Scott Ransom eRide 920 battery rattle

th3c0d3r

Member
Sep 13, 2021
24
8
Romania
I have a Scott Ransom eRide 920 2021 bought in December, this weekend I went to an enduro training camp and have been doing lots of jumps and lots of technical stuff that I haven't done before.
Sunday I noticed the battery began to rattle, since I have bought the bike I noticed that the lock hub wasn't centered with the hole in the frame, I tried to fix it on the trail and it improved but not by much.
Is there a guide available on how to mount the battery lock & support (the part with the connector) properly so they don't rattle and stay in place?
 

Rusty

E*POWAH BOSS
Jul 17, 2019
1,513
1,673
New Zealand
1657000600577.png
 

th3c0d3r

Member
Sep 13, 2021
24
8
Romania
Thank you for the info, but I have no Scott (or other ebike) dealers within reasonable driving distance and that tool is over 100euros which seems a bit much for what it offers.
Is there another way I can do this myself? Or maybe a DIY version of that tool?
 

Rusty

E*POWAH BOSS
Jul 17, 2019
1,513
1,673
New Zealand
Is there another way I can do this myself? Or maybe a DIY version of that tool?
Possibly knock something up with a piece of wood I expect - at least to get a quick reference.
Cut it the length of the battery then you can make allowances for the fittings.
 

Sijmes

Member
Sep 22, 2018
126
48
Netherlands
Thank you for the info, but I have no Scott (or other ebike) dealers within reasonable driving distance and that tool is over 100euros which seems a bit much for what it offers.
Is there another way I can do this myself? Or maybe a DIY version of that tool?
How did you get on ?
 

th3c0d3r

Member
Sep 13, 2021
24
8
Romania
Well, the rattle seemed to be headset which got f*cked on a minor crash. That really annoyed me, I bought a new headset but, since I packed the old one with grease it's not making so much noise and I'll probably replace it over the winter.

Regarding the battery issue, I have tried various ways to set it up properly, the best I've come so far is with the battery itself.
You loosen the bolts that keep the locking mechanism in place and push everything down, then place the battery on the bottom support (like you usually do when putting it the bike) and begin to slide it in slowly, at this point you have to turn the key so the battery can slide into place.
The battery will push the support up as you slide it in, after it is beyond the lock (that requires you to turn the key) you push it a little further (2-3mms) then stop, you do NOT want to push the little clip that keeps battery in the "intermediary" position all the way in since your battery will fall the next time you unlock, instead of hanging on that little clip (don't ask me how I found this out). Now tighten the screws a bit and remove the battery.
It's possible that at this time the battery is too tight and it might not fit smoothly, you need to mark this position (with tape/marker/etc) and just move the lock a bit (1-2mm) up.
There's a bit of trial and error but you should get it on in like 10 minutes, always pay attention so that the battery doesn't fall off the frame when you unlock it with the key and it stays in that intermediary position hanging by the clip.
Once you're happy on how it sits tighten the screws, if the battery cover doesn't sit right with the frame now, you can partially unscrew the six cover screws (with the battery mounted on the bike) and slide the cover so it's flush with the frame then re-tighten them.
I hope this helps.
 

Sijmes

Member
Sep 22, 2018
126
48
Netherlands
Well, the rattle seemed to be headset which got f*cked on a minor crash. That really annoyed me, I bought a new headset but, since I packed the old one with grease it's not making so much noise and I'll probably replace it over the winter.

Regarding the battery issue, I have tried various ways to set it up properly, the best I've come so far is with the battery itself.
You loosen the bolts that keep the locking mechanism in place and push everything down, then place the battery on the bottom support (like you usually do when putting it the bike) and begin to slide it in slowly, at this point you have to turn the key so the battery can slide into place.
The battery will push the support up as you slide it in, after it is beyond the lock (that requires you to turn the key) you push it a little further (2-3mms) then stop, you do NOT want to push the little clip that keeps battery in the "intermediary" position all the way in since your battery will fall the next time you unlock, instead of hanging on that little clip (don't ask me how I found this out). Now tighten the screws a bit and remove the battery.
It's possible that at this time the battery is too tight and it might not fit smoothly, you need to mark this position (with tape/marker/etc) and just move the lock a bit (1-2mm) up.
There's a bit of trial and error but you should get it on in like 10 minutes, always pay attention so that the battery doesn't fall off the frame when you unlock it with the key and it stays in that intermediary position hanging by the clip.
Once you're happy on how it sits tighten the screws, if the battery cover doesn't sit right with the frame now, you can partially unscrew the six cover screws (with the battery mounted on the bike) and slide the cover so it's flush with the frame then re-tighten them.
I hope this helps.
I did my focus with trial and error too. Mine had play because the hinge pin was actually bent. I was able to straighten it in the vice. A little play allows this to bend because of the harsh banging back and forth.

IMG_20220707_204116.jpg
 

mastakilla

Member
Apr 25, 2020
153
51
usa
Well, the rattle seemed to be headset which got f*cked on a minor crash. That really annoyed me, I bought a new headset but, since I packed the old one with grease it's not making so much noise and I'll probably replace it over the winter.

Regarding the battery issue, I have tried various ways to set it up properly, the best I've come so far is with the battery itself.
You loosen the bolts that keep the locking mechanism in place and push everything down, then place the battery on the bottom support (like you usually do when putting it the bike) and begin to slide it in slowly, at this point you have to turn the key so the battery can slide into place.
The battery will push the support up as you slide it in, after it is beyond the lock (that requires you to turn the key) you push it a little further (2-3mms) then stop, you do NOT want to push the little clip that keeps battery in the "intermediary" position all the way in since your battery will fall the next time you unlock, instead of hanging on that little clip (don't ask me how I found this out). Now tighten the screws a bit and remove the battery.
It's possible that at this time the battery is too tight and it might not fit smoothly, you need to mark this position (with tape/marker/etc) and just move the lock a bit (1-2mm) up.
There's a bit of trial and error but you should get it on in like 10 minutes, always pay attention so that the battery doesn't fall off the frame when you unlock it with the key and it stays in that intermediary position hanging by the clip.
Once you're happy on how it sits tighten the screws, if the battery cover doesn't sit right with the frame now, you can partially unscrew the six cover screws (with the battery mounted on the bike) and slide the cover so it's flush with the frame then re-tighten them.
I hope this helps.
I have been struggling with battery alignment on my ransom since i got it. I am not sure I totally understand your explanation though. Can you shoot a youtube video of your procedure?

I cannot get it the battery to both fit in and also at the same time catch on the intermediary clip on removal.

I would love to see how you have solved the problem, it has been a source of frustration for me.
 

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