you on smooth hard surfaces.

There's a common misconception that lower pressure means more rolling resistance everywhere - on a smooth road, that's actually true. Increasing tyre pressure decreases rolling resistance on smooth terrain, because there's less tyre surface touching the ground and adding friction.

So for your 50/50 use case, tubeless isn't buying you lower pressure on the road sections - it's buying you flexibility. Here's the actual benefit split:

• On road/hardpack: pump them up. For mostly smooth terrain or hardpack, add 2 - 3 PSI from your baseline for reduced rolling resistance.

With a 2.5" tyre on tarmac, aim for 28 - 30psi rear, 26 - 28psi front. • On trails: drop back to 22 - 24psi and suddenly the tyre grips properly.

With a tube, going below 30psi on rough terrain risks pinch flats. Tubeless eliminates this risk entirely - you can safely run 20 - 25psi even on rocky trails.

So the real win tubeless gives you for your riding is this: you can pump up to road pressure for the tarmac bits, then drop 6 - 8psi at the trailhead without worrying about pinch flats. With tubes, that lower trail pressure carries real puncture risk.

If you're spending equal time on both surfaces and can be bothered to adjust pressure between them - tubeless earns its keep. If you're going to pick one pressure and leave it: stick with ~28psi and move on.