Out with the SRAM codes in with....

Peter1979

Member
Jun 7, 2021
75
27
South West uk
My SRAM codes are on their way out the door and in with a pair of Shimano Saints.
Question is, how hard will they be to fit myself? I've installed Shimano brakes on my hardtail, but it wasn't internally routed and there's now motor.
Any tips/advice or shall I suck up the £100 I was quoted to fit them at my LBS?

Stealth ad - perfectly fine pair of SRAM code R brakes for sale 🤣
 

BrentD

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2020
168
133
New Zealand
I've just binned the SRAM Guide RS Carbons on my S-Works Enduro. You'll need a bleed kit to complete the installation of the rear brake as the hose needs to be detached to thread through the frame. Bonus is you'll have a bleed kit for ongoing maintenance.

It was my first time fitting hydraulic brakes myself and I found it pretty straightforward after looking up a video on YouTube (GMBN if I recall correctly) on how to do it.
 
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RustyIron

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Jun 5, 2021
1,477
2,346
La Habra, California
For me, the most challenging part is getting an adapter that places the caliper perfectly on the rotor. I like the pads to track exactly one RCH below the outside edge of the rotor. The pads can NOT be above the outside edge. I've been known to take an existing adapter, and put in the milling machine to get it just right.
 

Peter1979

Member
Jun 7, 2021
75
27
South West uk
For me, the most challenging part is getting an adapter that places the caliper perfectly on the rotor. I like the pads to track exactly one RCH below the outside edge of the rotor. The pads can NOT be above the outside edge. I've been known to take an existing adapter, and put in the milling machine to get it just right.
This sounds a bit more complicated than I was hoping for!
 

Planemo

E*POWAH Elite
Mar 12, 2021
575
660
Essex UK
Can I not just use the adaptors that I currently have for the SRAM code brakes? I'll be using the same rotors.

I think what Rusty is saying is that not all calipers, spacers and even swing arm bosses are made equal. And he's right.

One or a combination of all 3 can easily make a mm of difference, and if that 1mm puts the pad outside the outer edge of the disc it's no good. Just check it to be sure. The pad ending up a little inside the edge of the disc is OK, far better than outside, but ideally you want the edge just about bang on.
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
331
254
DK
You guys are overcomplicating things for a dude who just want to change his brakes. The finer points of adjusting 1mm of pad on the rotor is lost here. There might be 1mm of pad sticking above the current rotor for what we know.
Know your audience.


Dude try doing it yourself. You can't use the same hoses because different oil.
Easiest way I know is to attach a wire to the old hose and pull it through the frame, then attach the new hose to the same wire and pull it through.
Then get a bleed kit for Shimano brakes and bleed it.
Then worry about mm on the rotors if there even is a problem.
 
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Peter1979

Member
Jun 7, 2021
75
27
South West uk
All done now guys. Yeah I think some of the guidance above was over complicating things a little but some good info anyway.
To be honest it took me a loooooong time to get the brakes fitted. First issue was not having a T20 driver for the motor mounting screws. Second issue was not having the tool to remove the cranks. Managed to borrow a T20 and left the cranks on during installation. Getting the rear hose through the motor housing and frame was hard even with a bit of wire to help. Once done getting the battery back in took ages. But it's all done now and feeling great. Much happier with them than the Codes.
 

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